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division (and its location) Imperial Guards, 2nd infantry (Tokyo) 1st division 49th infantry (Kōfu) 2nd division 30th infantry (Takada) 3rd division 18th infantry (Toyohashi) 4th division 61st infantry (Wakayama) 5th division 11th infantry (Hiroshima) 6th division 45th infantry (Kagoshima) 7th division 27th infantry (Asahigawa) 8th division 5th infantry (Aomori) 9th division 9th infantry (Kanazawa) 10th division 39th infantry (Himeji) A selection of side dishes served in the Imperial Japanese Army in January 1927. 82 deepfried, breaded fish or meat MISO soup with pork, vegetables and sweet potatoes 80 stew rice curry 3 2 1 – – 3 2 1 1 4 2 5 – 2 5 – – – – – 2 – – 4 4 4 – – 2 2 – 2 – 1 6 1 1 1 2 1 2 2 1 – 1 2 – – 1 7 6 4 2 3 2 Taiwan 1st – 3 1 2 4 Kwantung 2nd (Hōten) 2 – – 3 4 simmered (canned) fish or meat with vegetables
Soy sauce supply for the troops, c. 1937. pre-modern Japan showed a considerable regional variation. By the eighteenth century the best-quality soy sauce was produced by commercial brewers clustered in large cities, in particular Edo, while the rural population relied overwhelmingly on home-made soybean paste (miso) for flavouring. 83 The use of soy sauce by most farm households, which were largely self-sufficient in food, was restricted to special occasions such as festivals and weddings. They purchased soy sauce from local brewers, since only wealthy farmers could afford to brew soy sauce at home. The situation was different in central Japan (Aichi, Mie and Gifu prefectures), where so-called tamari shōyu – much less complex in manufacture and different in taste from the conventional soy sauce consumed in cities – was brewed in most households. 84 Throughout the twentieth century, owing to urbanization, rising standards of living and a shift towards industrialized mass manufacture, not only did soy sauce become the dominant flavouring for the ever increasing number of Japanese, but its taste was becoming increasingly standardized. This was due to the modernization of production, which came to rely more and more on chemical knowledge and machinery rather than centuries-old know-how and experience among regional brewers. Moreover, the market share of major manufacturers steadily increased and hundreds of local varieties were gradually replaced by national brands. 85 In 1937 the five largest firms were responsible for a quarter of Japanese soy sauce production. 86 The soy sauce case illustrates perfectly the increasingly 81
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Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
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Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
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Contents Introduction 7 1 Western F
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A contemporary home meal. (Chikuzen
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multiculturalism in contemporary Ja
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themselves experts on it. They all
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entremets Pudding à la Diplomate M
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controlled the emperor. The only st
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Eating for ‘Civilization and Enli
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the daily life of the Palace at all
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The new faces, the old historical n
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was to become the crucial strategy
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concern ‘to preserve draft animal
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various types of meat indicates tha
Page 32 and 33: Westerners slaughtering and butcher
Page 34 and 35: Japanese enjoying beef stew, from K
Page 36 and 37: of the meat-eating taboo fitted per
Page 38 and 39: Foreign settlement house in Yokoham
Page 40 and 41: My health is miserable, my appetite
Page 42 and 43: Dining-room of the Grand Hotel in Y
Page 44 and 45: William Gray Dixon (1854-1928), who
Page 46 and 47: opened in 1863, may have been prece
Page 48 and 49: Prices of set menus at top Western-
Page 50 and 51: Poached eggs Omelettes Beefsteak Co
Page 52 and 53: uilding blocks for the new dining s
Page 54 and 55: Lunch room at the Takashimaya depar
Page 56 and 57: interconnectedness between food-pro
Page 58 and 59: Three Strengthening the Military Fa
Page 60 and 61: further inhibited their diffusion.
