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Conscripts at table, 1938. new taste than to change one they had acquired in childhood. By serving foreign foods that were new to all recruits, army and navy cooks not only helped to level regional and social distinctions in the military, but also speeded up the process of nationalizing and homogenizing Japanese food tastes. Indeed, by the time that the (second) Sino-Japanese War broke out in 1937, curries, croquettes and Chinese stir-fries had become soldiers’ favourites and acquired a clear military connotation. Historical records indicate that many conscripts during the 1920s and ’30s considered food to be among the most memorable experiences of their time in the military. 91 Some even included entire menus in their diaries. The main impact of modern warfare on human food tastes may lie in the fact that the thousands of conscripts are not free to choose the food they eat, and that this experience shapes their future food preferences. 92 Military menus in Japan reinforced the nationwide spread of the ideal of rice as the centrepiece around which a meal was constructed, and of soy sauce as a crucial flavouring agent. The inclusion of side dishes that contained (canned) meat – motivated by the goal of strengthening the military – set army meals apart from the daily diet of the majority of the population. By virtue of their conscription, the sons of farmers and other lower-class households enjoyed the new ‘luxury’ of being sustained by menus that would have been considered too 84
Menu served in the 14th cavalry regiment, 21–30 March 1933. 93 date breakfast lunch dinner 21 March 1933 miso soup simmered burdock root and carrots 22 March 1933 miso soup noodles in curry sauce 23 March 1933 miso soup deep-fried, breaded fish or meat 24 March 1933 miso soup simmered beef on rice 25 March 1933 miso soup udo stalks in vinegar dressing 26 March 1933 miso soup soy-stewed pork and vegetables 27 March 1933 miso soup miso soup with pork, vegetables and sweet potatoes 28 March 1933 miso soup pork and vegetables in miso sauce 85 rice cakes (ohagi)*, udon noodles fish teriyaki rice with meat and vegetables flavoured with tomato sauce rice curry (no record) rice with vegetables and meat simmered squid with taros and lotus root udon noodles made of ship’s biscuits 29 March 1933 miso soup oden mackerel in miso sauce 30 March 1933 miso soup grilled pickled cod canned salmon and vegetable stew * We may presume that rice cakes were served especially on 21 March to celebrate the Spring Equinox, a national holiday at the time officially labelled Imperial Ancestors’ Spring Memorial Day. extravagant for daily consumption where they came from. Furthermore, a military canteen was for thousands of drafted peasant sons the site of their first encounter with eclectic dishes that represented multicultural urban mass gastronomy. On their discharge, the soldiers returned home and shared their newly acquired taste for Western and Chinese dishes
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Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
Page 5 and 6:
Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
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Contents Introduction 7 1 Western F
Page 10 and 11:
A contemporary home meal. (Chikuzen
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multiculturalism in contemporary Ja
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themselves experts on it. They all
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entremets Pudding à la Diplomate M
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controlled the emperor. The only st
Page 20 and 21:
Eating for ‘Civilization and Enli
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the daily life of the Palace at all
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The new faces, the old historical n
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was to become the crucial strategy
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concern ‘to preserve draft animal
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various types of meat indicates tha
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Westerners slaughtering and butcher
Page 34 and 35:
Japanese enjoying beef stew, from K
Page 36 and 37: of the meat-eating taboo fitted per
Page 38 and 39: Foreign settlement house in Yokoham
Page 40 and 41: My health is miserable, my appetite
Page 42 and 43: Dining-room of the Grand Hotel in Y
Page 44 and 45: William Gray Dixon (1854-1928), who
Page 46 and 47: opened in 1863, may have been prece
Page 48 and 49: Prices of set menus at top Western-
Page 50 and 51: Poached eggs Omelettes Beefsteak Co
Page 52 and 53: uilding blocks for the new dining s
Page 54 and 55: Lunch room at the Takashimaya depar
Page 56 and 57: interconnectedness between food-pro
Page 58 and 59: Three Strengthening the Military Fa
Page 60 and 61: further inhibited their diffusion.
