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kigen, pp. 74, 80.
35 Basil H. Chamberlain, Japanese Things: Being Notes on Various Subjects Connected
with Japan (1904) (Tokyo, 1971), p. 181.
36 Taitō Kuritsu Shitamachi Fūzoku Shiryōkan, ed., Rōjin ga tsuzuru Shitaya,
Asakusa no Meiji, Taishō, Shōwa, daisankan (Tokyo, 1988), vol. ii, pp. 57–9.
37 Eliza Ruhamah Scidmore, Westward to the Far East: A Guide to the Principal Cities
of China and Japan with a Note on Korea (n. p., 1894), p. 24.
38 Mennell, All Manners of Food, p. 206.
39 Tetsuka Kaneko, ‘Seiyō ryōrihō’, Joshi daigaku kasei kōgi, i/1 (1911), pp. 1–2.
40 Maenobō, Meiji seiyō ryōri kigen, pp. 90–97.
41 Ben Rogers, Beef and Liberty: Roast Beef, John Bull and the English Nation
(London, 2003), pp. 170–72; See also C. Anne Wilson, ed., Eating with the
Victorians (Stroud, 2004).
42 Ishige, The History and Culture of Japanese Food, p. 155.
43 Maenobō, Meiji seiyō ryōri kigen, pp. 49–50.
44 Ishige, The History and Culture of Japanese Food, p. 155.
45 Brian Moeran, ‘The Birth of the Japanese department Store’, in Asian Department
Stores, ed. K. L. MacPherson (Richmond, Surrey, 1998), pp. 141–76.
46 Kerrie L. MacPherson, ‘Introduction: Asia’s Universal Providers’, in Asian
Department Stores, pp. 1–33.
47 Hatsuda Tōru, Hyakkaten no tanjō (Tokyo, 1993), p. 118.
48 Clerk Tono, Shokudō nisshi (unpublished manuscript, 1933).
49 Hatsuda, Hyakkaten no tanjō, p. 121.
50 Watanabe Zenjirō, Kyōdai toshi Edo ga washoku o tsukutta (Tokyo, 1988), p. 222.
51 Shūkan Asahi, Meiji, Taishō, Shōwa nedan no fūzoku shi, vol. i, pp. 11, 23, 35, 47,
121, 125, 157.
52 Watanabe, Kyōdai toshi Edo ga washaku o tsukutta, pp. 221–4.
53 Kabushiki Gaisha Meidi-ya, Meidi-ya hyakunen shi (Tokyo, 1987), pp. 114–18.
54 Moeran, ‘The Birth of the Japanese Department Store’, p. 163.
55 Hatsuda, Hyakkaten no tanjō, p. 173.
56 For more information on ekiben, see Paul Noguchi, ‘Savor Slowly: Ekiben – the
Fast Food of High-Speed Japan’, Ethnology, xxxiii/4 (1994), pp. 317–30.
Three: Strengthening the Military
1 Hugh Cortazzi, Victorians in Japan: In and Around the Treaty Ports (London and
Atlantic Highlands, nj, 1987), p. 76.
2 Aoba Takashi, Yasai no Nihon shi (Tokyo, 1991), pp. 189–200.
3 Kagome Hachijūnen Shi Hensan Iinkai, ed., Kagome hachijūnen shi (Nagoya,
1978), pp. 102–8.
4 Aoba, Yasai no Nihon shi, pp. 201–16.
5 Ōzawa Ichimori, Chōki keizai tōkei VIII: Bukka (Tokyo, 1973), p. 78.
6 ‘Yasai futsū sōba hyō’ Katei shūhō, 77 (1906), p. 3.
7 Bruce F. Johnston with Mosaburo Hosoda and Yoshio Kusumi, Japanese Food
206