The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

Recommendations

Info

The results indicate that the spring season is more favorable in the central and far eastern regions of Nepal, areas that are prone to heavy snowfall and avalanching, while the autumn season is more favorable in the Khumbu-Makalu-Rolwaling and in the western regions of Nepal. The Khumbu region is still slightly more favorable in autumn when the expeditions to Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, and Everest are factored out (Ama Dablam and Cho Oyu are best in autumn while Everest is best in spring as shown in Table A-8). Table and Chart A-9b show member ascent counts and rates by season broken out by geographic regions for the 6000m and 7000m peaks. When only peaks under 8000m are considered, only the Annapurna-Damodar-Peri and Langtang-Jugal regions remain significantly more favorable in the spring since the Manaslu-Ganesh and Kangchenjunga-Janak regions are skewed by the higher spring success rates on Manaslu and Kangchenjunga (see Charts A-8 and 9a). The Dhaulagiri- Mukut region becomes significantly more favorable in the autumn when the high spring success rate on Dhaulagiri I is factored out. The Khumbu-Makalu-Rolwaling region is neutral when Ama Dablam is omitted. Ascents by Expedition Years Chart A-10 shows member ascent rates by expedition years in 5-year steps for all peaks. The results from the early years from 1950 to 1970 are more erratic due to the lower numbers of expeditions, especially in the late 1960s when Himalayan climbing was suspended in Nepal and before the Chinese side of the border was opened to foreign climbers in 1980. From the 1970s onward, the data in Chart A-10 show more consistent results as the trend lines show a steady increase in member ascents and ascent rates for all peaks combined. Chart A-11 shows member ascent rates over time broken out by altitude. The rates for the 6000ers and 7000ers are relatively even, 40-50% for the 6000ers and 20-25% for the 7000ers. Only for the 8000ers has there been a steady increase since 1970, starting at about 7% in 1970 and increasing to 40% after 2000. Charts A-12 through A-14 give a more detailed view of member ascent rates since 1970 when segregating out the ACE commercial routes. These commercial peaks show a more rapid increase in ascent rates during the last 15 years. For the 6000ers, there actually has been a decrease in ascent rates when Ama Dablam is removed, possibly due to recent emphasis on exploratory expeditions to the newly opened 6000m peaks. For the 8000ers, there has been an increase in ascent rates for peaks other than Cho Oyu and Everest, most likely due to the increasing interest in climbing all of the fourteen 8000ers. Chart A-15 shows member ascent rates for only the commercial routes on Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, and Everest since 1990. Charts A-16 through A-18 compare member ascent rates on Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, and Everest for the commercial routes and the non-commercial routes since 1970. Only Everest shows an increase in member ascent rates for the non-commercial routes. 50 Ascent Analysis
45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 15.4 1950-1954 46/298 27.5 27.4 1955-1959 66/240 1960-1964 153/559 Member Ascent Rates for All Peaks (1950-2006) 20.5 1965-1969 57/278 17.1 1970-1974 218/1277 22.6 1975-1979 429/1901 Chart A-10: Member ascent rates by expedition year for all peaks from 1950-2006 (the ascent rate is above the column bar; the ascent / above BC counts are below) 20.2 1980-1984 798/3958 19.7 1985-1989 921/4673 25.9 1990-1994 1405/5415 All Peaks Trend (All Peaks) Chart A-11: Member ascent rates by expedition year for 6000ers, 7000ers, and 8000ers from 1950-2006 31.3 1995-1999 1895/6048 Member Ascent Rates for All 6000ers, 7000ers, and 8000ers (1950-2006) 35.2 2000-2004 2486/7056 39.5 2005-2006 1272/3217 1950-1954 1955-1959 1960-1964 1965-1969 1970-1974 1975-1979 1980-1984 1985-1989 1990-1994 1995-1999 2000-2004 2005-2006 6000ers 7000ers 8000ers Trend (6000ers) Trend (7000ers) Trend (8000ers) Ascent Analysis 51
Page 3 and 4: The Himalaya by the Numbers A Stati
Page 5: Contents Introduction . . . . . . .
Page 8 and 9: the first north-south traverses. Th
Page 10 and 11: in the charts, 2 or 3-period moving
Page 12 and 13: 400 300 200 100 0 2000 1800 1600 14
Page 14 and 15: 2000 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000 800 6
Page 16 and 17: government starting in 1997 opened
