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processes. Examining the strategies and agencies through which the remaking of Japan’s culinary past has been deployed so far is a topic that deserves a narrative of its own, but remains outside the scope of this one. The principal aim of this book was to unveil the real story – a fascinating trajectory of the making of a Japanese national cuisine. 180
Postscript Japanese Cuisine Goes Global Today, Japanese cuisine ranks among the major global culinary genres. During the last two decades, Japanese food has succeeded in penetrating a wide spectrum of the First World’s gastronomy – from posh dining to healthy meal to a quick bite, Japanese cuisine is present in practically every niche of the constantly diversifying restaurant market. 1 While classic establishments proudly dish up craftsmanship and tradition for the connoisseurs of exclusive dining, teppanyaki steak-houses provide culinary entertainment to those with less privileged taste buds, and sushi and noodle bars – with their informal atmosphere and innovative menus – appeal to young audiences. As the position of Japanese cuisine shifted from the periphery to the centre of North American and European dining, the dependence on Japanese know-how and ingredients imported from Japan steadily declined. Nowadays, Japanese restaurants that operate in Europe and the United States, except perhaps for the most exclusive establishments, rely largely on local recourses. They are influenced less by Tokyo and more directly by trends in Los Angeles, New York and London, which are the centres for new connections in Japanese cuisine as part of global culture. As this chapter will clarify, Japanese cuisine kept changing in the course of its global journey. Like Japanese cuisine in Japan, Japanese cuisine outside Japan was shaped by a variety of players, from macro-economic and political forces to the individual initiatives of chefs and entrepreneurs, and finally the tastes of the local public. The overseas dispersal of the Japanese – both immigrants and expatriate businessmen – constituted the foundation of the global spread of Japanese cuisine. The first official dispatch of Japanese overseas contract labourers took place in 1885 – at the time when the construction of a Japanese national cuisine described in this book began. They were hired to work on 181
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Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
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Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
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Contents Introduction 7 1 Western F
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A contemporary home meal. (Chikuzen
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multiculturalism in contemporary Ja
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themselves experts on it. They all
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entremets Pudding à la Diplomate M
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controlled the emperor. The only st
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Eating for ‘Civilization and Enli
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the daily life of the Palace at all
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The new faces, the old historical n
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was to become the crucial strategy
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concern ‘to preserve draft animal
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various types of meat indicates tha
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Westerners slaughtering and butcher
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Japanese enjoying beef stew, from K
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of the meat-eating taboo fitted per
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Foreign settlement house in Yokoham
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My health is miserable, my appetite
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Dining-room of the Grand Hotel in Y
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William Gray Dixon (1854-1928), who
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opened in 1863, may have been prece
Page 48 and 49:
Prices of set menus at top Western-
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Poached eggs Omelettes Beefsteak Co
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uilding blocks for the new dining s
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Lunch room at the Takashimaya depar
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interconnectedness between food-pro
Page 58 and 59:
Three Strengthening the Military Fa
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further inhibited their diffusion.
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the hope of increasing sales, Ichit
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in Meiji Japan. Yanagisawa Sakichi
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dwarfish - too small, in fact, for
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quo, by discarding the prevailing p
Page 70 and 71:
usually consisted of a bowl of rice
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Modernizing Military Catering Berib
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availability of foodstuffs. Moreove
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Fried rice Boiled rice and barley s
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were easiest to procure on location
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in the military was also far above
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division (and its location) Imperia
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homogenizing effect of industrially
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Conscripts at table, 1938. new tast
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Soldiers preparing rice balls, 1937
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Although serving the interests of t
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‘A Page from the Accounting Book
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A middle-class family at dinner, a
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An urban working family at a shared
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An issue of the magazine Fujin zass
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ecame a standard sight at Western-i
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they affected the cooking practices
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to try new recipes and made homemak
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A weekly menu (side dishes to be se
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An array of methods was employed by
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were sweet azuki bean soup with mil
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The style is known nowadays under t
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However, the principles of beauty o
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Japanese home cookery for future ge
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City dwellers planting vegetables b
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The ‘Rising Sun Lunch Box’ (Hin
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conscription made modern nation sta
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made public on a daily basis by the
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menus - were propagated as an examp
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Ship’s biscuits factory, c. 1940s
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than rice (which became increasingl
Page 132 and 133: In the long run, the wartime ration
Page 134 and 135: Wartime communal cooking provided a
Page 136 and 137: Defeat: Japan in the Wake of World
Page 138 and 139: 1955 Eiyō no seirigaku [Physiology
Page 140 and 141: Six The Culinary Consequences of Ja
Page 142 and 143: hishio, is recorded to have been us
Page 144 and 145: A Chinese servant waiting on Wester
Page 146 and 147: Chinatown restaurant. Only a handfu
Page 148 and 149: A typical rāmen restaurant in rura
Page 150 and 151: kyōkasho (‘Catering Textbook for
Page 152 and 153: was supplied, largely illegally, by
Page 154 and 155: historically embedded than is gener
Page 156 and 157: Kimch’i production in Japan, 1980
Page 158 and 159: Seven Multiple Circuits of Affluenc
Page 160 and 161: School lunch centred on bread and m
Page 162 and 163: The emergence of a consumer market
Page 164 and 165: the catering departments of each sc
Page 166 and 167: Japan’s school lunch program, whi
Page 168 and 169: of the most powerful mechanisms of
Page 170 and 171: A kiosk with food souvenirs is indi
Page 172 and 173: fact that it began to offer to thei
Page 174 and 175: One of the characteristic features
Page 176 and 177: Home Buddhist altar with offerings
Page 178 and 179: mixture of old and new, with clear
Page 180 and 181: ather works as the basic social bon
Page 184 and 185: the sugar plantations of Hawai’i,
Page 186 and 187: ‘Local’ sushi varieties of the
Page 188 and 189: Benihana restaurants operate a sush
Page 190 and 191: plate in front of you, chopped up i
Page 192 and 193: their enterprises a financial boost
Page 194 and 195: The late Hara Yōichi, the owner of
Page 196 and 197: obots in sushi making, and that in
Page 198 and 199: Yo!Sushi outlet on the concourse of
Page 200 and 201: A Wagamama menu, 2005.
Page 202 and 203: References Introduction 1 Michael A
Page 204 and 205: 6 Ōhama and Yoshihara, Edo, Tōky
Page 206 and 207: 54 John Mertz, Novel Japanese: Spac
Page 208 and 209: kigen, pp. 74, 80. 35 Basil H. Cham
Page 210 and 211: A Research Review, ed. H. J. Teuteb
Page 212 and 213: Kinenkai, ed., Sūji de miru Nihon
Page 214 and 215: Japan,, pp. 65, 93. 10 Sand, House
Page 216 and 217: 61 Kumakura Isao, ‘Tea and Japan
Page 218 and 219: 19 Imada Setsuko, ‘Dainiji sekai
Page 220 and 221: 5 Noguchi Hokugen, ‘Shokumotsu ch
Page 222 and 223: also Chōsen Sōtokufu Shokusankyok
Page 224 and 225: Shokuryō Shinbunsha (Tokyo, 1990),
Page 226 and 227: ed. K. J. Cwiertka with B.C.A. Walr
Page 228 and 229: Japan: The Experience of Japan’s
Page 230 and 231: Glossary agemono ‘deep-fried dish
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with a variety of fillings and roll
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mirin and sugar: before being eaten
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Marianne Lien and Brigitte Nerlich,
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Agricultural Experiment Stations 58
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hotels, Western-style 39-40 Fujiya
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First Opium 17 Korean 136, 156, 187
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