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Shokuryō Shinbunsha (Tokyo, 1990), p. 786. See also www.mcdonalds.co.jp. 27 Yano, Sūji de miru Nihon no 100 nen, p. 337. 28 Asahi Shinbunsha, The Asahi Shimbun Japan Almanac 2006 (Tokyo, 2005), pp. 195, 200; Ishikawa, ‘Kōdo keizai seichōki ga umidashita shoku jijō’, p. 170. 29 Asahi, The Asahi Shimbun Japan Almanac 2006, p. 254. 30 John Clammer, Contemporary Urban Japan: A Sociology of Consumption (Oxford, 1997), pp. 40–41. See also John L. McCreery, Japanese Consumer Behavior: From Worker Bees to Wary Shoppers (Richmond, Surrey, 2000), and Joseph J. Tobin, ed., Re-made in Japan: Everyday Life and Consumer Taste in a Changing Society (New Haven, ct, and London, 1992). 31 See Japan-related press articles in www.licenseenews.com and www.mcspotlight.org. 32 ‘Trouble Brewing for Starbucks in Japan’, electronic document, www.siamfuture. com/asiannews/asiannewstxt.asp?aid=2471 (accessed 10 May 2006). 33 Koishihara Haruka, Sutābakkusu maniakkusu (Tokyo, 2001), p. 39. See also www.starbucks.co.jp. 34 ‘Starbucks Discoveries Milano (Espresso) Coffee Beverage Relaunched in Japan’, electronic document www.foodingredientsfirst.com/newsmaker_article.asp? idNewsMaker=10586&fSite=AO545&next=5 (accessed 10 May 2006). See also www.starbucks.co.jp/rtd. 35 Inge Maria Daniels, The Fame of Miyajima: Spirituality, Commodification and the Tourist Trade of Souvenirs in Japan, PhD thesis, University College London, 2001, pp. 141, 219. See also Kanzaki Noritake, Omiyage: Zōtō to tabi no Nihon bunka (Tokyo, 1997). 36 Theodore C. Bestor, Tsukiji: The Fish Market at the Center of the World (Berkeley, ca, 2004), pp. 146–7, 159–60. 37 Jennifer Robertson, ‘It Takes a Village: Internationalization and Nostalgia in Postwar Japan’, in Mirror of Modernity: Invented Traditions of Modern Japan, ed. S. Vlastos (Berkeley, ca, 1998), pp. 110–29; See also Marilyn Ivy, Discourses of the Vanishing: Modernity, Phantasm, Japan (Chicago, il, and London, 1995). 38 Erik C. Rath, ‘How Does a Vegetable Become “Traditional” in Kyoto?’, paper presented at the Annual Meeting of the American Anthropological Association, Washington, dc, 29 November 2001. See also www.pref.kyoto.jp/nosan/yasai/. 39 Raymond A. Jussaume Jr, Hisano Shūji and Taniguchi Yoshimitsu, ‘Food Safety in Modern Japan’, in Japanstudien 12: Essen und Ernährung im Modernen Japan, ed. N. Liscutin and R. Haak (Munich, 2000), pp. 217–18. 40 Darrell Gene Moen, ‘Grassroots-based Organic Food Distributors, Retailers and Consumer Cooperatives in Japan: Broadening the Organic Farming Movement’, Hitotsubashi Journal of Social Studies, 32 (2000), p. 56. 41 Ibid., pp. 57–8. 42 Darrell Gene Moen, ‘The Japanese Organic Farming Movement: Consumers and Farmers United’, Bulletin of Concerned Asian Scholars, xxix/3 (1997), p. 14. See also Moen, ‘Grassroots-based Organic Food’, pp. 60–73. 43 Moen, ‘Grassroots-based Organic Food’, p. 74. 222
44 Seikatsu Jōhō Sentā Henshūbu, ed., Mosu no kokoro: Mosu bāgā hātofuru bukku (Tokyo, 2006), p. 135. 45 Jussaume, Hisano and Taniguchi, ‘Food Safety in Modern Japan’, p. 221. 46 Seikatsu Jōhō Sentā Henshūbu, Mosu no kokoro, pp. 34–61. 47 Ibid., pp. 12–25. 48 Jane Cobbi, ‘Sonaemono: Ritual Gifts to the Deities’, in Ceremony and Ritual in Japan, ed. J. van Bremen and D. P. Martinez (Richmond, Surrey, 1995), pp. 201–9. 49 Robert J. Smith, Ancestor Worship in Contemporary Japan (Stanford, ca, 1974), pp. 90–91, 105, 133–4. Conclusion: The Making of a National Cuisine 1 Harada Nobuo, Washoku to Nihon bunka: Nihon ryōri no shakai shi (Tokyo, 2005), p. 10. 2 Ernest Gellner, Nationalism (London, 1997), p. 94. 3 John Tomlinson, Globalization and Culture (Cambridge, 1999), pp. 20–31, 43. 