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To Piotr and Niek Published by Reaktion Books Ltd 33 Great Sutton Street London ec1v 0dx, uk www.reaktionbooks.co.uk First published 2006 Copyright © Katarzyna J. Cwiertka, 2006 All rights reserved No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publishers. Printed and bound in Great Britain by Cromwell Press, Trowbridge, Wiltshire British <strong>Library</strong> Cataloguing in <strong>Public</strong>ation Data Cwiertka, Katarzyna Joanna, 1968– Modern Japanese cuisine: food, power and national identity 1. Food habits – Japan 2. Cookery, Japanese 3. Japan – Civilization I. Title 394.1’0952 isbn-13: 978 1 86189 298 0 isbn-10: 1 86189 298 5
Contents Introduction 7 1 Western Food, Politics and Fashion 13 2 The Road to Multicultural Gastronomy 35 3 Strengthening the Military 56 4 Reforming Home Meals 87 5 Wartime Mobilization and Food Rationing 115 6 The Culinary Consequences of Japanese Imperialism 138 7 Multiple Circuits of Affluence 156 Conclusion: The Making of a National Cuisine 175 Postscript: Japanese Cuisine Goes Global 181 References 200 Glossary 228 Acknowledgements 233 Photo Acknowledgements 235 Index 236
Page 1: Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
Page 5: Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
Page 10 and 11: A contemporary home meal. (Chikuzen
Page 12 and 13: multiculturalism in contemporary Ja
Page 14 and 15: themselves experts on it. They all
Page 16 and 17: entremets Pudding à la Diplomate M
Page 18 and 19: controlled the emperor. The only st
Page 20 and 21: Eating for ‘Civilization and Enli
Page 22 and 23: the daily life of the Palace at all
Page 24 and 25: The new faces, the old historical n
Page 26 and 27: was to become the crucial strategy
Page 28 and 29: concern ‘to preserve draft animal
Page 30 and 31: various types of meat indicates tha
Page 32 and 33: Westerners slaughtering and butcher
Page 34 and 35: Japanese enjoying beef stew, from K
Page 36 and 37: of the meat-eating taboo fitted per
Page 38 and 39: Foreign settlement house in Yokoham
Page 40 and 41: My health is miserable, my appetite
Page 42 and 43: Dining-room of the Grand Hotel in Y
Page 44 and 45: William Gray Dixon (1854-1928), who
Page 46 and 47: opened in 1863, may have been prece
Page 48 and 49: Prices of set menus at top Western-
Page 50 and 51: Poached eggs Omelettes Beefsteak Co
Page 52 and 53: uilding blocks for the new dining s
Page 54 and 55: Lunch room at the Takashimaya depar
Page 56 and 57:
interconnectedness between food-pro
Page 58 and 59:
Three Strengthening the Military Fa
Page 60 and 61:
further inhibited their diffusion.
Page 62 and 63:
the hope of increasing sales, Ichit
Page 64 and 65:
in Meiji Japan. Yanagisawa Sakichi
Page 66 and 67:
dwarfish - too small, in fact, for
Page 68 and 69:
quo, by discarding the prevailing p
Page 70 and 71:
usually consisted of a bowl of rice
Page 72 and 73:
Modernizing Military Catering Berib
Page 74 and 75:
availability of foodstuffs. Moreove
Page 76 and 77:
Fried rice Boiled rice and barley s
Page 78 and 79:
were easiest to procure on location
Page 80 and 81:
in the military was also far above
Page 82 and 83:
division (and its location) Imperia
Page 84 and 85:
homogenizing effect of industrially
Page 86 and 87:
Conscripts at table, 1938. new tast
Page 88 and 89:
Soldiers preparing rice balls, 1937
Page 90 and 91:
Although serving the interests of t
Page 92 and 93:
‘A Page from the Accounting Book
Page 94 and 95:
A middle-class family at dinner, a
Page 96 and 97:
An urban working family at a shared
Page 98 and 99:
An issue of the magazine Fujin zass
Page 100 and 101:
ecame a standard sight at Western-i
Page 102 and 103:
they affected the cooking practices
