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Wartime communal cooking provided another incentive for dietary homogenization. With the introduction of food rationing, the position of the family as the basic unit of consumption was shifted to the ‘neighbourhood associations’ (tonarigumi). From 1940 towns and villages were divided into ‘neighbourhood associations’, comprising approximately 10–20 households, and ‘block associations’ (chōnaikai), consisting of approximately twenty ‘neighbourhood associations’. Food rations were allocated not to individuals or families, but to ‘neighbourhood associations’. This necessitated the joint purchase of food and joint cooking by the members of each association. The land for vegetable gardens and the seeds were also allotted to the ‘neighbourhood association’ as a unit. Dieticians employed at the government-controlled food distribution centres provided the associations with recipes and other advice on how to cook the relatively unknown foodstuffs in an efficient manner. 46 Since this knowledge was manufactured at the centralized organs of the state, it greatly contributed to dietary homogenization. We may presume that in the circumstances of communal dining, the distributed advice was followed more closely than would have been the case in individual family kitchens. It is difficult, if not impossible, to assess whether the dissemination of practical advice on nutrition by the wartime authorities made a difference in the daily struggle for survival. Half of the troops that the Japanese Imperial Army lost between 1937 and 1945 died not on the battlefield but from starvation and malnutrition-related diseases. 47 These figures do not necessarily discredit the military catering system and military nutritional policies. They simply imply that the logistical capacities of the Japanese armed forces were unable to catch up with the expansionist ambitions of their leaders. The food supply at the home front deteriorated hand in hand with the losses at the front line. By 1944 the content of public campaigns had shifted from rice substitutes and instructions on maintaining vegetable gardens to emergency advice on edible weeds and how to use eggshells and brew soy sauce out of fish bones. Advertisements of various nutritional supplements frequently appeared in the printed media. For example, the Yeast Plant Institute in Uji developed a remedy for indigestion in the form of yeast-based pills, and Hoshi Pharmaceutics invented heroin-based pills, which were supposed to stimulate digestion, relieve constipation and generally improve the physical constitution. The product marketed under the name Shokueiso was advertised as a cooking activator that improved the taste of food, removed the bad smell of stale ingredients, softened fibrous vegetables and generally halved the cooking time. 48 These desperate attempts to nourish the nation through the use of 132
Advertisement for the food additive Shokueiso, 1944. chemical supplements explicitly illustrate the persistent trust of the wartime government, and perhaps the public as well, in scientific solutions to remedy food shortages. The Legacy of War The suffering of the home front became most severe in the immediate post-war years. On the top of millions of hungry Japanese in the homeland, more than six million military men and civilians who by 1948 had been repatriated from the colonies and occupied territories had to be fed. The late spring and summer of 1946 are recorded as the time of the most serious food crisis in Japan’s modern history. In his bestseller, Embracing 133
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Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
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Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
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Contents Introduction 7 1 Western F
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A contemporary home meal. (Chikuzen
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multiculturalism in contemporary Ja
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themselves experts on it. They all
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entremets Pudding à la Diplomate M
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controlled the emperor. The only st
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Eating for ‘Civilization and Enli
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the daily life of the Palace at all
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The new faces, the old historical n
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was to become the crucial strategy
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concern ‘to preserve draft animal
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various types of meat indicates tha
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Westerners slaughtering and butcher
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Japanese enjoying beef stew, from K
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of the meat-eating taboo fitted per
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Foreign settlement house in Yokoham
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My health is miserable, my appetite
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Dining-room of the Grand Hotel in Y
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William Gray Dixon (1854-1928), who
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opened in 1863, may have been prece
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Prices of set menus at top Western-
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Poached eggs Omelettes Beefsteak Co
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uilding blocks for the new dining s
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Lunch room at the Takashimaya depar
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interconnectedness between food-pro
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Three Strengthening the Military Fa
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further inhibited their diffusion.
