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The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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Peak<br />

ID<br />

Peak Name Height Region<br />

76 Ascent <strong>Analysis</strong><br />

Exp<br />

Cnt<br />

Mbrs<br />

Abv<br />

BC<br />

Avg<br />

Suc Exp<br />

Days<br />

Avg<br />

Smt<br />

Days<br />

Min<br />

Smt<br />

Days<br />

Max<br />

Smt<br />

Days<br />

LEON Leonpo Gang 6979 3 7 52 38.7 32.7 24 40<br />

LHOT Lhotse 8516 2 145 945 37.8 32.6 4 58<br />

LSHR Lhotse Shar 8382 2 30 23 45.9 40.9 31 50<br />

LSIS Langsisa Ri 6412 3 11 65 13.7 10.7 5 21<br />

MAK2 Makalu II 7678 2 43 266 30.6 24.6 12 52<br />

MAKA Makalu 8485 2 178 1273 39.6 34.4 5 65<br />

MANA Manaslu 8163 4 190 1259 32.6 28.1 6 63<br />

MANN Manaslu North 7157 4 9 80 26.8 22.2 8 28<br />

NEPA Nepal Peak 7177 1 5 57 19.0 17.0 17 17<br />

NILN Nilgiri North 7061 5 13 80 26.2 21.6 13 32<br />

NUMB Numbur 6958 2 15 93 20.6 18.3 12 28<br />

NUPT Nuptse 7864 2 32 169 43.2 33.4 20 46<br />

PK29 Peak 29 7871 4 8 87 35.0 32.0 32 32<br />

PUMO Pumori 7165 2 208 1254 18.2 14.6 2 45<br />

PUTH Putha Hiunchuli 7246 6 29 235 18.1 14.3 6 36<br />

RATH Rathong 6682 1 4 60 8.0 6.0 6 6<br />

ROCN Roc Noir 7485 5 8 66 43.0 33.0 19 44<br />

SAIP Saipal 7030 7 11 63 30.0 25.8 19 37<br />

TAWO Tawoche 6495 2 16 74 16.4 12.6 2 21<br />

THAM Thamserku 6618 2 13 55 20.6 18.8 2 33<br />

TILI Tilicho 7134 5 55 428 14.7 10.9 3 23<br />

TUKU Tukuche 6920 6 35 256 13.5 11.7 5 20<br />

YALU Yalung Kang 8505 1 18 174 40.3 34.4 23 54<br />

Geographical Region Codes:<br />

1 = Kangchenjunga-Janak 5 = Annapurna-Damodar-Peri<br />

2 = Khumbu-Rolwaling-Makalu 6 = Dhaulagiri-Mukut<br />

3 = Langtang-Jugal 7 = Kanjiroba-Far West<br />

4 = Manaslu-Ganesh<br />

Table A-36: Average duration and days to first summit for successful expeditions<br />

Oxygen and <strong>the</strong> 8000ers<br />

Charts A-37a-b show <strong>the</strong> percentage of ascents without <strong>the</strong> use of supplementary oxygen<br />

for each of <strong>the</strong> 8000m peaks for <strong>the</strong> 1950-1989 and 1990-2006 periods.<br />

<strong>The</strong> 8000m peaks can be divided into three groups of peaks of similar altitude:<br />

8091-8188 (Annapurna I, Manaslu, Dhaulagiri I, Cho Oyu)<br />

8485-8486 (Makalu, Lhotse, Kangchenjunga)<br />

8850 (Everest)<br />

In general as shown in <strong>the</strong> following charts, <strong>the</strong> percentages of ascents without<br />

supplementary oxygen decrease with altitude as would be logically expected.<br />

For members, <strong>the</strong> percentages of ascents without supplementary oxygen increase in<br />

1990-2006 period over <strong>the</strong> 1950-1989 period for each peak except Everest and Cho Oyu<br />

(<strong>the</strong> commercially climbed peaks). For <strong>the</strong> commercial routes on Everest and Cho Oyu,<br />

<strong>the</strong> use of supplementary oxygen increases since most commercial clients are more<br />

interested in success than climbing style and route difficulty due to <strong>the</strong>ir general lack<br />

of experience and <strong>the</strong>ir relative high investment in <strong>the</strong> expedition in terms of cost and<br />

time. Many of <strong>the</strong>m cannot devote more time to <strong>the</strong>ir climbing adventures due to o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

commitments in <strong>the</strong>ir lives.

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