The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

Recommendations

Info

During the 1960s and early 1970s, expeditions to the Kangchenjunga-Janak region were limited mostly to Japanese exploratory teams to the peaks northwest of the Kangchenjunga massif and Indian expeditions to peaks in the Kabru range along the Sikkim border south of Kangchenjunga. More teams went into the region beginning in the mid-1970s. From 1984 to 1994 several very large teams accounted for much of the activity: a 36-person Japanese traverse team to the four summits of Kangchenjunga in 1984; a 31-person British military team to Nepal Peak and Kirat Chuli in 1985; a 62-person Indian team to Kangchenjunga in 1987; a 32-person Russian traverse team to Kang chenjunga; and a 27-person Indian team to the three Kabru border peaks in 1994. 1600 1400 1200 1000 800 600 400 200 0 1970 1971 1972 1973 1974 1975 Climbing Activity for the Khumbu-Rolwaling-Makalu Region (1970-2006) 1976 Chart C-5b: Climbing activity (members above base camp) for the Khumbu-Rolwaling-Makalu region from 1970-2006 The Khumbu-Rolwaling-Makalu region has had explosive growth with most of it on the commercial routes of Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, and Everest. But when these routes are subtracted out, the overall pattern is similar to the other regions with more activity in the 1980s, but at much higher numbers averaging between 200-400 climbers per year. During the last ten years, the Khumbu has been the easiest region to travel to and the safest in terms of Maoist interference with expeditions as very few rebels have operated successfully above the Lukla airstrip, the gateway into the Khumbu. Only in the Makalu and Rolwaling regions have expeditions been approached for “donations.” Other than a few American expeditions to Ganchempo and Urkinmang in the 1970s, the Langtang-Jugal area was mostly ignored until the 1980s. This region has no 8000ers except for Shishapangma, which is entirely in Tibet and was off limits to foreigners until 1980; thus there was no strong attraction to Langtang-Jugal for the 20 Analysis of Climbing Activity 1977 1978 1979 1980 1981 1982 1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 Members Above BC (All Routes) Members Above BC (w/o ACE Commercial Rtes) Trend (All Routes) Trend (w/o ACE Commercial Rtes) 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006
100 75 50 25 0 1970 1971 1972 1973 1974 1975 1976 1977 Climbing Activity for the Langtang-Jugal Region (1970-2006) 1978 1979 1980 1981 1982 1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 Chart C-5c: Climbing activity (members above base camp) for the Langtang-Jugal region from 1970-2006 more skilled climbers. The two most attractive peaks, Langtang Lirung (7227m) and Dorje Lhakpa (6966m), did not have their first ascents until 1978 and 1981, respectively. The most active year was 1982 when five Japanese teams went to Langtang-Jugal. Two of those teams (19 to Phurbi Chhyachu and 12 to Langsisa Ri) were very large by normal standards for the region as most teams tended to be small private groups of climbing friends. In 1990, the Nepal Mountaineering Police also mounted a large 19person training expedition to Ganchempo. Other than a strong autumn 1999 season, recent activity has been low. The Japanese were also very active in the Manaslu-Ganesh region from the 1950s to the early 1980s. After making the first ascent of Manaslu in 1956, the Japanese turned their attention to its neighboring peaks, Peak 29 and the Himalchuli’s, and then finally to the Ganesh peaks. Other European teams also joined in on expeditions to Ganesh Himal in the 1980s when activity to the region was at its highest. But since then, Ganesh has fallen out of favor as there have been only five teams during the last ten years (1996-2006). Expeditions to Manaslu peak itself have remained steady, as it is one of the coveted fourteen 8000m peaks, and actually reached a high-point of twelve teams in 1996, before subsiding a bit because of Maoist influence in the Gorkha area. The first teams that the Maoists began “taxing” were in-bound for Manaslu in 2000. The early 1980s were the most active period for the Annapurna-Damodar-Peri region with most expeditions going to the Annapurnas and Tilicho south of the Marshyangdi 1988 Members Above BC Trend (Members Above BC) 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 Analysis of Climbing Activity 21
Page 3 and 4: The Himalaya by the Numbers A Stati
Page 5: Contents Introduction . . . . . . .
Page 8 and 9: the first north-south traverses. Th
Page 10 and 11: in the charts, 2 or 3-period moving
