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A weekly menu (side dishes to be served with rice) suggested in July 1920 by the magazine Shufu no tomo. 44 Monday miso soup with cabbage, aubergine pickle Tuesday miso soup with wax gourd, simmered beans Wednesday miso soup with tōfu, dried seaweed (nori) Thursday miso soup with taros, tsukudani Friday miso soup with leek, miso with vegetables breakfast lunch dinner stewed squash simmered red snapper, simmered tōfu simmered fish cake and lotus root grilled horse mackerel, cucumber simmered wax gourd sprinkled with minced fish, pork or beef simmered thinsliced deep-fried tōfu and udo stalks Saturday miso soup chicken and peas with aubergine, in creamy sauce, mashed preserved fish teriyaki skipjack Sunday miso soup with snap beans, grated daikon grilled cherry salmon, soused spinach grilled aubergine, hamburger steak chilled savoury egg custard, simmered young taros and Egyptian kidney beans, grilled squid simmered squash, stewed rock trout with ginger skipjack in wasabi dressing, Ryūkyū style soup with chicken, burdock root and devil’s tongue jelly myōga and dried shrimps in vinegar dressing, pork balls stewed with cabbage aubergine, sōmen noodles, Western-style fish dish (with bread)
A weekly menu (side dishes to be served with rice) suggested in 1915 by the magazine Fujin zasshi. 45 Monday miso soup with nattō, scrambled egg Tuesday miso soup with clams, simmered snap beans Wednesday miso soup with tōfu, fried egg Thursday miso soup with tōfu lees, simmered beef with ginger Friday egg with nori seaweed, aubergine simmered in miso Saturday soup with grilled wheat gluten (yakifu) and myōga ginger, simmered snap breakfast lunch dinner beans Sunday miso soup with daikon radish, Narazuke pickles 105 grilled horse mackerel, simmered lotus root Korean style myōga and mackerel in vinegar dressing, simmered taros simmered mackerel, soused rape seedlings Korean-style beef, seaweed (wakame) and myōga in vinegar dressing deep-fried pork cutlet, simmered wax gourd deep-fried aubergine, simmered horse mackerel yam soup, grilled chicken mackerel sashimi, snap beans with sesame dressing pork stew grilled salmon, simmered sweet potatoes simmered vegetables, grilled fish cake hamburger steak, deep-fried lobster, apple jelly miso soup with pork, vegetables and sweet potatoes; cucumber in sesame-vinegar dressing beefsteak, mashed potatoes Chinese chives, ‘convenient salad’ (potatoes, carrots, tomatoes, cucumbers in a dressing made of boiled and mashed egg yolk, butter, mustard and vinegar) and vegetable stew. 46
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Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
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Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
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Contents Introduction 7 1 Western F
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A contemporary home meal. (Chikuzen
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multiculturalism in contemporary Ja
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themselves experts on it. They all
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entremets Pudding à la Diplomate M
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controlled the emperor. The only st
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Eating for ‘Civilization and Enli
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the daily life of the Palace at all
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The new faces, the old historical n
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was to become the crucial strategy
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concern ‘to preserve draft animal
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various types of meat indicates tha
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Westerners slaughtering and butcher
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Japanese enjoying beef stew, from K
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of the meat-eating taboo fitted per
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Foreign settlement house in Yokoham
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My health is miserable, my appetite
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Dining-room of the Grand Hotel in Y
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William Gray Dixon (1854-1928), who
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opened in 1863, may have been prece
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Prices of set menus at top Western-
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Poached eggs Omelettes Beefsteak Co
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uilding blocks for the new dining s
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Lunch room at the Takashimaya depar
Page 56 and 57: interconnectedness between food-pro
Page 58 and 59: Three Strengthening the Military Fa
Page 60 and 61: further inhibited their diffusion.