4 Gellner, Nationalism, p. 26, 51. 5 Rupert Emerson quoted in John Hutchinson, Modern Nationalism (London, 1994), p. 13. 6 Benedict Anderson, Imagined Communities (London, 1991), p. 6. 7 Gellner, Nationalism, pp. 20, 45. 8 Catherine Palmer, ‘From Theory to Practice: Experiencing the Nation in Everyday Life’, Journal of Material Culture, iii/2 (1998), p. 182. 9 Anne Murcott, ‘Food as an Expression of Identity’, in The Future of the Nation State: Essays on Cultural Pluralism and Political Integration, ed. S. Gustavsson and L. Lewin (London, 1996), pp. 50–51 10 Ibid., p. 69. 11 Lewis M. Barker, ‘Building Memories for Foods’, in Psychobiology of Human Food Selection, ed. L. M. Barker (Westport, ct, 1982), pp. 85–99; David E. Sutton, Remembrance of Repasts: An Anthropology of Food and Memory (Oxford and New York, 2001), pp. 159–71; Efrat Ben-Ze’ev, ‘The Politics of Taste and Smell: Palestinian Rites of Return’, in The Politics of Food, ed. M. E. Lien and B. Nerlich (Oxford and New York, 2004), pp. 142–6. 12 Eric Hobsbawm, ‘Introduction: Inventing Traditions’, in The Invention of Tradition, ed. E. Hobsbawm and T. Ranger (Cambridge, 1983), pp. 1–14. 13 Richard Wilk, ‘Food and Nationalism: The Origins of “Belizean Food”’, in Food Nations: Selling Taste in Consumer Societies, ed. W. Belasco and P. Scranton (New York and London, 2002), p. 70. 14 Igor Cusack, ‘African Cuisines: Recipes for Nation-Building?’, Journal of African Cultural Studies, xiii/2 (2000), pp. 207–25; Arjun Appadurai, ‘How to Make a National Cuisine: Cookbooks in Contemporary India’, Comparative Study of Society and History, xxx/1 (1988), pp. 3–24; Jeffrey Pilcher, Que Vivan los Tamales! Food and the Making of Mexican Identity (Albuquerque, nm, 1998). 15 Katarzyna J. Cwiertka, ‘Introduction’, in Asian Food: The Global and the Local, 223
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Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
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Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
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Contents Introduction 7 1 Western F
Page 10 and 11:
A contemporary home meal. (Chikuzen
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multiculturalism in contemporary Ja
Page 14 and 15:
themselves experts on it. They all
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entremets Pudding à la Diplomate M
Page 18 and 19:
controlled the emperor. The only st
Page 20 and 21:
Eating for ‘Civilization and Enli
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the daily life of the Palace at all
Page 24 and 25:
The new faces, the old historical n
Page 26 and 27:
was to become the crucial strategy
Page 28 and 29:
concern ‘to preserve draft animal
Page 30 and 31:
various types of meat indicates tha
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Westerners slaughtering and butcher
Page 34 and 35:
Japanese enjoying beef stew, from K
Page 36 and 37:
of the meat-eating taboo fitted per
Page 38 and 39:
Foreign settlement house in Yokoham
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My health is miserable, my appetite
Page 42 and 43:
Dining-room of the Grand Hotel in Y
Page 44 and 45:
William Gray Dixon (1854-1928), who
Page 46 and 47:
opened in 1863, may have been prece
Page 48 and 49:
Prices of set menus at top Western-
Page 50 and 51:
Poached eggs Omelettes Beefsteak Co
Page 52 and 53:
uilding blocks for the new dining s
Page 54 and 55:
Lunch room at the Takashimaya depar
Page 56 and 57:
interconnectedness between food-pro
Page 58 and 59:
Three Strengthening the Military Fa
Page 60 and 61:
further inhibited their diffusion.