Page 12 and 13: 400 300 200 100 0 2000 1800 1600 14
Page 14 and 15: 2000 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000 800 6
Page 16 and 17: government starting in 1997 opened
Page 18 and 19: 500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100
Page 20 and 21: them. In fact during the late 1980s
Page 24 and 25: 250 200 150 100 50 0 250 200 150 10
Page 26 and 27: 100 75 50 25 0 1970 1971 1972 1973
Page 28 and 29: a few brave and hardy souls are wil
Page 30 and 31: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 32 and 33: Charts C-7a-c show the seasonal pat
Page 34 and 35: 1000 800 600 400 200 100 80 60 40 2
Page 36 and 37: closeness of the Himalaya. Many Jap
Page 38 and 39: For all peaks, the average team mem
Page 40 and 41: Periodically, massive storms fueled
Page 42 and 43: 40 Analysis of Climbing Activity
Page 44 and 45: three most popular peaks, Ama Dabla
Page 46 and 47: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 11.7 ANN1 (121/
Page 48 and 49: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 7.7 11.7 T
Page 50 and 51: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 40 35 30 25
Page 52 and 53: The results indicate that the sprin
Page 54 and 55: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 30 25 20 15
Page 56 and 57: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 70 60 50 40
Page 58 and 59: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 80 70 60 5
Page 60 and 61: 100 60 50 40 30 20 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 62 and 63: Ascents by Citizenship Table A-24 s
Page 64 and 65: Ascents by Gender Table and Chart A
Page 66 and 67: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Chart A-27: Asc
Page 68 and 69: had a hard time making her own plat
Page 70 and 71: 60 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5
Page 72 and 73:
900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 74 and 75:
60 50 40 30 20 10 0 80 70 60 50 40
Page 76 and 77:
70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 60 50 40 30
Page 78 and 79:
Peak ID Peak Name Height Region 76
Page 80 and 81:
Members have higher percentage of a
Page 82 and 83:
considerable effort through deep sn
Page 84 and 85:
3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 2.5
Page 86 and 87:
3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 0 0 The
Page 88 and 89:
Deadliest Peaks for Members The nex
Page 90 and 91:
when five Austrians and their Sherp
Page 92 and 93:
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 4.5 4.0 3.5
Page 94 and 95:
days in 1975 (the first verified as
Page 96 and 97:
Whether significant or not, the dea
Page 98 and 99:
and higher spring death rates on Ma
Page 100 and 101:
of an autumn 1992 Makalu II expedit
Page 102 and 103:
a climb. For hired, falls were the
Page 104 and 105:
Summit and the Hillary Step (9 of 2
Page 106 and 107:
summer season as very few climbers
Page 108 and 109:
2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 106 Death A
Page 110 and 111:
100 20 18 16 14 12 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 112 and 113:
Deaths by Falling While avalanching
Page 114 and 115:
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 16 14 12 10
Page 116 and 117:
Time of Day All Peaks 6000ers All F
Page 118 and 119:
Deaths by Physiological Causes Phys
Page 120 and 121:
Deaths by Age Groups Table and Char
Page 122 and 123:
Deaths by Expedition Years Chart D-
Page 124 and 125:
All Peaks Everest Citizenship Above
Page 126 and 127:
2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 10.0 9.0 8.
Page 128 and 129:
Table and Chart D-42 below show mem
Page 130 and 131:
Table and Chart D-44 below show mem
Page 132 and 133:
Everest, Spring 1996 A total of eig
Page 134 and 135:
On the evening of 6th it started to
Page 136 and 137:
camp at 7500m but there was nothing
Page 138 and 139:
Peak ID Peak Name 136 Appendix A Al
Page 140 and 141:
Page 142 and 143:
Page 144 and 145:
Page 146 and 147:
Page 148 and 149:
146 Appendix A
Page 150 and 151:
In Chart D-4, the sample sizes are
Page 152 and 153:
90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 32.2 2
Page 154 and 155:
45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 11.9 4.
Page 156 and 157:
6 5 4 3 2 1 0 1.16 0.43 0.13 BARU (
Page 158 and 159:
16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 2.42 1.80 700
Page 160 and 161:
30 25 20 15 10 5 0 1.29 0.09 0.41 1
Page 162 and 163:
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 3.04 0.0 LSHR (0/
Page 164:
5.0 4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0
show all

The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

Create successful ePaper yourself

Delete template?

Save as template?