The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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Cover Photo: Annapurna South Face at sunrise (Richard Salisbury) © Copyright 2007 by Richard Salisbury and Elizabeth Hawley No portion of this book may be reproduced and/or redistributed without the written permission of the authors. 2
Contents Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Analysis of Climbing Activity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Yearly Activity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Regional Activity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Seasonal Activity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Activity by Age and Gender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 Activity by Citizenship . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 Team Composition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Expedition Results . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Ascent Analysis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 Ascents by Altitude Range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 Popular Peaks by Altitude Range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 Ascents by Climbing Season . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Ascents by Expedition Years . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 Ascents by Age Groups . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Ascents by Citizenship . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 Ascents by Gender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62 Ascents by Team Composition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 Average Expedition Duration and Days to Summit . . . . . . . . . . . .70 Oxygen and the 8000ers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76 Death Analysis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 Deaths by Peak Altitude Ranges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 Deaths on Popular Peaks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .84 Deadliest Peaks for Members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 Deadliest Peaks for Hired Personnel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89 Deaths by Geographical Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92 Deaths by Climbing Season . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93 Altitudes of Death . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96 Causes of Death . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Avalanche Deaths . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .102 Deaths by Falling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Deaths by Physiological Causes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116 Deaths by Age Groups . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118 Deaths by Expedition Years . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 Deaths by Citizenship . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Deaths by Gender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123 Deaths by Team Composition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125 Major Accidents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .129 Appendix A: Peak Summary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .135 Appendix B: Supplemental Charts and Tables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .147 3
Page 3: The Himalaya by the Numbers A Stati
Page 8 and 9: the first north-south traverses. Th
Page 10 and 11: in the charts, 2 or 3-period moving
Page 12 and 13: 400 300 200 100 0 2000 1800 1600 14
Page 14 and 15: 2000 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000 800 6
Page 16 and 17: government starting in 1997 opened
Page 18 and 19: 500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100
Page 20 and 21: them. In fact during the late 1980s
Page 22 and 23: During the 1960s and early 1970s, e
Page 24 and 25: 250 200 150 100 50 0 250 200 150 10
Page 26 and 27: 100 75 50 25 0 1970 1971 1972 1973
Page 28 and 29: a few brave and hardy souls are wil
Page 30 and 31: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 32 and 33: Charts C-7a-c show the seasonal pat
Page 34 and 35: 1000 800 600 400 200 100 80 60 40 2
Page 36 and 37: closeness of the Himalaya. Many Jap
Page 38 and 39: For all peaks, the average team mem
Page 40 and 41: Periodically, massive storms fueled
Page 42 and 43: 40 Analysis of Climbing Activity
Page 44 and 45: three most popular peaks, Ama Dabla
Page 46 and 47: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 11.7 ANN1 (121/
Page 48 and 49: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 7.7 11.7 T
Page 50 and 51: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 40 35 30 25
Page 52 and 53: The results indicate that the sprin
Page 54 and 55:
70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 30 25 20 15
Page 56 and 57:
70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 70 60 50 40
Page 58 and 59:
40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 80 70 60 5
Page 60 and 61:
100 60 50 40 30 20 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 62 and 63:
Ascents by Citizenship Table A-24 s
Page 64 and 65:
Ascents by Gender Table and Chart A
Page 66 and 67:
60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Chart A-27: Asc
Page 68 and 69:
had a hard time making her own plat
Page 70 and 71:
60 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5
Page 72 and 73:
900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 74 and 75:
60 50 40 30 20 10 0 80 70 60 50 40
Page 76 and 77:
70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 60 50 40 30
Page 78 and 79:
Peak ID Peak Name Height Region 76
Page 80 and 81:
Members have higher percentage of a
Page 82 and 83:
considerable effort through deep sn
Page 84 and 85:
3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 2.5
Page 86 and 87:
3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 0 0 The
Page 88 and 89:
Deadliest Peaks for Members The nex
Page 90 and 91:
when five Austrians and their Sherp
Page 92 and 93:
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 4.5 4.0 3.5
Page 94 and 95:
days in 1975 (the first verified as
Page 96 and 97:
Whether significant or not, the dea
Page 98 and 99:
and higher spring death rates on Ma
Page 100 and 101:
of an autumn 1992 Makalu II expedit
Page 102 and 103:
a climb. For hired, falls were the
Page 104 and 105:
Summit and the Hillary Step (9 of 2
Page 106 and 107:
summer season as very few climbers
Page 108 and 109:
2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 106 Death A
Page 110 and 111:
100 20 18 16 14 12 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 112 and 113:
Deaths by Falling While avalanching
Page 114 and 115:
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 16 14 12 10
Page 116 and 117:
Time of Day All Peaks 6000ers All F
Page 118 and 119:
Deaths by Physiological Causes Phys
Page 120 and 121:
Deaths by Age Groups Table and Char
Page 122 and 123:
Deaths by Expedition Years Chart D-
Page 124 and 125:
All Peaks Everest Citizenship Above
Page 126 and 127:
2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 10.0 9.0 8.
Page 128 and 129:
Table and Chart D-42 below show mem
Page 130 and 131:
Table and Chart D-44 below show mem
Page 132 and 133:
Everest, Spring 1996 A total of eig
Page 134 and 135:
On the evening of 6th it started to
Page 136 and 137:
camp at 7500m but there was nothing
Page 138 and 139:
Peak ID Peak Name 136 Appendix A Al
Page 140 and 141:
Page 142 and 143:
Page 144 and 145:
Page 146 and 147:
Page 148 and 149:
146 Appendix A
Page 150 and 151:
In Chart D-4, the sample sizes are
Page 152 and 153:
90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 32.2 2
Page 154 and 155:
45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 11.9 4.
Page 156 and 157:
6 5 4 3 2 1 0 1.16 0.43 0.13 BARU (
Page 158 and 159:
16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 2.42 1.80 700
Page 160 and 161:
30 25 20 15 10 5 0 1.29 0.09 0.41 1
Page 162 and 163:
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 3.04 0.0 LSHR (0/
Page 164:
5.0 4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0
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