The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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and higher spring death rates on Manaslu and Dhaulagiri I for both members and hired. Altitudes of Death Chart D-14 gives the death counts for altitudes of death for all climbers (members and hired personnel) for all peaks. Death counts are used instead of death rates in the charts below because it is not known how high each climber went above base camp (The Himalayan Database generally only tracks the altitudes of those who summited or reached the expedition high point). Altitudes of death for avalanches and falls are added to Chart D-14. The red trend line for avalanche deaths mirrors the shape of the total death blue trend line illustrating the strong impact that avalanches have on overall deaths. The red line tops out at the intermediate altitudes (6500m-6900m) where the snow accumulations are the greatest, and then tapers off more rapidly because avalanches are fewer where snow accumulations are less. 160 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0 1 3 1 0 1500- 1999m 2000- 2499m 2500- 2999m The green trend line for falls generally increases illustrating the danger of falling as one gets higher on the mountain and becomes more fatigued. The flattening out of the fall trend line is due in part to the fewer number of climbers reaching altitudes above 7500m (the majority of the peaks are lower than 7500m). Chart D-15 give the altitudes of death for all climbers for the 8000ers. 96 Death Analysis Altitudes of Death for All Peaks for All Climbers (1950-2006) 3000- 3499m 10 3500- 3999m 30 22 1 4000- 4499m 40 27 3 4500- 4999m 45 Chart D-14: Altitudes of death for all peaks from 1950-2006 20 4 5000- 5499m 87 42 12 5500- 5999m 105 53 20 6000- 6499m 142 75 38 6500- 6999m All Deaths Avalanches Falls 93 14 53 7000- 7499m Trend (All Deaths) Trend (Avalanches) Trend (Falls) 73 12 36 7500- 7999m 67 4 45 8000- 8499m 65 39 8500- 8850m
90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1500- 1999m 2000- 2499m 2500- 2999m When considering only the 8000m peaks, the green trend line for falls continues to rise as altitude increases better illustrating the danger of falling at the very high altitudes. Causes of Death Altitudes of Death for 8000ers for All Climbers (1950-2006) 3000- 3499m 3500- 3999m 4 1 0 4000- 4499m 21 12 2 4500- 4999m Chart D-15: Altitudes of death for all 8000ers from 1950-2006 Table D-16 gives the causes of death for members and hired personnel for all peaks from 6000m to 8850m. The last two rows of the table indicate the number of deaths where acute mountain sickness (AMS) or major storms were either the primary cause or a contributing factor. For example, the primary cause of death for Scott Fischer on Everest was exposure/frostbite with contributing factors of AMS and the disastrous storm of May 1996. For both members and hired personnel, the majority of the deaths are due to falls or avalanches. For members, falling was the leading cause of death (39.1%), while for hired avalanches were the leading cause (48.3%), most likely because hired spent much of their time and energy establishing and supplying camps located in avalanche-prone zones. Somewhat surprisingly, AMS did not figure as prominently as might be expected. AMS may be a hidden factor that was not known or accurately reported; for example, AMS may well have caused a few falls during descents from summit bids of the 8000m peaks, even though it went unreported. Table D-16 also includes deaths that occurred on expedition approach or return marches or at base camp as a result of non-climbing events. These deaths often were the results of trail accidents, illnesses, heart attacks, etc. For example, two leaders 29 12 1 5000- 5499m 50 19 2 5500- 5999m 46 28 6 6000- 6499m 78 50 10 6500- 6999m All Deaths Avalanches Falls 60 14 28 7000- 7499m Trend (All Deaths) Trend (Avalanches) Trend (Falls) 69 12 32 7500- 7999m 67 65 Death Analysis 97 4 45 8000- 8499m 39 8500- 8850m
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The Himalaya by the Numbers A Stati
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Contents Introduction . . . . . . .
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the first north-south traverses. Th
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in the charts, 2 or 3-period moving
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400 300 200 100 0 2000 1800 1600 14
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2000 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000 800 6
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government starting in 1997 opened
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500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100
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them. In fact during the late 1980s
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During the 1960s and early 1970s, e
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250 200 150 100 50 0 250 200 150 10
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100 75 50 25 0 1970 1971 1972 1973
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a few brave and hardy souls are wil
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900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
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Charts C-7a-c show the seasonal pat
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1000 800 600 400 200 100 80 60 40 2
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closeness of the Himalaya. Many Jap
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For all peaks, the average team mem
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Periodically, massive storms fueled
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40 Analysis of Climbing Activity
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three most popular peaks, Ama Dabla
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60 50 40 30 20 10 0 11.7 ANN1 (121/
Page 48 and 49: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 7.7 11.7 T
Page 50 and 51: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 40 35 30 25
Page 52 and 53: The results indicate that the sprin
Page 54 and 55: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 30 25 20 15
Page 56 and 57: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 70 60 50 40
Page 58 and 59: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 80 70 60 5
Page 60 and 61: 100 60 50 40 30 20 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 62 and 63: Ascents by Citizenship Table A-24 s
Page 64 and 65: Ascents by Gender Table and Chart A
Page 66 and 67: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Chart A-27: Asc
Page 68 and 69: had a hard time making her own plat
Page 70 and 71: 60 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5
Page 72 and 73: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 74 and 75: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 80 70 60 50 40
Page 76 and 77: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 60 50 40 30
Page 78 and 79: Peak ID Peak Name Height Region 76
Page 80 and 81: Members have higher percentage of a
Page 82 and 83: considerable effort through deep sn
Page 84 and 85: 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 2.5
Page 86 and 87: 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 0 0 The
Page 88 and 89: Deadliest Peaks for Members The nex
Page 90 and 91: when five Austrians and their Sherp
Page 92 and 93: 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 4.5 4.0 3.5
Page 94 and 95: days in 1975 (the first verified as
Page 96 and 97: Whether significant or not, the dea
Page 100 and 101: of an autumn 1992 Makalu II expedit
Page 102 and 103: a climb. For hired, falls were the
Page 104 and 105: Summit and the Hillary Step (9 of 2
Page 106 and 107: summer season as very few climbers
Page 108 and 109: 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 106 Death A
Page 110 and 111: 100 20 18 16 14 12 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 112 and 113: Deaths by Falling While avalanching
Page 114 and 115: 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 16 14 12 10
Page 116 and 117: Time of Day All Peaks 6000ers All F
Page 118 and 119: Deaths by Physiological Causes Phys
Page 120 and 121: Deaths by Age Groups Table and Char
Page 122 and 123: Deaths by Expedition Years Chart D-
Page 124 and 125: All Peaks Everest Citizenship Above
Page 126 and 127: 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 10.0 9.0 8.
Page 128 and 129: Table and Chart D-42 below show mem
Page 130 and 131: Table and Chart D-44 below show mem
Page 132 and 133: Everest, Spring 1996 A total of eig
Page 134 and 135: On the evening of 6th it started to
Page 136 and 137: camp at 7500m but there was nothing
Page 138 and 139: Peak ID Peak Name 136 Appendix A Al
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146 Appendix A
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In Chart D-4, the sample sizes are
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90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 32.2 2
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45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 11.9 4.
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6 5 4 3 2 1 0 1.16 0.43 0.13 BARU (
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16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 2.42 1.80 700
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30 25 20 15 10 5 0 1.29 0.09 0.41 1
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8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 3.04 0.0 LSHR (0/
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5.0 4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0
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The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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