The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

and higher spring death rates on Manaslu and Dhaulagiri I for both members and
hired.
Altitudes of Death
Chart D-14 gives the death counts for altitudes of death for all climbers (members
and hired personnel) for all peaks. Death counts are used instead of death rates in the
charts below because it is not known how high each climber went above base camp
(The Himalayan Database generally only tracks the altitudes of those who summited or
reached the expedition high point).
Altitudes of death for avalanches and falls are added to Chart D-14. The red trend line
for avalanche deaths mirrors the shape of the total death blue trend line illustrating
the strong impact that avalanches have on overall deaths. The red line tops out at
the intermediate altitudes (6500m-6900m) where the snow accumulations are the
greatest, and then tapers off more rapidly because avalanches are fewer where snow
accumulations are less.
160
140
120
100
80
60
40
20
0
1 3
1
0
1500-
1999m
2000-
2499m
2500-
2999m
The green trend line for falls generally increases illustrating the danger of falling as
one gets higher on the mountain and becomes more fatigued. The flattening out of the
fall trend line is due in part to the fewer number of climbers reaching altitudes above
7500m (the majority of the peaks are lower than 7500m).
Chart D-15 give the altitudes of death for all climbers for the 8000ers.
96 Death Analysis
Altitudes of Death for All Peaks for All Climbers (1950-2006)
3000-
3499m
10
3500-
3999m
30
22
1
4000-
4499m
40
27
3
4500-
4999m
45
Chart D-14: Altitudes of death for all peaks from 1950-2006
20
4
5000-
5499m
87
42
12
5500-
5999m
105
53
20
6000-
6499m
142
75
38
6500-
6999m
All Deaths Avalanches Falls
93
14
53
7000-
7499m
Trend (All Deaths) Trend (Avalanches) Trend (Falls)
73
12
36
7500-
7999m
67
4
45
8000-
8499m
65
39
8500-
8850m