Page 62 and 63: the hope of increasing sales, Ichit
Page 64 and 65: in Meiji Japan. Yanagisawa Sakichi
Page 66 and 67: dwarfish - too small, in fact, for
Page 68 and 69: quo, by discarding the prevailing p
Page 70 and 71: usually consisted of a bowl of rice
Page 72 and 73: Modernizing Military Catering Berib
Page 74 and 75: availability of foodstuffs. Moreove
Page 76 and 77: Fried rice Boiled rice and barley s
Page 78 and 79: were easiest to procure on location
Page 80 and 81: in the military was also far above
Page 82 and 83: division (and its location) Imperia
Page 84 and 85: homogenizing effect of industrially
Page 86 and 87: Conscripts at table, 1938. new tast
Page 88 and 89: Soldiers preparing rice balls, 1937
Page 90 and 91: Although serving the interests of t
Page 92 and 93: ‘A Page from the Accounting Book
Page 94 and 95: A middle-class family at dinner, a
Page 96 and 97: An urban working family at a shared
Page 98 and 99: An issue of the magazine Fujin zass
Page 100 and 101: ecame a standard sight at Western-i
Page 102 and 103: they affected the cooking practices
Page 104 and 105: to try new recipes and made homemak
Page 108 and 109: An array of methods was employed by
Page 110 and 111: were sweet azuki bean soup with mil
Page 112 and 113: The style is known nowadays under t
Page 114 and 115: However, the principles of beauty o
Page 116 and 117: Japanese home cookery for future ge
Page 118 and 119: City dwellers planting vegetables b
Page 120 and 121: The ‘Rising Sun Lunch Box’ (Hin
Page 122 and 123: conscription made modern nation sta
Page 124 and 125: made public on a daily basis by the
Page 126 and 127: menus - were propagated as an examp
Page 128 and 129: Ship’s biscuits factory, c. 1940s
Page 130 and 131: than rice (which became increasingl
Page 132 and 133: In the long run, the wartime ration
Page 134 and 135: Wartime communal cooking provided a
Page 136 and 137: Defeat: Japan in the Wake of World
Page 138 and 139: 1955 Eiyō no seirigaku [Physiology
Page 140 and 141: Six The Culinary Consequences of Ja
Page 142 and 143: hishio, is recorded to have been us
Page 144 and 145: A Chinese servant waiting on Wester
Page 146 and 147: Chinatown restaurant. Only a handfu
Page 148 and 149: A typical rāmen restaurant in rura
Page 150 and 151: kyōkasho (‘Catering Textbook for
Page 152 and 153: was supplied, largely illegally, by
Page 154 and 155: historically embedded than is gener
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Kimch’i production in Japan, 1980
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Seven Multiple Circuits of Affluenc
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School lunch centred on bread and m
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The emergence of a consumer market
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the catering departments of each sc
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Japan’s school lunch program, whi
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of the most powerful mechanisms of
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A kiosk with food souvenirs is indi
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fact that it began to offer to thei
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One of the characteristic features
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Home Buddhist altar with offerings
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mixture of old and new, with clear
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ather works as the basic social bon
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processes. Examining the strategies
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the sugar plantations of Hawai’i,
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‘Local’ sushi varieties of the
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Benihana restaurants operate a sush
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plate in front of you, chopped up i
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their enterprises a financial boost
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The late Hara Yōichi, the owner of
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obots in sushi making, and that in
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Yo!Sushi outlet on the concourse of
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A Wagamama menu, 2005.
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References Introduction 1 Michael A
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6 Ōhama and Yoshihara, Edo, Tōky
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54 John Mertz, Novel Japanese: Spac
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kigen, pp. 74, 80. 35 Basil H. Cham
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A Research Review, ed. H. J. Teuteb
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Kinenkai, ed., Sūji de miru Nihon
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Japan,, pp. 65, 93. 10 Sand, House
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61 Kumakura Isao, ‘Tea and Japan
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19 Imada Setsuko, ‘Dainiji sekai
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5 Noguchi Hokugen, ‘Shokumotsu ch
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also Chōsen Sōtokufu Shokusankyok
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Shokuryō Shinbunsha (Tokyo, 1990),
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ed. K. J. Cwiertka with B.C.A. Walr
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Japan: The Experience of Japan’s
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Glossary agemono ‘deep-fried dish
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with a variety of fillings and roll
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mirin and sugar: before being eaten
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Marianne Lien and Brigitte Nerlich,
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Agricultural Experiment Stations 58
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hotels, Western-style 39-40 Fujiya
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First Opium 17 Korean 136, 156, 187
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