The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

Deadliest Peaks for Members
The next group of charts shows member death rates for the deadliest peaks in Nepal,
those peaks with member death rates above average and with some significant amount
of climbing activity.
Chart D-4 shows the 6000m peaks with member death rates above average for peaks
with 25 or more members above base camp. All of these peaks have death rates higher
than the mean death rate of 0.63% for all 6000ers.
But it should also be noted that most 6000m peaks only have one or two member
deaths, which means that a single accident can easily alter the results. Only Langsisa
Ri with three Japanese deaths in 1973, Kang Guru with seven French deaths in 2005,
and Ama Dablam with and one British and two Swedish deaths in 2006 have more
fatalities, all of which occurred in single avalanche accidents; the two Austrian deaths
on Chobutse also were the result of a single avalanche. Langsisa Ri, Kang Guru, and
Chobutse are the only peaks with statistically significantly higher death rates given
the number of deaths and the numbers of climbers attempting the peak.
Chart D-5 shows the 7000m peaks with member death rates above average for peaks
with 75 or more members above base camp. All of these peaks have death rates equal
to or higher than the mean death rate of 2.10% for all 7000ers.
Dhaulagiri IV (7661m) has the highest death rate for members with nearly four times
the mean. Five of the nine member deaths on Dhaulagiri IV occurred in one accident
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
0
0.46
AMAD
(15/3275)
0.63
All 6000ers
(40/6358)
Chart D-4: Member death rates for selected 6000m peaks
with 25+ members above base camp from 1950-2006
(the death rate is above the column bar; the death and above BC counts are below)
86 Death Analysis
1.18
KOTA
(1/85)
Deadliest 6000m Peaks for Members (1950-2006)
1.35
TAWO
(1/74)
1.40
DORJ
(2/143)
1.92
LEON
(1/52)
2.70
RAKS
(1/37)
3.23
NAMP
(1/31)
4.62
LSIS
(3/65)
4.65
KGUR
(8/172)
6.25
CHOB
(2/32)