The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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Ascents by Citizenship Table A-24 shows member ascent rates by citizenship for all peaks and Everest for those nationalities that had a substantial number of members above base camp (50 or more for all peaks and 20 or more for Everest). Citizens from countries that had fewer than the 50- or 20-member cutoff points are grouped into the “**All Others**” category. Citizens of Nepal and China are split into two groups: Sherpas/non-Sherpas and Tibetans/non-Tibetans, respectively, in order to differentiate the higher-altitude from the lower-altitude residents. Also for Nepalese Sherpas and Chinese Tibetans, the numbers above base camp include only those who were actual members of an expedition, not those who were hired as high-altitude assistants. For all peaks and Everest, the Sherpas and Tibetans performed much better than their countrymen as full members of expeditions, but the actual ascent rates of Tibetans may be somewhat suspect due to the lack of reliable information regarding whether they were actually full members or hired personnel since the climbing permits issued in China do not make this distinction. The Himalayan Database reasonably differentiates between members and hired personnel for foreign expeditions, but the data for the larger Chinese national expeditions are only estimates. The climbers from the former Soviet-bloc countries (e.g., USSR, Russia, Kazakh stan, Georgia, Ukraine) have done remarkably well since many expeditions from those countries have attempted only the 8000m peaks or difficult routes on the 7000m peaks; fewer have ventured to the 6000m peaks, most likely due to funding constraints that limits training expeditions to the Pamir and Caucasus mountain ranges in Russia. 60 Ascent Analysis
Citizenship All Peaks Everest Above BC Ascent Cnt Ascent Rate Citizenship Above BC Ascent Cnt Ascent Rate Kazakhstan 72 53 73.6 Kazakhstan 23 14 60.9 China (Tibetan) 204 129 63.2 China (Tibetan) 107 58 54.2 USSR 241 152 63.1 Mexico 52 26 50.0 Georgia 54 27 50.0 USSR 64 31 48.4 Ukraine 181 84 46.4 Slovenia 21 9 42.9 Russia 621 287 46.2 Malaysia 21 8 38.1 Iran 101 44 43.6 **All others** 278 102 36.7 Mexico 140 58 41.4 Russia 213 78 36.6 **All others** 622 253 40.7 Greece 25 9 36.0 New Zealand 452 178 39.4 Iran 34 12 35.3 Nepal (Sherpa) 224 84 37.5 New Zealand 134 43 32.1 Finland 64 23 35.9 S Africa 43 13 30.2 Switzerland 1480 515 34.8 Ukraine 30 9 30.0 Norway 198 68 34.3 W Germany 47 14 29.8 Denmark 108 37 34.3 Australia 145 43 29.7 S Africa 61 20 32.8 Norway 65 19 29.2 Chile 99 32 32.3 Nepal (Sherpa) 119 33 27.7 Germany 1339 425 31.7 USA 1237 342 27.6 Australia 606 190 31.4 Denmark 29 8 27.6 W Germany 712 218 30.6 India 374 95 25.4 USA 3618 1101 30.4 Bulgaria 42 10 23.8 Japan 4689 1342 28.6 Chile 55 13 23.6 Ireland 90 25 27.8 Ireland 35 8 22.9 France 2879 796 27.6 Canada 171 39 22.8 Austria 1271 337 26.5 Poland 91 20 22.0 Slovenia 369 97 26.3 Austria 126 25 19.8 Canada 550 142 25.8 Japan 687 134 19.5 Sweden 210 54 25.7 Sweden 80 15 18.8 Poland 869 223 25.7 UK 719 133 18.5 India 915 225 24.6 Switzerland 205 36 17.6 Greece 107 26 24.3 France 411 69 16.8 UK 2689 653 24.3 Brazil 42 7 16.7 Czech Republic 288 69 24.0 Italy 285 46 16.1 Colombia 51 12 23.5 Netherlands 75 11 14.7 Italy 1809 417 23.1 Spain 520 76 14.6 Belgium 268 59 22.0 S Korea 525 76 14.5 Nepal (non-Sherpa) 367 80 21.8 Taiwan 43 6 14.0 Spain 2291 490 21.4 Germany 113 15 13.3 Hungary 75 16 21.3 Yugoslavia 83 11 13.3 Brazil 65 13 20.0 Nepal (non-Sherpa) 116 15 12.9 Yugoslavia 438 86 19.6 Czech Republic 49 6 12.2 S Korea 1957 374 19.1 Belgium 60 7 11.7 Netherlands 416 79 19.0 Argentina 28 3 10.7 Taiwan 59 11 18.6 China (non-Tibetan) 181 19 10.5 Bulgaria 163 26 16.0 Indonesia 24 2 8.3 Czechoslovakia 317 50 15.8 Czechoslovakia 62 4 6.5 Slovakia 96 15 15.6 Hungary 39 1 2.6 Argentina 117 15 12.8 Indonesia 51 6 11.8 China (non-Tibetan) 257 30 11.7 Mean Ascent Rate 27.9 Mean Ascent Rate 22.4 Table A-24: Member ascents by citizenship from 1950-2006 (minimum 50 Above BC for all peaks, minimum 20 Above BC for Everest) (blue rows are above the mean ascent rate, black rows are below the mean ascent rate) Ascent Analysis 61
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The Himalaya by the Numbers A Stati
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Contents Introduction . . . . . . .