Page 62 and 63: the hope of increasing sales, Ichit
Page 64 and 65: in Meiji Japan. Yanagisawa Sakichi
Page 66 and 67: dwarfish - too small, in fact, for
Page 68 and 69: quo, by discarding the prevailing p
Page 70 and 71: usually consisted of a bowl of rice
Page 72 and 73: Modernizing Military Catering Berib
Page 74 and 75: availability of foodstuffs. Moreove
Page 76 and 77: Fried rice Boiled rice and barley s
Page 78 and 79: were easiest to procure on location
Page 80 and 81: in the military was also far above
Page 82 and 83: division (and its location) Imperia
Page 84 and 85: homogenizing effect of industrially
Page 88 and 89: Soldiers preparing rice balls, 1937
Page 90 and 91: Although serving the interests of t
Page 92 and 93: ‘A Page from the Accounting Book
Page 94 and 95: A middle-class family at dinner, a
Page 96 and 97: An urban working family at a shared
Page 98 and 99: An issue of the magazine Fujin zass
Page 100 and 101: ecame a standard sight at Western-i
Page 102 and 103: they affected the cooking practices
Page 104 and 105: to try new recipes and made homemak
Page 106 and 107: A weekly menu (side dishes to be se
Page 108 and 109: An array of methods was employed by
Page 110 and 111: were sweet azuki bean soup with mil
Page 112 and 113: The style is known nowadays under t
Page 114 and 115: However, the principles of beauty o
Page 116 and 117: Japanese home cookery for future ge
Page 118 and 119: City dwellers planting vegetables b
Page 120 and 121: The ‘Rising Sun Lunch Box’ (Hin
Page 122 and 123: conscription made modern nation sta
Page 124 and 125: made public on a daily basis by the
Page 126 and 127: menus - were propagated as an examp
Page 128 and 129: Ship’s biscuits factory, c. 1940s
Page 130 and 131: than rice (which became increasingl
Page 132 and 133: In the long run, the wartime ration
Page 134 and 135: Wartime communal cooking provided a
Page 136 and 137:
Defeat: Japan in the Wake of World
Page 138 and 139:
1955 Eiyō no seirigaku [Physiology
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Six The Culinary Consequences of Ja
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hishio, is recorded to have been us
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A Chinese servant waiting on Wester
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Chinatown restaurant. Only a handfu
Page 148 and 149:
A typical rāmen restaurant in rura
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kyōkasho (‘Catering Textbook for
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was supplied, largely illegally, by
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historically embedded than is gener
Page 156 and 157:
Kimch’i production in Japan, 1980
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Seven Multiple Circuits of Affluenc
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School lunch centred on bread and m
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The emergence of a consumer market
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the catering departments of each sc
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Japan’s school lunch program, whi
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of the most powerful mechanisms of
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A kiosk with food souvenirs is indi
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fact that it began to offer to thei
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One of the characteristic features
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Home Buddhist altar with offerings
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mixture of old and new, with clear
Page 180 and 181:
ather works as the basic social bon
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processes. Examining the strategies
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the sugar plantations of Hawai’i,
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‘Local’ sushi varieties of the
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Benihana restaurants operate a sush
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plate in front of you, chopped up i
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their enterprises a financial boost
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The late Hara Yōichi, the owner of
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obots in sushi making, and that in
Page 198 and 199:
Yo!Sushi outlet on the concourse of
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A Wagamama menu, 2005.
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References Introduction 1 Michael A
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6 Ōhama and Yoshihara, Edo, Tōky
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54 John Mertz, Novel Japanese: Spac
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kigen, pp. 74, 80. 35 Basil H. Cham
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A Research Review, ed. H. J. Teuteb
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Kinenkai, ed., Sūji de miru Nihon
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Japan,, pp. 65, 93. 10 Sand, House
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61 Kumakura Isao, ‘Tea and Japan
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19 Imada Setsuko, ‘Dainiji sekai
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5 Noguchi Hokugen, ‘Shokumotsu ch
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also Chōsen Sōtokufu Shokusankyok
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Shokuryō Shinbunsha (Tokyo, 1990),
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ed. K. J. Cwiertka with B.C.A. Walr
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Japan: The Experience of Japan’s
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Glossary agemono ‘deep-fried dish
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with a variety of fillings and roll
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mirin and sugar: before being eaten
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Marianne Lien and Brigitte Nerlich,
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Agricultural Experiment Stations 58
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hotels, Western-style 39-40 Fujiya
Page 242:
First Opium 17 Korean 136, 156, 187
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