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ed. K. J. Cwiertka with B.C.A. Walraven (Honolulu, hi, 2002), pp. 1‒15. 16 Alan Warde, ‘Eating Globally: Cultural Flows and the Spread of Ethnic Restaurants’, in The Ends of Globalization: Bringing Society Back In, ed. D. Kalb et al. (Lanham, md, 2000), pp. 306–9. See also Ian Cook and Philip Crang, ‘The World on a Plate: Displacement and Geographical Knowledge’, Journal of Material Culture, i/2 (1996), pp. 131–53. 17 See Christopher Driver, The British at Table, 1940–1980 (London, 1983), and Susanne Mühleisen, ‘Globalized Tongues: The Cultural Semantics of Food Names’, in Eating Culture: The Poetics and Politics of Food Today, ed. T. Döring, M. Heide and S. Mühleisen (Heidelberg, 2003), pp. 71–88. 18 Sidney W. Mintz, ‘Eating Communities: The Mixed Appeals of Sodality’, in Eating Culture: The Poetics and Politics of Food Today, p. 26. See also Lisa M. Heldke, Exotic Appetites: Ruminations of a Food Adventurer (New York and London, 2003). 19 Susan J. Terrio, ‘Crafting Grand Cru Chocolates in Contemporary France’, in The Cultural Politics of Food and Eating: A Reader, ed. J. L. Watson and M. L. Caldwell (New York and London, 2005), p. 149. Postscript: Japanese Cuisine Goes Global 1 The following database is a reliable resource on Japanese restaurants operating outside Japan: www.sushi.infogate.de (accessed 5 January 2006). For a more elaborate account of the Japanese food boom in Europe, see Katarzyna J. Cwiertka, ‘From Ethnic to Hip: Circuits of Japanese Cuisine in Europe’, Food and Foodways, xiii/4 (2005), pp. 241–72. 2 Stewart Lone, The Japanese Community in Brazil, 1908–1940: Between Samurai and Carnival (Basingstoke and New York, 2001), pp. 13–16. 3 Louise Young, Japan’s Total Empire: Manchuria and the Culture of Wartime Imperialism (Berkeley, ca, 1998), p. 314; Peter Duus, The Abacus and the Sword: The Japanese Penetration of Korea, 1895–1910 (Berkeley, ca, 1995), p. 290; Roger Daniels, Asian America: Chinese and Japanese in the United States since 1850 (Seattle, wa, and London, 1988), pp. 115, 127. 4 Daniels, Asian America, pp. 214–17. 5 Koyama Shūzō, ‘Nihon ryōriten no seiritsu to tenkai’, in Los Angeles no Nihon ryōriten: Sono bunka jinruigaku kenkyū, ed. N. Ishige et al. (Tokyo, 1985), p. 37. 6 Warren Belasco, Appetite for Change: How the Counterculture Took on the Food Industry (Ithaca, ny, 1989), pp. 43–67. 7 Theodore C. Bestor, ‘How Sushi Went Global’, in The Cultural Politics of Food and Eating: A Reader, ed. J. L. Watson and M. L. Caldwell (New York and London, 2005), pp. 14–15. 8 Theodore C. Bestor, ‘Main Street Sushi: The Americanization of Japanese Cuisine’, paper presented at the symposium Japanese Cuisine in the West, Leiden University, 20 June 2001. 9 Nobuyuki Matsuhisa, Nobu: The Cookbook (London, 2001). See also 224
www.noburestaurants.com. 10 ‘Sukiyaki Hausu San Furanshisuko’, Asahigurafu, iv/6 (1955), p. 8. 11 Yano Tsuneta Kinenkai, ed., Sūji de miru Nihon no 100 nen: 20 seiki ga wakaru dētā bukku (Tokyo, 2000), pp. 376–7. See also Fujiwara Sadao, ‘Foreign Trade, Investment and Industrial Imperialism in Postwar Japan’, in Japanese Capitalism since 1945: Critical Perspectives, ed. T. Morris-Suzuki and T. Seiyama (Armonk, ny, and London, 1989), pp. 166–206. 12 Merry White, The Japanese Overseas: Can They Go Home Again? (Princeton, nj, 1988), p. 17. 13 Asahi Shinbunsha, The Asahi Shimbun Japan Almanac 2006 (Tokyo, 2005), p. 90. 14 Harumi Befu, ‘Globalization as Human Dispersal: From the Perspective of Japan’, in Globalization and Social Change in Contemporary Japan, ed. J. S. Eades, T. Gill, and H. Befu (Melbourne, 2000), pp. 29–33. 