The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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camp at 7500m but there was nothing inside so he would have still had problems. Jim Findley of the American expedition led by David Hahn – June 4, 1998 Buick was “a determined man in all the wrong ways” and never changed his actions despite all advice from others on numerous occasions. Hahn: “he was extremely ignorant of the mountains and never could understand how they could kill him.” Hahn was one of the last to talk to Buick. Hahn, et al: he thought everyone else was doing the climb much too expensively and elaborately and he had great disdain for guides. He was convinced that in life and climbing Everest, you learn as you go along, but he took 72 hours to descend from North Col to ABC while Hahn’s client took 1-1/2 hours. Is it possible that he wanted to die on Everest? Nothing else makes sense. 134 Death Analysis
Appendix A: Peak Summary The table in this appendix summarizes the peak data for the period from 1950 to 2006. The columns are defined as follows: Peak ID – Peak ID used in The Himalayan Database Region – geographical region codes for peak location (see map below) Exp Cnt – number of expeditions to the peak … Above BC – number of members, women members, or hired personnel that went above base camp or advanced base camp … Smts – number of members, women members, or hired personnel that summited Mbr Smt Rate – success rate for members (Mbr Smts / Mbrs Above BC) … Deaths – number of members, women members, or hired personnel that died … Death Rate – death rate for members and hired (e.g., Mbr Deaths / Mbrs Above BC) Exp Days Avg. – average number of days for all expeditions to peak Suc Exp Days Avg. – average number of days for all successful expeditions to peak Smt Days Avg. – average number of days to summit for all successful expeditions to peak Min Smt Days – minimum number of days to first summit (fastest expedition) Max Smt Days – maximum number of days to first summit (slowest expedition) Descriptions of all expeditions to the peaks listed in this table along with their member biodata are available in The Himalayan Database. Nalakankar Changla Himal Api Himal Saipal Himal Kanjiroba Himal Kanti Himal Dhaulagiri Himal Mukut Himal Dhaulagiri I Mountaineering Regions in Nepal Annapurna I Annapurna Himal Damodar Himal Peri Himal Manaslu Manaslu Himal Ganesh Himal Langtang- Jugal Himal Khumbu- Makalu Himal Rolwaling Himal 1 - Kangchenjunga-Janak 2 - Khumbu-Rolwaling-Makalu 3 - Langtang-Jugal 4 - Manaslu-Ganesh 5 - Annapurna-Damodar-Peri 6 - Dhaulagiri-Mukut 7 - Far West-Kanjiroba Cho Oyu Everest Makalu Kangchen- junga Himal Janak Himal Kang- chen- junga Appendix A 135
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The Himalaya by the Numbers A Stati
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Contents Introduction . . . . . . .
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the first north-south traverses. Th
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in the charts, 2 or 3-period moving
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400 300 200 100 0 2000 1800 1600 14
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2000 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000 800 6
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government starting in 1997 opened
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500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100
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them. In fact during the late 1980s
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During the 1960s and early 1970s, e
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250 200 150 100 50 0 250 200 150 10
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100 75 50 25 0 1970 1971 1972 1973
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a few brave and hardy souls are wil
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900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
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Charts C-7a-c show the seasonal pat
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1000 800 600 400 200 100 80 60 40 2
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closeness of the Himalaya. Many Jap
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For all peaks, the average team mem
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Periodically, massive storms fueled
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40 Analysis of Climbing Activity
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three most popular peaks, Ama Dabla
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60 50 40 30 20 10 0 11.7 ANN1 (121/
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40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 7.7 11.7 T
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70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 40 35 30 25
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The results indicate that the sprin
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70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 30 25 20 15
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70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 70 60 50 40
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40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 80 70 60 5
Page 60 and 61:
100 60 50 40 30 20 10 90 80 70 60 5
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Ascents by Citizenship Table A-24 s
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Ascents by Gender Table and Chart A
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60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Chart A-27: Asc
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had a hard time making her own plat
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60 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5
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900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
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60 50 40 30 20 10 0 80 70 60 50 40
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70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 60 50 40 30
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Peak ID Peak Name Height Region 76
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Members have higher percentage of a
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considerable effort through deep sn
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3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 2.5
Page 86 and 87: 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 0 0 The
Page 88 and 89: Deadliest Peaks for Members The nex
Page 90 and 91: when five Austrians and their Sherp
Page 92 and 93: 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 4.5 4.0 3.5
Page 94 and 95: days in 1975 (the first verified as
Page 96 and 97: Whether significant or not, the dea
Page 98 and 99: and higher spring death rates on Ma
Page 100 and 101: of an autumn 1992 Makalu II expedit
Page 102 and 103: a climb. For hired, falls were the
Page 104 and 105: Summit and the Hillary Step (9 of 2
Page 106 and 107: summer season as very few climbers
Page 108 and 109: 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 106 Death A
Page 110 and 111: 100 20 18 16 14 12 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 112 and 113: Deaths by Falling While avalanching
Page 114 and 115: 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 16 14 12 10
Page 116 and 117: Time of Day All Peaks 6000ers All F
Page 118 and 119: Deaths by Physiological Causes Phys
Page 120 and 121: Deaths by Age Groups Table and Char
Page 122 and 123: Deaths by Expedition Years Chart D-
Page 124 and 125: All Peaks Everest Citizenship Above
Page 126 and 127: 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 10.0 9.0 8.
Page 128 and 129: Table and Chart D-42 below show mem
Page 130 and 131: Table and Chart D-44 below show mem
Page 132 and 133: Everest, Spring 1996 A total of eig
Page 134 and 135: On the evening of 6th it started to
Page 138 and 139: Peak ID Peak Name 136 Appendix A Al
Page 148 and 149: 146 Appendix A
Page 150 and 151: In Chart D-4, the sample sizes are
Page 152 and 153: 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 32.2 2
Page 154 and 155: 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 11.9 4.
Page 156 and 157: 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 1.16 0.43 0.13 BARU (
Page 158 and 159: 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 2.42 1.80 700
Page 160 and 161: 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 1.29 0.09 0.41 1
Page 162 and 163: 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 3.04 0.0 LSHR (0/
Page 164: 5.0 4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0
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