The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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60 50 40 30 20 10 0 11.7 ANN1 (121/ 1037) 16.3 MAKA (208/ 1273) 18.1 MANA (228/ 1259) Chart A-3: Member ascent rates for popular peaks from 1950-2006 with more than 750 members above base camp (the ascent rate is above the column bar; the ascent / above BC counts are below) The columns outlined in black in the above chart and in the three charts that follow for the most popular 6000ers, 7000ers, and 8000ers for members represent peaks or groups of peaks that statistically have either significantly higher (in blue) or lower (in red) ascent rates than the mean ascent rate for all peaks (in black). Statistical significance means that there is less than a 5% probability that the result occurred by chance. For the non-outlined peaks, the ascent rates can be considered as only anecdotal evidence of higher or lower ascent rates than the mean rate for all peaks. Chart A-5 shows the 7000m peaks with 100 or more members above base camp. Himlung and Pumori have the highest member ascent rates for the 7000ers and are often attempted by commercial expeditions with Himlung being especially popular for French groups (Pumori also has an above average death rate). Many commercial groups also attempt Baruntse and Tilicho. Gangapurna, Makalu II, Jannu, and Tilicho do not have significantly higher ascent rates than the mean for all 7000ers since their rates are very close to the mean. Chart A-6 shows member ascent rates for the 8000m peaks with 150 or more members above base camp. Cho Oyu by far enjoys the highest member ascent rate (37.8%), while the lowest ascent rates are on Lhotse Shar (7.7%) and Annapurna (11.7%). Interestingly for the 8000m peaks, Cho Oyu is also the safest, while Lhotse Shar and Annapurna are the most dangerous (see the chapter Death Analysis). Kangchenjunga does not have a significantly lower ascent rate than the mean for all 8000ers since its rate is very close to the mean. Yalung Kang with only 174 members above base camp and Lhotse with 945 members above base camp are still too close to the mean to be significant. 44 Ascent Analysis 19.1 DHA1 (294/ 1538) Member Ascent Rates for Popular Peaks (1950-2006) 21.3 All 7000ers (1746/ 8197) 22.4 EVER (1773/ 7928) 22.7 KANG (183/ 805) 24.8 BARU (229/ 922) 24.9 All 8000ers (5064/ 20365) 26.7 LHOT (252/ 945) 27.9 All Peaks (9746/ 34920) 32.3 PUMO (405/ 1254) 37.8 CHOY (1859/ 4920) 46.2 All 6000ers (2936/ 6358) 54.4 AMAD (1781/ 3275)
80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 22.6 25.0 25.5 28.1 Member Ascent Rates for Popular 6000m Peaks (1950-2006) 28.3 30.6 NUMB LEON THAM TUKU GANC KOTA KGUR TAWO LSIS KTEG DORJ All 6000ers xAMAD 2.8 6.6 8.9 32.0 32.4 33.9 35.5 Chart A-4: Member ascent rates for selected 6000m peaks with 50+ members above base camp from 1950-2006 9.0 35.7 37.5 40.0 46.0 46.2 RATH LAMJ All 6000ers Member Ascent Rates for Popular 7000m Peaks (1950-2006) 9.2 11.8 12.9 15.0 15.2 21.3 GAUR ANN2 NUPT HIME ANN3 DHA4 ANN4 ANNS LANG All 7000ers Chart A-5: Member ascent rates for selected 7000m peaks with 100+ members above base camp from 1950-2006 22.0 22.2 22.2 22.5 24.8 48.2 50.0 54.4 72.5 CHOL BHRI AMAD DHAM 29.4 31.5 32.3 32.5 TILI MAK2 GANG JANU BARU GLAC PUTH PUMO HIML Ascent Analysis 45
Page 3 and 4: The Himalaya by the Numbers A Stati
Page 5: Contents Introduction . . . . . . .
Page 8 and 9: the first north-south traverses. Th
Page 10 and 11: in the charts, 2 or 3-period moving
Page 12 and 13: 400 300 200 100 0 2000 1800 1600 14
Page 14 and 15: 2000 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000 800 6
Page 16 and 17: government starting in 1997 opened
Page 18 and 19: 500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100
Page 20 and 21: them. In fact during the late 1980s
Page 22 and 23: During the 1960s and early 1970s, e
Page 24 and 25: 250 200 150 100 50 0 250 200 150 10
Page 26 and 27: 100 75 50 25 0 1970 1971 1972 1973
Page 28 and 29: a few brave and hardy souls are wil
Page 30 and 31: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 32 and 33: Charts C-7a-c show the seasonal pat
Page 34 and 35: 1000 800 600 400 200 100 80 60 40 2
Page 36 and 37: closeness of the Himalaya. Many Jap
Page 38 and 39: For all peaks, the average team mem
Page 40 and 41: Periodically, massive storms fueled
Page 42 and 43: 40 Analysis of Climbing Activity
Page 44 and 45: three most popular peaks, Ama Dabla
Page 48 and 49: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 7.7 11.7 T
Page 50 and 51: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 40 35 30 25
Page 52 and 53: The results indicate that the sprin
Page 54 and 55: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 30 25 20 15
Page 56 and 57: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 70 60 50 40
Page 58 and 59: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 80 70 60 5
Page 60 and 61: 100 60 50 40 30 20 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 62 and 63: Ascents by Citizenship Table A-24 s
Page 64 and 65: Ascents by Gender Table and Chart A
Page 66 and 67: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Chart A-27: Asc
Page 68 and 69: had a hard time making her own plat
Page 70 and 71: 60 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5
Page 72 and 73: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 74 and 75: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 80 70 60 50 40
Page 76 and 77: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 60 50 40 30
Page 78 and 79: Peak ID Peak Name Height Region 76
Page 80 and 81: Members have higher percentage of a
Page 82 and 83: considerable effort through deep sn
Page 84 and 85: 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 2.5
Page 86 and 87: 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 0 0 The
Page 88 and 89: Deadliest Peaks for Members The nex
Page 90 and 91: when five Austrians and their Sherp
Page 92 and 93: 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 4.5 4.0 3.5
Page 94 and 95: days in 1975 (the first verified as
Page 96 and 97:
Whether significant or not, the dea
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and higher spring death rates on Ma
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of an autumn 1992 Makalu II expedit
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a climb. For hired, falls were the
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Summit and the Hillary Step (9 of 2
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summer season as very few climbers
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2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 106 Death A
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100 20 18 16 14 12 10 90 80 70 60 5
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Deaths by Falling While avalanching
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10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 16 14 12 10
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Time of Day All Peaks 6000ers All F
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Deaths by Physiological Causes Phys
Page 120 and 121:
Deaths by Age Groups Table and Char
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Deaths by Expedition Years Chart D-
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All Peaks Everest Citizenship Above
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2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 10.0 9.0 8.
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Table and Chart D-42 below show mem
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Table and Chart D-44 below show mem
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Everest, Spring 1996 A total of eig
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On the evening of 6th it started to
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camp at 7500m but there was nothing
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Peak ID Peak Name 136 Appendix A Al
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Page 144 and 145:
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146 Appendix A
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In Chart D-4, the sample sizes are
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90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 32.2 2
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45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 11.9 4.
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6 5 4 3 2 1 0 1.16 0.43 0.13 BARU (
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16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 2.42 1.80 700
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30 25 20 15 10 5 0 1.29 0.09 0.41 1
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8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 3.04 0.0 LSHR (0/
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5.0 4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0
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The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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