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the hope of increasing sales, Ichit
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in Meiji Japan. Yanagisawa Sakichi
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dwarfish - too small, in fact, for
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quo, by discarding the prevailing p
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usually consisted of a bowl of rice
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Modernizing Military Catering Berib
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availability of foodstuffs. Moreove
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Fried rice Boiled rice and barley s
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were easiest to procure on location
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in the military was also far above
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division (and its location) Imperia
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Page 86 and 87: Conscripts at table, 1938. new tast
Page 88 and 89: Soldiers preparing rice balls, 1937
Page 90 and 91: Although serving the interests of t
Page 92 and 93: ‘A Page from the Accounting Book
Page 94 and 95: A middle-class family at dinner, a
Page 96 and 97: An urban working family at a shared
Page 98 and 99: An issue of the magazine Fujin zass
Page 100 and 101: ecame a standard sight at Western-i
Page 102 and 103: they affected the cooking practices
Page 104 and 105: to try new recipes and made homemak
Page 106 and 107: A weekly menu (side dishes to be se
Page 108 and 109: An array of methods was employed by
Page 110 and 111: were sweet azuki bean soup with mil
Page 112 and 113: The style is known nowadays under t
Page 114 and 115: However, the principles of beauty o
Page 116 and 117: Japanese home cookery for future ge
Page 118 and 119: City dwellers planting vegetables b
Page 120 and 121: The ‘Rising Sun Lunch Box’ (Hin
Page 122 and 123: conscription made modern nation sta
Page 124 and 125: made public on a daily basis by the
Page 126 and 127: menus - were propagated as an examp
Page 128 and 129: Ship’s biscuits factory, c. 1940s
Page 130 and 131: than rice (which became increasingl
Page 132 and 133: In the long run, the wartime ration
Page 136 and 137: Defeat: Japan in the Wake of World
Page 138 and 139: 1955 Eiyō no seirigaku [Physiology
Page 140 and 141: Six The Culinary Consequences of Ja
Page 142 and 143: hishio, is recorded to have been us
Page 144 and 145: A Chinese servant waiting on Wester
Page 146 and 147: Chinatown restaurant. Only a handfu
Page 148 and 149: A typical rāmen restaurant in rura
Page 150 and 151: kyōkasho (‘Catering Textbook for
Page 152 and 153: was supplied, largely illegally, by
Page 154 and 155: historically embedded than is gener
Page 156 and 157: Kimch’i production in Japan, 1980
Page 158 and 159: Seven Multiple Circuits of Affluenc
Page 160 and 161: School lunch centred on bread and m
Page 162 and 163: The emergence of a consumer market
Page 164 and 165: the catering departments of each sc
Page 166 and 167: Japan’s school lunch program, whi
Page 168 and 169: of the most powerful mechanisms of
Page 170 and 171: A kiosk with food souvenirs is indi
Page 172 and 173: fact that it began to offer to thei
Page 174 and 175: One of the characteristic features
Page 176 and 177: Home Buddhist altar with offerings
Page 178 and 179: mixture of old and new, with clear
Page 180 and 181: ather works as the basic social bon
Page 182 and 183: processes. Examining the strategies
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the sugar plantations of Hawai’i,
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‘Local’ sushi varieties of the
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Benihana restaurants operate a sush
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plate in front of you, chopped up i
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their enterprises a financial boost
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The late Hara Yōichi, the owner of
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obots in sushi making, and that in
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Yo!Sushi outlet on the concourse of
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A Wagamama menu, 2005.
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References Introduction 1 Michael A
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6 Ōhama and Yoshihara, Edo, Tōky
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54 John Mertz, Novel Japanese: Spac
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kigen, pp. 74, 80. 35 Basil H. Cham
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A Research Review, ed. H. J. Teuteb
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Kinenkai, ed., Sūji de miru Nihon
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Japan,, pp. 65, 93. 10 Sand, House
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61 Kumakura Isao, ‘Tea and Japan
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19 Imada Setsuko, ‘Dainiji sekai
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5 Noguchi Hokugen, ‘Shokumotsu ch
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also Chōsen Sōtokufu Shokusankyok
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Shokuryō Shinbunsha (Tokyo, 1990),
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ed. K. J. Cwiertka with B.C.A. Walr
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Japan: The Experience of Japan’s
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Glossary agemono ‘deep-fried dish
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with a variety of fillings and roll
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mirin and sugar: before being eaten
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Marianne Lien and Brigitte Nerlich,
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Agricultural Experiment Stations 58
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hotels, Western-style 39-40 Fujiya
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First Opium 17 Korean 136, 156, 187
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