The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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three most popular peaks, Ama Dablam (southeast ridge), Cho Oyu (northwest ridge), and Everest (South Col and North Col-northeast ridge). 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 47.0 42 Ascent Analysis 38.8 Member Ascent Rates by Peak Altitude (1950-1989) 23.6 6000-6499m 6500-6999m 7000-7499m 7500-7999m 8000-8499m 8500-8850m 47.0 45.0 Chart A-1: Member ascent rates for all peaks and routes from 1950-1989 45.0 38.8 16.0 15.7 Ascent Rate (1950-1989) Trend (Ascent Rate) Comparison of Member Ascent Rates by Peak Altitude 49.4 28.2 25.2 23.6 25.2 10.3 10.3 Chart A-2: Comparison of member ascent rates between 1950-1989 and 1990-2006 16.0 6000-6499m 6500-6999m 7000-7499m 7500-7999m 8000-8499m 8500-8850m Ascent Rate (1950-1989 for all routes) Ascent Rate (1990-2006 for all routes) Ascent Rate (1990-2006 w/o Com Rtes) Trend (1990-2006) Trend (1990-2006) Trend (1950-1989 w/o Com Rtes) 15.7 31.5 21.1 11.7 11.7 28.9 21.2
Commercial climbing has become increasingly popular since 1990 and has con tributed significantly to the numbers of climbers going above base camp (53% of all climbers above base camp were on the commercial routes of one of these peaks from 1990-2006). In Chart A-2 the blue columns and trend line show member ascent rates during the 1950-1989 period, and the red columns and trend line show ascent rates during the 1990-2006 period for all peaks and routes. The green columns and trend line show ascent rates during the 1990-2006 period factoring out the commercial routes on Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, and Everest. The difference between the red and green trend lines illustrates the impact of commercial climbing after 1990 as the red trend line is substantially higher than the green trend line. Segregating out the commercial routes for the 1950-1989 period does not substantially affect the member ascent rates during that period since earlier expeditions did not concentrate so much on those routes, but were more eager to explore new and unclimbed routes. Many climbers since 1990 are pursuing quests for the seven summits and the fourteen 8000ers and thus want to climb Everest and Cho Oyu as quickly and simply as possible. Popular Peaks by Altitude Range Chart A-3 gives member ascent rates for the most popular peaks in Nepal, those peaks with more than 750 total climbers above base camp (roughly equivalent to 75 or more expeditions). Member ascent rates for two commercial peaks, Ama Dablam at 54.4% and Cho Oyu at 37.8%, are higher than the mean (average) of 27.9% for all peaks (in black), while the ascent rate for Everest is lower at 22.4%. Member ascent rates for all of these peaks or groups are significantly higher or lower (statistically) than the 27.9% mean ascent rate for all peaks except for Lhotse, which has an ascent rate very close to the mean ascent rate for all peaks. The next group of charts shows member ascent rates grouped by 6000m, 7000m, and 8000m altitudes for the most popular peaks in Nepal. Chart A-4 shows the 6000m peaks with 50 or more members above base camp. Ama Dablam accounts for 52% of the members above base camp and 67% of the member ascents for all 6000m peaks. If this peak were omitted from the counts, the overall ascent rate for the other 6000ers would drop from 46.2% to 37.5%. Two of the peaks in Chart A-4, Langsisa Ri and Cholatse, were reclassified as trekking peaks in 2002. Expeditions to those peaks after that date are not counted in the 6000m totals. Expeditions to Dhampus since 2001 are also no longer tracked in The Himalayan Database as this peak is very easy and is often climbed illegally by trekking groups. Lamjung, Cholatse, and Bhrikuti do not have significantly higher or lower ascent rates than the mean for all 6000ers since their rates are very close to the mean. Langsisa Ri and Rathong with few members above base camp are still too close to the mean to be significant. Ascent Analysis 43
Page 3 and 4: The Himalaya by the Numbers A Stati
Page 5: Contents Introduction . . . . . . .
Page 8 and 9: the first north-south traverses. Th
Page 10 and 11: in the charts, 2 or 3-period moving
Page 12 and 13: 400 300 200 100 0 2000 1800 1600 14
Page 14 and 15: 2000 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000 800 6
Page 16 and 17: government starting in 1997 opened
Page 18 and 19: 500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100
Page 20 and 21: them. In fact during the late 1980s
Page 22 and 23: During the 1960s and early 1970s, e
Page 24 and 25: 250 200 150 100 50 0 250 200 150 10
Page 26 and 27: 100 75 50 25 0 1970 1971 1972 1973
Page 28 and 29: a few brave and hardy souls are wil
Page 30 and 31: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 32 and 33: Charts C-7a-c show the seasonal pat
Page 34 and 35: 1000 800 600 400 200 100 80 60 40 2
Page 36 and 37: closeness of the Himalaya. Many Jap
Page 38 and 39: For all peaks, the average team mem
Page 40 and 41: Periodically, massive storms fueled
Page 42 and 43: 40 Analysis of Climbing Activity
Page 46 and 47: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 11.7 ANN1 (121/
Page 48 and 49: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 7.7 11.7 T
Page 50 and 51: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 40 35 30 25
Page 52 and 53: The results indicate that the sprin
Page 54 and 55: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 30 25 20 15
Page 56 and 57: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 70 60 50 40
Page 58 and 59: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 80 70 60 5
Page 60 and 61: 100 60 50 40 30 20 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 62 and 63: Ascents by Citizenship Table A-24 s
Page 64 and 65: Ascents by Gender Table and Chart A
Page 66 and 67: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Chart A-27: Asc
Page 68 and 69: had a hard time making her own plat
Page 70 and 71: 60 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5
Page 72 and 73: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 74 and 75: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 80 70 60 50 40
Page 76 and 77: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 60 50 40 30
Page 78 and 79: Peak ID Peak Name Height Region 76
Page 80 and 81: Members have higher percentage of a
Page 82 and 83: considerable effort through deep sn
Page 84 and 85: 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 2.5
Page 86 and 87: 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 0 0 The
Page 88 and 89: Deadliest Peaks for Members The nex
Page 90 and 91: when five Austrians and their Sherp
Page 92 and 93: 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 4.5 4.0 3.5
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days in 1975 (the first verified as
Page 96 and 97:
Whether significant or not, the dea
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and higher spring death rates on Ma
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of an autumn 1992 Makalu II expedit
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a climb. For hired, falls were the
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Summit and the Hillary Step (9 of 2
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summer season as very few climbers
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2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 106 Death A
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100 20 18 16 14 12 10 90 80 70 60 5
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Deaths by Falling While avalanching
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10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 16 14 12 10
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Time of Day All Peaks 6000ers All F
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Deaths by Physiological Causes Phys
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Deaths by Age Groups Table and Char
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Deaths by Expedition Years Chart D-
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All Peaks Everest Citizenship Above
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2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 10.0 9.0 8.
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Table and Chart D-42 below show mem
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Table and Chart D-44 below show mem
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Everest, Spring 1996 A total of eig
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On the evening of 6th it started to
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camp at 7500m but there was nothing
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Peak ID Peak Name 136 Appendix A Al
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Page 144 and 145:
Page 146 and 147:
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146 Appendix A
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In Chart D-4, the sample sizes are
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90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 32.2 2
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45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 11.9 4.
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6 5 4 3 2 1 0 1.16 0.43 0.13 BARU (
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16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 2.42 1.80 700
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30 25 20 15 10 5 0 1.29 0.09 0.41 1
Page 162 and 163:
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 3.04 0.0 LSHR (0/
Page 164:
5.0 4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0
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The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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