The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

3.0
2.5
2.0
1.5
1.0
0.5
0.0
0 0
The death rates for Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, and Everest are lower than the other
peaks in their respective altitude ranges suggesting that they are relatively safer.
But this appearance of safety may be due to the fact that the vast majority of the
climbers are on the easiest and safest routes and in many cases under the supervision
of experienced commercial guides or Sherpas. During the 1950-1989 period before
commercial climbing become common and when other more challenging routes were
being attempted in higher proportions, the death rates on Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, and
Everest were much higher.
Deaths on Popular Peaks
Table and Chart D-3 give the death rates for the most popular peaks in Nepal, those
peaks with more than 750 members above base camp (roughly equivalent to 75 or more
expeditions).
Ama Dablam and Cho Oyu are significantly safer for members than the mean (average)
of 1.64% for all peaks (in black), while Everest is very close to the mean for all peak.
For two other peaks that are often climbed commercially, Baruntse is very safe at
0.43% while Pumori is more dangerous at 2.55%.
84 Death Analysis
Death Rates by Peak Altitude (1990-2006)
(with and w/o Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu and Everest commercial routes)
(and without 2005 Kang Guru accident)
0.30
0.56
0.33
0.78
1.03
2.24
6000-6499m 6500-6999m 7000-7499m 7500-7999m 8000-8499m 8500-8850m
Members (1990-2006) with All Routes Hired (1990-2006) with All Routes
Members (1990-2006) w/o ACE Com Routes Hired (1990-2006) w/o ACE Com Routes
Trend (Members (1990-2006) with All Routes) Trend (Hired (1990-2006) with All Routes)
Trend (Members (1990-2006) w/o ACE Com Routes) Trend (Hired (1990-2006) w/o ACE Com Routes)
Chart D-2: Member and hired death rates from 1990-2006 with
Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, and Everest commercial routes separated out
and excluding the 2005 Kang Guru accident
(the dashed moving averages are inserted from Chart D-1b)
1.48
0
1.22
1.32
2.25
2.77
1.44
0.69
1.51
0.80