Page 18 and 19: 500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100
Page 20 and 21: them. In fact during the late 1980s
Page 22 and 23: During the 1960s and early 1970s, e
Page 24 and 25: 250 200 150 100 50 0 250 200 150 10
Page 26 and 27: 100 75 50 25 0 1970 1971 1972 1973
Page 28 and 29: a few brave and hardy souls are wil
Page 30 and 31: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 32 and 33: Charts C-7a-c show the seasonal pat
Page 34 and 35: 1000 800 600 400 200 100 80 60 40 2
Page 36 and 37: closeness of the Himalaya. Many Jap
Page 38 and 39: For all peaks, the average team mem
Page 40 and 41: Periodically, massive storms fueled
Page 42 and 43: 40 Analysis of Climbing Activity
Page 44 and 45: three most popular peaks, Ama Dabla
Page 46 and 47: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 11.7 ANN1 (121/
Page 48 and 49: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 7.7 11.7 T
Page 50 and 51: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 40 35 30 25
Page 54 and 55: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 30 25 20 15
Page 56 and 57: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 70 60 50 40
Page 58 and 59: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 80 70 60 5
Page 60 and 61: 100 60 50 40 30 20 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 62 and 63: Ascents by Citizenship Table A-24 s
Page 64 and 65: Ascents by Gender Table and Chart A
Page 66 and 67: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Chart A-27: Asc
Page 68 and 69: had a hard time making her own plat
Page 70 and 71: 60 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5
Page 72 and 73: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 74 and 75: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 80 70 60 50 40
Page 76 and 77: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 60 50 40 30
Page 78 and 79: Peak ID Peak Name Height Region 76
Page 80 and 81: Members have higher percentage of a
Page 82 and 83: considerable effort through deep sn
Page 84 and 85: 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 2.5
Page 86 and 87: 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 0 0 The
Page 88 and 89: Deadliest Peaks for Members The nex
Page 90 and 91: when five Austrians and their Sherp
Page 92 and 93: 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 4.5 4.0 3.5
Page 94 and 95: days in 1975 (the first verified as
Page 96 and 97: Whether significant or not, the dea
Page 98 and 99: and higher spring death rates on Ma
Page 100 and 101: of an autumn 1992 Makalu II expedit
Page 102 and 103:
a climb. For hired, falls were the
Page 104 and 105:
Summit and the Hillary Step (9 of 2
Page 106 and 107:
summer season as very few climbers
Page 108 and 109:
2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 106 Death A
Page 110 and 111:
100 20 18 16 14 12 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 112 and 113:
Deaths by Falling While avalanching
Page 114 and 115:
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 16 14 12 10
Page 116 and 117:
Time of Day All Peaks 6000ers All F
Page 118 and 119:
Deaths by Physiological Causes Phys
Page 120 and 121:
Deaths by Age Groups Table and Char
Page 122 and 123:
Deaths by Expedition Years Chart D-
Page 124 and 125:
All Peaks Everest Citizenship Above
Page 126 and 127:
2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 10.0 9.0 8.
Page 128 and 129:
Table and Chart D-42 below show mem
Page 130 and 131:
Table and Chart D-44 below show mem
Page 132 and 133:
Everest, Spring 1996 A total of eig
Page 134 and 135:
On the evening of 6th it started to
Page 136 and 137:
camp at 7500m but there was nothing
Page 138 and 139:
Peak ID Peak Name 136 Appendix A Al
Page 140 and 141:
Page 142 and 143:
Page 144 and 145:
Page 146 and 147:
Page 148 and 149:
146 Appendix A
Page 150 and 151:
In Chart D-4, the sample sizes are
Page 152 and 153:
90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 32.2 2
Page 154 and 155:
45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 11.9 4.
Page 156 and 157:
6 5 4 3 2 1 0 1.16 0.43 0.13 BARU (
Page 158 and 159:
16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 2.42 1.80 700
Page 160 and 161:
30 25 20 15 10 5 0 1.29 0.09 0.41 1
Page 162 and 163:
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 3.04 0.0 LSHR (0/
Page 164:
5.0 4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0
show all

The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

Delete template?

Save as template?