The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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closeness of the Himalaya. Many Japanese universities and towns had climbing clubs that often organized outings to Nepal especially for the sub-8000m peaks. Since 1990 climbers from other countries have surpassed the Japanese in num bers. On the ACE commercial routes, the Americans and the British are the most numerous, while the French and Japanese are the leaders on the non-ACE routes. Several French commercial companies have organized trips to peaks such as Baruntse and Himlung. Japanese climbing clubs still remain active and often send groups to Nepal, especially into the Khumbu. Early on most teams were of one nationality or related nationalities. In the 1970s, a few large international teams were assembled to climb Everest, but due to their large size they tended to break down into smaller sub-groups along national lines often with unfortunate interpersonal consequences (the 1971 International Everest expedition led by Norman Dhyrenfurth is a prime example). As smaller alpine-style groups became more prevalent, they often looked past nationality and instead looked at compatibility and climbing resumes of individuals. Today most of the larger commercial expeditions are international. Still some friction can occur between teams (see previous inset box). Team Composition Charts C-10a-b illustrate how team composition (the numbers of members and hired personnel above base camp) has changed over the last 35 years. Chart C-10c shows the ratio of hired personnel to members. 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 1970- 1971 1972- 1973 1974- 1975 1976- 1977 Chart C-10a: Average expedition team sizes (members above base camp) from 1970-2006 34 Analysis of Climbing Activity Average Expedition Team Sizes (Members Above BC) 1978- 1979 1980- 1981 1982- 1983 1984- 1985 1986- 1987 1988- 1989 1990- 1991 1992- 1993 1994- 1995 1996- 1997 1998- 1999 2000- 2001 All Peaks Everest All Peaks w/o Everest Trend (All Peaks) Trend (Everest) Trend (All Peaks w/o Everest) 2002- 2003 2004- 2005 2006
50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 1970- 1971 1972- 1973 1974- 1975 1976- 1977 1978- 1979 Average Expedition Hired Counts (Hired Above BC) 1980- 1981 1982- 1983 1984- 1985 1986- 1987 1988- 1989 Chart C-10b: Average hired personnel counts (hired above base camp) from 1970-2006 1970- 1971 1972- 1973 1990- 1991 1992- 1993 1994- 1995 1996- 1997 1998- 1999 2000- 2001 2002- 2003 All Peaks Everest All Peaks w/o Everest Trend (All Peaks) Trend (Everest) Trend (All Peaks w/o Everest) 1974- 1975 1976- 1977 Average Ratios of Hired to Members Above BC per Expedition 1978- 1979 1980- 1981 1982- 1983 1984- 1985 1986- 1987 1988- 1989 Chart C-10c: Average ratios of hired to members above base camp from 1970-2006 1990- 1991 1992- 1993 1994- 1995 1996- 1997 1998- 1999 2000- 2001 All Peaks Everest All Peaks w/o Everest 2002- 2003 Trend (All Peaks) Trend (Everest) Trend (All Peaks w/o Everest) 2004- 2005 2004- 2005 2006 2006 Analysis of Climbing Activity 35
Page 3 and 4: The Himalaya by the Numbers A Stati
Page 5: Contents Introduction . . . . . . .
Page 8 and 9: the first north-south traverses. Th
Page 10 and 11: in the charts, 2 or 3-period moving
Page 12 and 13: 400 300 200 100 0 2000 1800 1600 14
Page 14 and 15: 2000 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000 800 6
Page 16 and 17: government starting in 1997 opened
Page 18 and 19: 500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100
Page 20 and 21: them. In fact during the late 1980s
Page 22 and 23: During the 1960s and early 1970s, e
Page 24 and 25: 250 200 150 100 50 0 250 200 150 10
Page 26 and 27: 100 75 50 25 0 1970 1971 1972 1973
Page 28 and 29: a few brave and hardy souls are wil
Page 30 and 31: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 32 and 33: Charts C-7a-c show the seasonal pat
Page 34 and 35: 1000 800 600 400 200 100 80 60 40 2
Page 38 and 39: For all peaks, the average team mem
Page 40 and 41: Periodically, massive storms fueled
Page 42 and 43: 40 Analysis of Climbing Activity
Page 44 and 45: three most popular peaks, Ama Dabla
Page 46 and 47: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 11.7 ANN1 (121/
Page 48 and 49: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 7.7 11.7 T
Page 50 and 51: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 40 35 30 25
Page 52 and 53: The results indicate that the sprin
Page 54 and 55: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 30 25 20 15
Page 56 and 57: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 70 60 50 40
Page 58 and 59: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 80 70 60 5
Page 60 and 61: 100 60 50 40 30 20 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 62 and 63: Ascents by Citizenship Table A-24 s
Page 64 and 65: Ascents by Gender Table and Chart A
Page 66 and 67: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Chart A-27: Asc
Page 68 and 69: had a hard time making her own plat
Page 70 and 71: 60 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5
Page 72 and 73: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 74 and 75: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 80 70 60 50 40
Page 76 and 77: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 60 50 40 30
Page 78 and 79: Peak ID Peak Name Height Region 76
Page 80 and 81: Members have higher percentage of a
Page 82 and 83: considerable effort through deep sn
Page 84 and 85: 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 2.5
Page 86 and 87:
3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 0 0 The
Page 88 and 89:
Deadliest Peaks for Members The nex
Page 90 and 91:
when five Austrians and their Sherp
Page 92 and 93:
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 4.5 4.0 3.5
Page 94 and 95:
days in 1975 (the first verified as
Page 96 and 97:
Whether significant or not, the dea
Page 98 and 99:
and higher spring death rates on Ma
Page 100 and 101:
of an autumn 1992 Makalu II expedit
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a climb. For hired, falls were the
Page 104 and 105:
Summit and the Hillary Step (9 of 2
Page 106 and 107:
summer season as very few climbers
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2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 106 Death A
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100 20 18 16 14 12 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 112 and 113:
Deaths by Falling While avalanching
Page 114 and 115:
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 16 14 12 10
Page 116 and 117:
Time of Day All Peaks 6000ers All F
Page 118 and 119:
Deaths by Physiological Causes Phys
Page 120 and 121:
Deaths by Age Groups Table and Char
Page 122 and 123:
Deaths by Expedition Years Chart D-
Page 124 and 125:
All Peaks Everest Citizenship Above
Page 126 and 127:
2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 10.0 9.0 8.
Page 128 and 129:
Table and Chart D-42 below show mem
Page 130 and 131:
Table and Chart D-44 below show mem
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Everest, Spring 1996 A total of eig
Page 134 and 135:
On the evening of 6th it started to
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camp at 7500m but there was nothing
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Peak ID Peak Name 136 Appendix A Al
Page 140 and 141:
Page 142 and 143:
Page 144 and 145:
Page 146 and 147:
Page 148 and 149:
146 Appendix A
Page 150 and 151:
In Chart D-4, the sample sizes are
Page 152 and 153:
90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 32.2 2
Page 154 and 155:
45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 11.9 4.
Page 156 and 157:
6 5 4 3 2 1 0 1.16 0.43 0.13 BARU (
Page 158 and 159:
16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 2.42 1.80 700
Page 160 and 161:
30 25 20 15 10 5 0 1.29 0.09 0.41 1
Page 162 and 163:
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 3.04 0.0 LSHR (0/
Page 164:
5.0 4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0
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