Page 62 and 63: the hope of increasing sales, Ichit
Page 64 and 65: in Meiji Japan. Yanagisawa Sakichi
Page 66 and 67: dwarfish - too small, in fact, for
Page 68 and 69: quo, by discarding the prevailing p
Page 70 and 71: usually consisted of a bowl of rice
Page 72 and 73: Modernizing Military Catering Berib
Page 74 and 75: availability of foodstuffs. Moreove
Page 76 and 77: Fried rice Boiled rice and barley s
Page 78 and 79: were easiest to procure on location
Page 80 and 81: in the military was also far above
Page 84 and 85: homogenizing effect of industrially
Page 86 and 87: Conscripts at table, 1938. new tast
Page 88 and 89: Soldiers preparing rice balls, 1937
Page 90 and 91: Although serving the interests of t
Page 92 and 93: ‘A Page from the Accounting Book
Page 94 and 95: A middle-class family at dinner, a
Page 96 and 97: An urban working family at a shared
Page 98 and 99: An issue of the magazine Fujin zass
Page 100 and 101: ecame a standard sight at Western-i
Page 102 and 103: they affected the cooking practices
Page 104 and 105: to try new recipes and made homemak
Page 106 and 107: A weekly menu (side dishes to be se
Page 108 and 109: An array of methods was employed by
Page 110 and 111: were sweet azuki bean soup with mil
Page 112 and 113: The style is known nowadays under t
Page 114 and 115: However, the principles of beauty o
Page 116 and 117: Japanese home cookery for future ge
Page 118 and 119: City dwellers planting vegetables b
Page 120 and 121: The ‘Rising Sun Lunch Box’ (Hin
Page 122 and 123: conscription made modern nation sta
Page 124 and 125: made public on a daily basis by the
Page 126 and 127: menus - were propagated as an examp
Page 128 and 129: Ship’s biscuits factory, c. 1940s
Page 130 and 131: than rice (which became increasingl
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In the long run, the wartime ration
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Wartime communal cooking provided a
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Defeat: Japan in the Wake of World
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1955 Eiyō no seirigaku [Physiology
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Six The Culinary Consequences of Ja
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hishio, is recorded to have been us
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A Chinese servant waiting on Wester
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Chinatown restaurant. Only a handfu
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A typical rāmen restaurant in rura
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kyōkasho (‘Catering Textbook for
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was supplied, largely illegally, by
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historically embedded than is gener
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Kimch’i production in Japan, 1980
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Seven Multiple Circuits of Affluenc
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School lunch centred on bread and m
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The emergence of a consumer market
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the catering departments of each sc
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Japan’s school lunch program, whi
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of the most powerful mechanisms of
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A kiosk with food souvenirs is indi
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fact that it began to offer to thei
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One of the characteristic features
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Home Buddhist altar with offerings
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mixture of old and new, with clear
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ather works as the basic social bon
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processes. Examining the strategies
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the sugar plantations of Hawai’i,
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‘Local’ sushi varieties of the
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Benihana restaurants operate a sush
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plate in front of you, chopped up i
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their enterprises a financial boost
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The late Hara Yōichi, the owner of
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obots in sushi making, and that in
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Yo!Sushi outlet on the concourse of
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A Wagamama menu, 2005.
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References Introduction 1 Michael A
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6 Ōhama and Yoshihara, Edo, Tōky
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54 John Mertz, Novel Japanese: Spac
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kigen, pp. 74, 80. 35 Basil H. Cham
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A Research Review, ed. H. J. Teuteb
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Kinenkai, ed., Sūji de miru Nihon
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Japan,, pp. 65, 93. 10 Sand, House
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61 Kumakura Isao, ‘Tea and Japan
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19 Imada Setsuko, ‘Dainiji sekai
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5 Noguchi Hokugen, ‘Shokumotsu ch
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also Chōsen Sōtokufu Shokusankyok
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Shokuryō Shinbunsha (Tokyo, 1990),
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ed. K. J. Cwiertka with B.C.A. Walr
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Japan: The Experience of Japan’s
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Glossary agemono ‘deep-fried dish
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with a variety of fillings and roll
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mirin and sugar: before being eaten
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Marianne Lien and Brigitte Nerlich,
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Agricultural Experiment Stations 58
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hotels, Western-style 39-40 Fujiya
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First Opium 17 Korean 136, 156, 187
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