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the first north-south traverses. Th
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in the charts, 2 or 3-period moving
Page 12 and 13: 400 300 200 100 0 2000 1800 1600 14
Page 14 and 15: 2000 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000 800 6
Page 16 and 17: government starting in 1997 opened
Page 18 and 19: 500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100
Page 20 and 21: them. In fact during the late 1980s
Page 22 and 23: During the 1960s and early 1970s, e
Page 24 and 25: 250 200 150 100 50 0 250 200 150 10
Page 26 and 27: 100 75 50 25 0 1970 1971 1972 1973
Page 28 and 29: a few brave and hardy souls are wil
Page 30 and 31: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 32 and 33: Charts C-7a-c show the seasonal pat
Page 34 and 35: 1000 800 600 400 200 100 80 60 40 2
Page 36 and 37: closeness of the Himalaya. Many Jap
Page 38 and 39: For all peaks, the average team mem
Page 40 and 41: Periodically, massive storms fueled
Page 42 and 43: 40 Analysis of Climbing Activity
Page 44 and 45: three most popular peaks, Ama Dabla
Page 46 and 47: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 11.7 ANN1 (121/
Page 48 and 49: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 7.7 11.7 T
Page 50 and 51: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 40 35 30 25
Page 52 and 53: The results indicate that the sprin
Page 54 and 55: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 30 25 20 15
Page 56 and 57: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 70 60 50 40
Page 58 and 59: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 80 70 60 5
Page 60 and 61: 100 60 50 40 30 20 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 64 and 65: Ascents by Gender Table and Chart A
Page 66 and 67: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Chart A-27: Asc
Page 68 and 69: had a hard time making her own plat
Page 70 and 71: 60 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5
Page 72 and 73: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 74 and 75: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 80 70 60 50 40
Page 76 and 77: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 60 50 40 30
Page 78 and 79: Peak ID Peak Name Height Region 76
Page 80 and 81: Members have higher percentage of a
Page 82 and 83: considerable effort through deep sn
Page 84 and 85: 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 2.5
Page 86 and 87: 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 0 0 The
Page 88 and 89: Deadliest Peaks for Members The nex
Page 90 and 91: when five Austrians and their Sherp
Page 92 and 93: 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 4.5 4.0 3.5
Page 94 and 95: days in 1975 (the first verified as
Page 96 and 97: Whether significant or not, the dea
Page 98 and 99: and higher spring death rates on Ma
Page 100 and 101: of an autumn 1992 Makalu II expedit
Page 102 and 103: a climb. For hired, falls were the
Page 104 and 105: Summit and the Hillary Step (9 of 2
Page 106 and 107: summer season as very few climbers
Page 108 and 109: 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 106 Death A
Page 110 and 111: 100 20 18 16 14 12 10 90 80 70 60 5
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Deaths by Falling While avalanching
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10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 16 14 12 10
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Time of Day All Peaks 6000ers All F
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Deaths by Physiological Causes Phys
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Deaths by Age Groups Table and Char
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Deaths by Expedition Years Chart D-
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All Peaks Everest Citizenship Above
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2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 10.0 9.0 8.
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Table and Chart D-42 below show mem
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Table and Chart D-44 below show mem
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Everest, Spring 1996 A total of eig
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On the evening of 6th it started to
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camp at 7500m but there was nothing
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Peak ID Peak Name 136 Appendix A Al
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146 Appendix A
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In Chart D-4, the sample sizes are
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90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 32.2 2
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45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 11.9 4.
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6 5 4 3 2 1 0 1.16 0.43 0.13 BARU (
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16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 2.42 1.80 700
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30 25 20 15 10 5 0 1.29 0.09 0.41 1
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8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 3.04 0.0 LSHR (0/
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5.0 4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0
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