The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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Charts C-7a-c show the seasonal patterns for Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, and Everest. Everest has become increasingly popular in the spring while the autumn season has declined to almost nil due to more favorable spring-time weather conditions and the ability to more accurately forecast the window of opportunity for a summit attempt when the prevailing winds are shifting from the winter to the summer monsoon seasonal patterns. Many commercial outfitters now allocate their climbing resources and guides to the spring season to meet the growing Everest demand and schedule their Ama Dablam and Cho Oyu trips for the autumn season. This has led to severe crowding on the southwest ridge route on Ama Dablam as the limited campsites cannot accommodate the increased traffic; this is not such a severe problem on Everest and Cho Oyu as the terrain is more forgiving of larger crowds. In very recent years, the largest commercial outfitters are now offering simultaneous Everest and Cho Oyu trips during the spring season, which accounts for the final turn-up in the blue trend line in Chart C-7b. A Bloody Confrontation From The Himalayan Database notes of Elizabeth Hawley The winter of 1989-90 featured the first battle between two expeditions, the Belgian- French and South Korean teams on Cho Oyu. The Belgian team was attempting the southeast face and had established camps and fixed lines up to 7200m. The South Korean team, originally permitted for the southwest ridge, made no attempt to climb their route, but came over to the Belgian route. The Sherpas for the Korean team used Belgian fixed ropes without asking & made their C1 at same Belgian site. On December 18, Alain Hubert & Regis Maincent of the Belgian team went to the Korean's C1 to talk to the Koreans about sharing the route. But the Koreans they spoke to did not understand and did not agree. So the Belgians said they would next day remove their own rope and on this day (Dec 18) they cut on Korean rope at bottom of the route, which made the Koreans and their Sherpas very angry. On the 19th the Korean's Sherpas replaced the cut rope and Belgians took down their own short section of ropes, so then the Korean’s Sherpas fixed entire route. On evening of the 19th (6:00 p.m.) three Koreans (including the deputy leader) & seven Korean Sherpas came over to the Belgian BC to fight. The deputy leader said to Hubert & Maincent, the only Belgian team members in BC, "I kill you" and two Koreans with sticks and two Sherpas with fists attacked Hubert & Maincent. In the hour-long fight that ensued, Maincent received a head wound that bled, and a rope was tied around his neck and his arms were pinned behind his back. He fell over and was able to free his hands from the insecure knots. The Europeans fled in the night, hobbling away with the aid of their ski poles, leaving their own two Sherpas at camp, fearing the Koreans would return & again attack with their larger members. They reached Gokyo early in morning & then continued on down. “I never imagined such a thing could happen,” said Hubert of the fight. “Mountain climbing should never turn into a battlefield.” The Korean leader, Lee Ho-Sang, denies that any Koreans took part in the fracas, but he does agree that in the hour-long fight Maincent received a head wound that bled, and that a rope was tied around Maincent’s neck and his arms were pinned behind his back. A week later Ang Lhakpa Sherpa of the Korean expedition reached the highest point of 7800m alone; he then fell 200m and a big snow avalanche immediately carried away his body. The other Sherpas refused to continue climb, and the Koreans then gave up. 30 Analysis of Climbing Activity
3600 3200 2800 2400 2000 1600 1200 800 400 300 270 240 210 180 150 120 90 60 30 0 0 Members Above Base Camp by Age Groups (1950-2006) 15-19 yrs 20-24 yrs 25-29 yrs 30-34 yrs 35-39 yrs 40-44 yrs 45-49 yrs 50-54 yrs 55-59 yrs 60-64 yrs 65-69 yrs 1950-1989 All Peaks & Routes 1990-2006 w/o ACE Com Routes 1990-2006 ACE Com Routes Trend (1950-1989 All Peaks & Rtes) Trend (1990-2006 w/o ACE Com Rtes) Trend (1990-2006 ACE Com Rtes) Chart C-8a: Members above base camp from 1950-1989 (all peaks & routes) and from 1990-2006 (all peaks with ACE commercial routes separated out) Women Above Base Camp by Age Groups (1950-2006) 15-19 yrs 20-24 yrs 25-29 yrs 30-34 yrs 35-39 yrs 40-44 yrs 45-49 yrs 50-54 yrs 55-59 yrs 60-64 yrs 65-69 yrs 1950-1989 All Peaks & Routes 1990-2006 w/o ACE Com Routes 1990-2006 ACE Com Routes Trend (1950-1989 All Peaks & Rtes) Trend (1990-2006 w/o ACE Com Rtes) Trend (1990-2006 ACE Com Rtes) Chart C-8b: Women members above base camp from 1950-1989 (all peaks & routes) and from 1990-2006 (all peaks with ACE commercial routes separated out) Analysis of Climbing Activity 31
Page 3 and 4: The Himalaya by the Numbers A Stati
Page 5: Contents Introduction . . . . . . .