Page 62 and 63:
the hope of increasing sales, Ichit
Page 64 and 65:
in Meiji Japan. Yanagisawa Sakichi
Page 66 and 67:
dwarfish - too small, in fact, for
Page 68 and 69:
quo, by discarding the prevailing p
Page 70 and 71:
usually consisted of a bowl of rice
Page 72 and 73:
Modernizing Military Catering Berib
Page 74 and 75:
availability of foodstuffs. Moreove
Page 76 and 77:
Fried rice Boiled rice and barley s
Page 78 and 79:
were easiest to procure on location
Page 80 and 81:
in the military was also far above
Page 82 and 83:
division (and its location) Imperia
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homogenizing effect of industrially
Page 86 and 87:
Conscripts at table, 1938. new tast
Page 88 and 89:
Soldiers preparing rice balls, 1937
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Although serving the interests of t
Page 92 and 93:
‘A Page from the Accounting Book
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A middle-class family at dinner, a
Page 96 and 97:
An urban working family at a shared
Page 98 and 99:
An issue of the magazine Fujin zass
Page 100 and 101:
ecame a standard sight at Western-i
Page 102 and 103:
they affected the cooking practices
Page 104 and 105:
to try new recipes and made homemak
Page 106 and 107:
A weekly menu (side dishes to be se
Page 108 and 109:
An array of methods was employed by
Page 110 and 111:
were sweet azuki bean soup with mil
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The style is known nowadays under t
Page 114 and 115:
However, the principles of beauty o
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Japanese home cookery for future ge
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City dwellers planting vegetables b
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The ‘Rising Sun Lunch Box’ (Hin
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conscription made modern nation sta
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made public on a daily basis by the
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menus - were propagated as an examp
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Ship’s biscuits factory, c. 1940s
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than rice (which became increasingl
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In the long run, the wartime ration
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Wartime communal cooking provided a
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Defeat: Japan in the Wake of World
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1955 Eiyō no seirigaku [Physiology
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Six The Culinary Consequences of Ja
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hishio, is recorded to have been us
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A Chinese servant waiting on Wester
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Chinatown restaurant. Only a handfu
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A typical rāmen restaurant in rura
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kyōkasho (‘Catering Textbook for
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was supplied, largely illegally, by
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historically embedded than is gener
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Kimch’i production in Japan, 1980
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Seven Multiple Circuits of Affluenc
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School lunch centred on bread and m
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The emergence of a consumer market
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the catering departments of each sc
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Japan’s school lunch program, whi
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of the most powerful mechanisms of
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A kiosk with food souvenirs is indi
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fact that it began to offer to thei
Page 174 and 175: One of the characteristic features
Page 176 and 177: Home Buddhist altar with offerings
Page 178 and 179: mixture of old and new, with clear
Page 180 and 181: ather works as the basic social bon
Page 182 and 183: processes. Examining the strategies
Page 184 and 185: the sugar plantations of Hawai’i,
Page 186 and 187: ‘Local’ sushi varieties of the
Page 188 and 189: Benihana restaurants operate a sush
Page 190 and 191: plate in front of you, chopped up i
Page 192 and 193: their enterprises a financial boost
Page 194 and 195: The late Hara Yōichi, the owner of
Page 196 and 197: obots in sushi making, and that in
Page 198 and 199: Yo!Sushi outlet on the concourse of
Page 200 and 201: A Wagamama menu, 2005.
Page 202 and 203: References Introduction 1 Michael A
Page 204 and 205: 6 Ōhama and Yoshihara, Edo, Tōky
Page 206 and 207: 54 John Mertz, Novel Japanese: Spac
Page 208 and 209: kigen, pp. 74, 80. 35 Basil H. Cham
Page 210 and 211: A Research Review, ed. H. J. Teuteb
Page 212 and 213: Kinenkai, ed., Sūji de miru Nihon
Page 214 and 215: Japan,, pp. 65, 93. 10 Sand, House
Page 216 and 217: 61 Kumakura Isao, ‘Tea and Japan
Page 218 and 219: 19 Imada Setsuko, ‘Dainiji sekai
Page 220 and 221: 5 Noguchi Hokugen, ‘Shokumotsu ch
Page 222 and 223: also Chōsen Sōtokufu Shokusankyok
Page 226 and 227: ed. K. J. Cwiertka with B.C.A. Walr
Page 228 and 229: Japan: The Experience of Japan’s
Page 230 and 231: Glossary agemono ‘deep-fried dish
Page 232 and 233: with a variety of fillings and roll
Page 234 and 235: mirin and sugar: before being eaten
Page 236 and 237: Marianne Lien and Brigitte Nerlich,
Page 238 and 239: Agricultural Experiment Stations 58
Page 240 and 241: hotels, Western-style 39-40 Fujiya
Page 242: First Opium 17 Korean 136, 156, 187
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