15 For details about the enterprise, see www.benihana.com. 16 Ishige Naomichi, ‘Guriru Misono: Teppanyaki no genso to shite no hatten’, in Gurume City Kobe: Oishisa no haikei (Kobe, 1997), pp. 136–9. 17 Ishige Naomichi, ‘Seihō yūshoku: Teppanyaki sutēki Kōbe ga genso’, Keizai Shinbun, 22 November 1993. 18 Eugene Fodor and Robert C. Fisher, Fodor’s Guide to Japan and East Asia (New York, 1963), p. 179. 19 Japan Illustrated, 3 (1965), p. 36; Boye De Mente, International Business Man’s Afterhours Guide to Japan (Tokyo, 1968), pp. 131–2, 138, 145. 20 Japan National Tourist Organization, The New Official Guide: Japan (Tokyo, 1966), p. 547. 21 John Klug, Benihana of Tokyo, Harvard Business School Research Paper no. 9–673–057 (1995), pp. 1–2. 22 Ibid., p. 18. 23 Ibid., p. 16. 24 Personal Communication, Kikkoman Trading Europe, June 2001. See also www.daitokai.de. 25 Frank N. Pieke, ‘De Chinese gemeenschap in verstarring’, Sociologische Gids, xxxi/5 (1984), pp. 427–41. 26 Bestor, ‘How Sushi Went Global’, p. 18. 27 Keiko Itoh, The Japanese Community in Pre-War Britain: From Integration to Disintegration (Richmond, Surrey, 2001), pp. 2, 17; Young, Japan’s Total Empire, p. 315. 28 Paul White, ‘The Japanese in London: From Transience to Settlement?’, in Global Japan: The Experience of Japan’s New Immigrants and Overseas Communities, ed. Roger Goodman et al. (London, 2003), p. 80. 29 Asahi, Asahi Shimbun Japan Almanac 2006, p. 90. 30 Sanda Ionescu, ‘Soka Gakkai in Germany: The Story of a Qualified Success’, in Globalizing Japan: Ethnography of the Japanese Presence in Asia, ed. H. Befu and S. Guichard-Anguis (London, 2001), p. 103. See also Günter Glebe, ‘Segregation and the Ethnoscape: The Japanese Business Community in Düsseldorf ’, in Global 225
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Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
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Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
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Contents Introduction 7 1 Western F
Page 10 and 11:
A contemporary home meal. (Chikuzen
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multiculturalism in contemporary Ja
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themselves experts on it. They all
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entremets Pudding à la Diplomate M
Page 18 and 19:
controlled the emperor. The only st
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Eating for ‘Civilization and Enli
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the daily life of the Palace at all
Page 24 and 25:
The new faces, the old historical n
Page 26 and 27:
was to become the crucial strategy
Page 28 and 29:
concern ‘to preserve draft animal
Page 30 and 31:
various types of meat indicates tha
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Westerners slaughtering and butcher
Page 34 and 35:
Japanese enjoying beef stew, from K
Page 36 and 37:
of the meat-eating taboo fitted per
Page 38 and 39:
Foreign settlement house in Yokoham
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My health is miserable, my appetite
Page 42 and 43:
Dining-room of the Grand Hotel in Y
Page 44 and 45:
William Gray Dixon (1854-1928), who
Page 46 and 47:
opened in 1863, may have been prece
Page 48 and 49:
Prices of set menus at top Western-
Page 50 and 51:
Poached eggs Omelettes Beefsteak Co
Page 52 and 53:
uilding blocks for the new dining s
Page 54 and 55:
Lunch room at the Takashimaya depar
Page 56 and 57:
interconnectedness between food-pro
Page 58 and 59:
Three Strengthening the Military Fa
Page 60 and 61:
further inhibited their diffusion.