Page 104 and 105:
to try new recipes and made homemak
Page 106 and 107:
A weekly menu (side dishes to be se
Page 108 and 109:
An array of methods was employed by
Page 110 and 111:
were sweet azuki bean soup with mil
Page 112 and 113:
The style is known nowadays under t
Page 114 and 115:
However, the principles of beauty o
Page 116 and 117:
Japanese home cookery for future ge
Page 118 and 119:
City dwellers planting vegetables b
Page 120 and 121:
The ‘Rising Sun Lunch Box’ (Hin
Page 122 and 123:
conscription made modern nation sta
Page 124 and 125:
made public on a daily basis by the
Page 126 and 127:
menus - were propagated as an examp
Page 128 and 129:
Ship’s biscuits factory, c. 1940s
Page 130 and 131:
than rice (which became increasingl
Page 132 and 133:
In the long run, the wartime ration
Page 134 and 135:
Wartime communal cooking provided a
Page 136 and 137:
Defeat: Japan in the Wake of World
Page 138 and 139:
1955 Eiyō no seirigaku [Physiology
Page 140 and 141:
Six The Culinary Consequences of Ja
Page 142 and 143:
hishio, is recorded to have been us
Page 144 and 145:
A Chinese servant waiting on Wester
Page 146 and 147:
Chinatown restaurant. Only a handfu
Page 148 and 149:
A typical rāmen restaurant in rura
Page 150 and 151:
kyōkasho (‘Catering Textbook for
Page 152 and 153:
was supplied, largely illegally, by
Page 154 and 155:
historically embedded than is gener
Page 156 and 157:
Kimch’i production in Japan, 1980
Page 158 and 159:
Seven Multiple Circuits of Affluenc
Page 160 and 161:
School lunch centred on bread and m
Page 162 and 163:
The emergence of a consumer market
Page 164 and 165:
the catering departments of each sc
Page 166 and 167:
Japan’s school lunch program, whi
Page 168 and 169:
of the most powerful mechanisms of
Page 170 and 171:
A kiosk with food souvenirs is indi
Page 172 and 173:
fact that it began to offer to thei
Page 174 and 175:
One of the characteristic features
Page 176 and 177:
Home Buddhist altar with offerings
Page 178 and 179:
mixture of old and new, with clear
Page 180 and 181:
ather works as the basic social bon
Page 182 and 183:
processes. Examining the strategies
Page 184 and 185:
the sugar plantations of Hawai’i,
Page 186 and 187:
‘Local’ sushi varieties of the
Page 188 and 189:
Benihana restaurants operate a sush
Page 190 and 191:
plate in front of you, chopped up i
Page 192 and 193:
their enterprises a financial boost
Page 194 and 195:
The late Hara Yōichi, the owner of
Page 196 and 197:
obots in sushi making, and that in
Page 198 and 199:
Yo!Sushi outlet on the concourse of
Page 200 and 201:
A Wagamama menu, 2005.
Page 202 and 203:
References Introduction 1 Michael A
Page 204 and 205:
6 Ōhama and Yoshihara, Edo, Tōky
Page 206 and 207:
54 John Mertz, Novel Japanese: Spac
Page 208 and 209:
kigen, pp. 74, 80. 35 Basil H. Cham
Page 210 and 211:
A Research Review, ed. H. J. Teuteb
Page 212 and 213:
Kinenkai, ed., Sūji de miru Nihon
Page 214 and 215:
Japan,, pp. 65, 93. 10 Sand, House
Page 216 and 217:
61 Kumakura Isao, ‘Tea and Japan
Page 218 and 219:
19 Imada Setsuko, ‘Dainiji sekai
Page 220 and 221:
5 Noguchi Hokugen, ‘Shokumotsu ch
Page 222 and 223:
also Chōsen Sōtokufu Shokusankyok
Page 224 and 225:
Shokuryō Shinbunsha (Tokyo, 1990),
Page 226 and 227:
ed. K. J. Cwiertka with B.C.A. Walr
Page 228 and 229:
Japan: The Experience of Japan’s
Page 230 and 231:
Glossary agemono ‘deep-fried dish
Page 232 and 233:
with a variety of fillings and roll
Page 234 and 235:
mirin and sugar: before being eaten
Page 236 and 237:
Marianne Lien and Brigitte Nerlich,
Page 238 and 239:
Agricultural Experiment Stations 58
Page 240 and 241:
hotels, Western-style 39-40 Fujiya
Page 242:
First Opium 17 Korean 136, 156, 187
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