Page 8 and 9: the first north-south traverses. Th
Page 10 and 11: in the charts, 2 or 3-period moving
Page 12 and 13: 400 300 200 100 0 2000 1800 1600 14
Page 14 and 15: 2000 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000 800 6
Page 16 and 17: government starting in 1997 opened
Page 18 and 19: 500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100
Page 20 and 21: them. In fact during the late 1980s
Page 22 and 23: During the 1960s and early 1970s, e
Page 24 and 25: 250 200 150 100 50 0 250 200 150 10
Page 26 and 27: 100 75 50 25 0 1970 1971 1972 1973
Page 28 and 29: a few brave and hardy souls are wil
Page 30 and 31: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 34 and 35: 1000 800 600 400 200 100 80 60 40 2
Page 36 and 37: closeness of the Himalaya. Many Jap
Page 38 and 39: For all peaks, the average team mem
Page 40 and 41: Periodically, massive storms fueled
Page 42 and 43: 40 Analysis of Climbing Activity
Page 44 and 45: three most popular peaks, Ama Dabla
Page 46 and 47: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 11.7 ANN1 (121/
Page 48 and 49: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 7.7 11.7 T
Page 50 and 51: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 40 35 30 25
Page 52 and 53: The results indicate that the sprin
Page 54 and 55: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 30 25 20 15
Page 56 and 57: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 70 60 50 40
Page 58 and 59: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 80 70 60 5
Page 60 and 61: 100 60 50 40 30 20 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 62 and 63: Ascents by Citizenship Table A-24 s
Page 64 and 65: Ascents by Gender Table and Chart A
Page 66 and 67: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Chart A-27: Asc
Page 68 and 69: had a hard time making her own plat
Page 70 and 71: 60 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5
Page 72 and 73: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 74 and 75: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 80 70 60 50 40
Page 76 and 77: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 60 50 40 30
Page 78 and 79: Peak ID Peak Name Height Region 76
Page 80 and 81: Members have higher percentage of a
Page 82 and 83:
considerable effort through deep sn
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3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 2.5
Page 86 and 87:
3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 0 0 The
Page 88 and 89:
Deadliest Peaks for Members The nex
Page 90 and 91:
when five Austrians and their Sherp
Page 92 and 93:
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 4.5 4.0 3.5
Page 94 and 95:
days in 1975 (the first verified as
Page 96 and 97:
Whether significant or not, the dea
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and higher spring death rates on Ma
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of an autumn 1992 Makalu II expedit
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a climb. For hired, falls were the
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Summit and the Hillary Step (9 of 2
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summer season as very few climbers
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2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 106 Death A
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100 20 18 16 14 12 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 112 and 113:
Deaths by Falling While avalanching
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10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 16 14 12 10
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Time of Day All Peaks 6000ers All F
Page 118 and 119:
Deaths by Physiological Causes Phys
Page 120 and 121:
Deaths by Age Groups Table and Char
Page 122 and 123:
Deaths by Expedition Years Chart D-
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All Peaks Everest Citizenship Above
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2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 10.0 9.0 8.
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Table and Chart D-42 below show mem
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Table and Chart D-44 below show mem
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Everest, Spring 1996 A total of eig
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On the evening of 6th it started to
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camp at 7500m but there was nothing
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Peak ID Peak Name 136 Appendix A Al
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Page 142 and 143:
Page 144 and 145:
Page 146 and 147:
Page 148 and 149:
146 Appendix A
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In Chart D-4, the sample sizes are
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90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 32.2 2
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45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 11.9 4.
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6 5 4 3 2 1 0 1.16 0.43 0.13 BARU (
Page 158 and 159:
16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 2.42 1.80 700
Page 160 and 161:
30 25 20 15 10 5 0 1.29 0.09 0.41 1
Page 162 and 163:
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 3.04 0.0 LSHR (0/
Page 164:
5.0 4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0
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The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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