Page 62 and 63:
the hope of increasing sales, Ichit
Page 64 and 65:
in Meiji Japan. Yanagisawa Sakichi
Page 66 and 67:
dwarfish - too small, in fact, for
Page 68 and 69:
quo, by discarding the prevailing p
Page 70 and 71:
usually consisted of a bowl of rice
Page 72 and 73:
Modernizing Military Catering Berib
Page 74 and 75:
availability of foodstuffs. Moreove
Page 76 and 77:
Fried rice Boiled rice and barley s
Page 78 and 79:
were easiest to procure on location
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in the military was also far above
Page 82 and 83:
division (and its location) Imperia
Page 84 and 85:
homogenizing effect of industrially
Page 86 and 87:
Conscripts at table, 1938. new tast
Page 88 and 89:
Soldiers preparing rice balls, 1937
Page 90 and 91:
Although serving the interests of t
Page 92 and 93:
‘A Page from the Accounting Book
Page 94 and 95:
A middle-class family at dinner, a
Page 96 and 97:
An urban working family at a shared
Page 98 and 99:
An issue of the magazine Fujin zass
Page 100 and 101:
ecame a standard sight at Western-i
Page 102 and 103:
they affected the cooking practices
Page 104 and 105:
to try new recipes and made homemak
Page 106 and 107:
A weekly menu (side dishes to be se
Page 108 and 109:
An array of methods was employed by
Page 110 and 111:
were sweet azuki bean soup with mil
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The style is known nowadays under t
Page 114 and 115:
However, the principles of beauty o
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Japanese home cookery for future ge
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City dwellers planting vegetables b
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The ‘Rising Sun Lunch Box’ (Hin
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conscription made modern nation sta
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made public on a daily basis by the
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menus - were propagated as an examp
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Ship’s biscuits factory, c. 1940s
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than rice (which became increasingl
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In the long run, the wartime ration
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Wartime communal cooking provided a
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Defeat: Japan in the Wake of World
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1955 Eiyō no seirigaku [Physiology
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Six The Culinary Consequences of Ja
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hishio, is recorded to have been us
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A Chinese servant waiting on Wester
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Chinatown restaurant. Only a handfu
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A typical rāmen restaurant in rura
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kyōkasho (‘Catering Textbook for
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was supplied, largely illegally, by
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historically embedded than is gener
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Kimch’i production in Japan, 1980
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Seven Multiple Circuits of Affluenc
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School lunch centred on bread and m
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The emergence of a consumer market
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the catering departments of each sc
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Japan’s school lunch program, whi
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of the most powerful mechanisms of
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A kiosk with food souvenirs is indi
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fact that it began to offer to thei
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One of the characteristic features
Page 176 and 177: Home Buddhist altar with offerings
Page 178 and 179: mixture of old and new, with clear
Page 180 and 181: ather works as the basic social bon
Page 182 and 183: processes. Examining the strategies
Page 184 and 185: the sugar plantations of Hawai’i,
Page 186 and 187: ‘Local’ sushi varieties of the
Page 188 and 189: Benihana restaurants operate a sush
Page 190 and 191: plate in front of you, chopped up i
Page 192 and 193: their enterprises a financial boost
Page 194 and 195: The late Hara Yōichi, the owner of
Page 196 and 197: obots in sushi making, and that in
Page 198 and 199: Yo!Sushi outlet on the concourse of
Page 200 and 201: A Wagamama menu, 2005.
Page 202 and 203: References Introduction 1 Michael A
Page 204 and 205: 6 Ōhama and Yoshihara, Edo, Tōky
Page 206 and 207: 54 John Mertz, Novel Japanese: Spac
Page 208 and 209: kigen, pp. 74, 80. 35 Basil H. Cham
Page 210 and 211: A Research Review, ed. H. J. Teuteb
Page 212 and 213: Kinenkai, ed., Sūji de miru Nihon
Page 214 and 215: Japan,, pp. 65, 93. 10 Sand, House
Page 216 and 217: 61 Kumakura Isao, ‘Tea and Japan
Page 218 and 219: 19 Imada Setsuko, ‘Dainiji sekai
Page 220 and 221: 5 Noguchi Hokugen, ‘Shokumotsu ch
Page 222 and 223: also Chōsen Sōtokufu Shokusankyok
Page 224 and 225: Shokuryō Shinbunsha (Tokyo, 1990),
Page 228 and 229: Japan: The Experience of Japan’s
Page 230 and 231: Glossary agemono ‘deep-fried dish
Page 232 and 233: with a variety of fillings and roll
Page 234 and 235: mirin and sugar: before being eaten
Page 236 and 237: Marianne Lien and Brigitte Nerlich,
Page 238 and 239: Agricultural Experiment Stations 58
Page 240 and 241: hotels, Western-style 39-40 Fujiya
Page 242: First Opium 17 Korean 136, 156, 187
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