The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100 0 23.1 324 31.7 407 For all peaks without Everest, the most successful team size was 2-3 members with an ascent rate of 37.8%, but only 2075 members that went above base camp were in teams of this size. Teams of 6-7 members sent the most members above base camp (5311), but had a lower ascent rate of 28.0%. The spike at team size 28-31 with a 46.0% ascent rate is due to the three large Ama Dablam and Kangchenjunga expeditions discussed above. For Everest, the most successful team size again was 2-3 members with an ascent rate of 31.7%, but only 407 members that went above base camp were in teams of this size. Teams of 10-11 and 16-19 members sent the most members above base camp (874 and 866), but had lower ascent rates (21.4% and 16.2%). Average Expedition Duration and Days to Summit Charts A-34a-g show average duration (the time from arrival at base to departure from base camp) for successful expeditions (the blue lines in the charts ) and the average number of days taken to reach the team’s first summit (the green lines) for the period from 1970 to 2006. These charts show the times for all peaks, the 6000ers, 7000ers, and 8000ers, Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, and Everest. They may be used as indicator of how long an expedition should plan to be on the mountain in order to succeed in their summit quest. The quickest and longest time for each peak are given in Table A-36. The quickest times should not be confused with speed ascents, which are usually done several days or weeks after arrival at base camp and after proper acclimatization has been completed. 70 Ascent Analysis Members Above BC and Ascent Rates by Member Team Size For Everest (1950-2006) 525 27.0 823 26.2 836 26.0 874 21.4 Chart A-33: Ascent rates by member team size for Everest from 1950-2006 (the horizontal scale is the member team size; the green line is the total number of members above BC for each team size increment; the red line is the ascent rate for each team size increment) 766 25.1 682 19.4 866 679 21.9 26.1 440 275 16.2 16.0 13.3 1 2- 3 4- 5 6- 7 8- 9 10-11 12-13 14-15 16-19 20-23 24-27 28-31 32-35 Members Above BC (left scale) Ascent Rate (right scale) 105 60.0 50.0 40.0 30.0 20.0 10.0 0.0
60 50 40 30 20 10 0 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 1970 1971 1972 1973 1974 Average Number of Days for Successful Expeditions and Summits for All Peaks (1970-2006) 1975 1976 1977 1978 1979 1980 1981 1982 1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 Avg Nbr Days for Successful Expeditions (All Peaks) Avg Nbr Days for Summit (All Peaks) Trend (Avg Nbr Days for Expedition) Trend (Avg Nbr Days to Summit) Chart A-34a: Average number days of successful expeditions and days to first summit for all peaks from 1970-2006 1970 1971 1972 1973 1974 1975 Average Number of Days for Successful Expeditions and Summits for 6000ers (1970-2006) 1976 1977 1978 1979 1980 1981 1982 1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 Avg Nbr Days for Successful Expeditions (6000ers) Avg Nbr Days for Summit (6000ers) Trend (Avg Nbr Days for Expedition) Trend (Avg Nbr Days to Summit) Chart A-34b: Average number days of successful expeditions and days to first summit for all 6000ers from 1970-2006 2005 2006 Ascent Analysis 71
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The Himalaya by the Numbers A Stati
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Contents Introduction . . . . . . .
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the first north-south traverses. Th
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in the charts, 2 or 3-period moving
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400 300 200 100 0 2000 1800 1600 14
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2000 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000 800 6
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government starting in 1997 opened
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500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100
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them. In fact during the late 1980s
Page 22 and 23: During the 1960s and early 1970s, e
Page 24 and 25: 250 200 150 100 50 0 250 200 150 10
Page 26 and 27: 100 75 50 25 0 1970 1971 1972 1973
Page 28 and 29: a few brave and hardy souls are wil
Page 30 and 31: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 32 and 33: Charts C-7a-c show the seasonal pat
Page 34 and 35: 1000 800 600 400 200 100 80 60 40 2
Page 36 and 37: closeness of the Himalaya. Many Jap
Page 38 and 39: For all peaks, the average team mem
Page 40 and 41: Periodically, massive storms fueled
Page 42 and 43: 40 Analysis of Climbing Activity
Page 44 and 45: three most popular peaks, Ama Dabla
Page 46 and 47: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 11.7 ANN1 (121/
Page 48 and 49: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 7.7 11.7 T
Page 50 and 51: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 40 35 30 25
Page 52 and 53: The results indicate that the sprin
Page 54 and 55: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 30 25 20 15
Page 56 and 57: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 70 60 50 40
Page 58 and 59: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 80 70 60 5
Page 60 and 61: 100 60 50 40 30 20 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 62 and 63: Ascents by Citizenship Table A-24 s
Page 64 and 65: Ascents by Gender Table and Chart A
Page 66 and 67: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Chart A-27: Asc
Page 68 and 69: had a hard time making her own plat
Page 70 and 71: 60 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5
Page 74 and 75: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 80 70 60 50 40
Page 76 and 77: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 60 50 40 30
Page 78 and 79: Peak ID Peak Name Height Region 76
Page 80 and 81: Members have higher percentage of a
Page 82 and 83: considerable effort through deep sn
Page 84 and 85: 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 2.5
Page 86 and 87: 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 0 0 The
Page 88 and 89: Deadliest Peaks for Members The nex
Page 90 and 91: when five Austrians and their Sherp
Page 92 and 93: 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 4.5 4.0 3.5
Page 94 and 95: days in 1975 (the first verified as
Page 96 and 97: Whether significant or not, the dea
Page 98 and 99: and higher spring death rates on Ma
Page 100 and 101: of an autumn 1992 Makalu II expedit
Page 102 and 103: a climb. For hired, falls were the
Page 104 and 105: Summit and the Hillary Step (9 of 2
Page 106 and 107: summer season as very few climbers
Page 108 and 109: 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 106 Death A
Page 110 and 111: 100 20 18 16 14 12 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 112 and 113: Deaths by Falling While avalanching
Page 114 and 115: 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 16 14 12 10
Page 116 and 117: Time of Day All Peaks 6000ers All F
Page 118 and 119: Deaths by Physiological Causes Phys
Page 120 and 121: Deaths by Age Groups Table and Char
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Deaths by Expedition Years Chart D-
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All Peaks Everest Citizenship Above
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2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 10.0 9.0 8.
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Table and Chart D-42 below show mem
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Table and Chart D-44 below show mem
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Everest, Spring 1996 A total of eig
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On the evening of 6th it started to
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camp at 7500m but there was nothing
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Peak ID Peak Name 136 Appendix A Al
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146 Appendix A
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In Chart D-4, the sample sizes are
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90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 32.2 2
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45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 11.9 4.
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6 5 4 3 2 1 0 1.16 0.43 0.13 BARU (
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16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 2.42 1.80 700
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30 25 20 15 10 5 0 1.29 0.09 0.41 1
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8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 3.04 0.0 LSHR (0/
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5.0 4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0
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