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made public on a daily basis by the Imperial Government Institute for Nutrition. Easy-to-follow instructions and recipes were propagated via cooking demonstrations, exhibitions and lectures. In 1924 Saiki himself held the very first radio lecture on the issue of nutrition, and in the year 1933 alone the institute carried out nearly 300 lecturing tours throughout the country. 23 The popularization of the ideal of professional housewife, who was to ensure the health of her family while watching over the household finances, provided a fertile ground for the activities coordinated by Saiki and other professionals involved in the propagation of nutritional knowledge. From the 1920s nutritional advice came to be featured regularly in home economics textbooks, cookery books and women’s magazines. A decade later, the emphasis on nourishment became increasingly dominant in the printed media, including publications targeted at rural households. The commitment of the Japanese state towards improving dietary conditions was largely responsible for this trend. In 1929, in an official notification to the local administrative organs throughout the country, the Home Ministry underscored the importance of nutritional reforms in bolstering the physical condition of the population. 24 Three years later a directive of the Ministry of Education provided primary schools with financial support for their canteens. By 1940 more than 12,000 schools throughout the country were serving food to their pupils. 25 The Militarization of Nutrition The establishment of the <strong>Public</strong> Welfare Ministry, a year after the outbreak of the Sino-Japanese War, accelerated the growing involvement of the state in public nutrition. For example, between 1939 and 1944 ten new institutions training dieticians were established, while only one such institution – set up privately by Saiki in 1925 – had been in operation thus far. 26 A major difference between dieticians educated by Saiki and those who graduated from the new schools was the fact that the latter were inculcated with knowledge and skills much more attuned to the practical application on a daily basis in the wartime circumstances of growing food shortages. Moreover, the new schools operated on a far larger scale. For example, the School of Provisions managed by Ryōyūkai, a foundation with strong military ties, had a potential of educating up to 500 students per year. In 1941 the school offered two one-year daytime courses, one in dietetics and one in canning, a six-months daytime course in bread-making and a six-months evening training in nutrition for professional cooks. 27 122
A fragment of an educational poster indicating nutritional value of different foodstuffs, issued by the Tokyo Institute for Nutrition and Provisions, 1938. Graduates of the school were offered employment in a variety of institutions related to mass catering, food processing, food rationing and public nutrition, as well as Ryōyūkai’s own infrastructure throughout the Japanese empire. As an umbrella organization through which the influence of the military on civilian consumption practices was channelled, Ryōyūkai played an important role in the construction of the uniform model of mass catering in Japan. By the late 1920s, army kitchens – with modern equipment, motivated and well-educated personnel, and economical yet nourishing 123
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Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
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Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
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Contents Introduction 7 1 Western F
Page 10 and 11:
A contemporary home meal. (Chikuzen
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multiculturalism in contemporary Ja
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themselves experts on it. They all
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entremets Pudding à la Diplomate M
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controlled the emperor. The only st
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Eating for ‘Civilization and Enli
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the daily life of the Palace at all
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The new faces, the old historical n
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was to become the crucial strategy
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concern ‘to preserve draft animal
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various types of meat indicates tha
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Westerners slaughtering and butcher
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Japanese enjoying beef stew, from K
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of the meat-eating taboo fitted per
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Foreign settlement house in Yokoham
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My health is miserable, my appetite
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Dining-room of the Grand Hotel in Y
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William Gray Dixon (1854-1928), who
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opened in 1863, may have been prece
Page 48 and 49:
Prices of set menus at top Western-
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Poached eggs Omelettes Beefsteak Co
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uilding blocks for the new dining s
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Lunch room at the Takashimaya depar
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interconnectedness between food-pro
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Three Strengthening the Military Fa
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further inhibited their diffusion.
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the hope of increasing sales, Ichit
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in Meiji Japan. Yanagisawa Sakichi
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dwarfish - too small, in fact, for
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quo, by discarding the prevailing p
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usually consisted of a bowl of rice
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Modernizing Military Catering Berib
Page 74 and 75: availability of foodstuffs. Moreove
Page 76 and 77: Fried rice Boiled rice and barley s
Page 78 and 79: were easiest to procure on location
Page 80 and 81: in the military was also far above
Page 82 and 83: division (and its location) Imperia
Page 84 and 85: homogenizing effect of industrially
Page 86 and 87: Conscripts at table, 1938. new tast
Page 88 and 89: Soldiers preparing rice balls, 1937
Page 90 and 91: Although serving the interests of t
Page 92 and 93: ‘A Page from the Accounting Book
Page 94 and 95: A middle-class family at dinner, a
Page 96 and 97: An urban working family at a shared
Page 98 and 99: An issue of the magazine Fujin zass
Page 100 and 101: ecame a standard sight at Western-i
Page 102 and 103: they affected the cooking practices
Page 104 and 105: to try new recipes and made homemak
Page 106 and 107: A weekly menu (side dishes to be se
Page 108 and 109: An array of methods was employed by
Page 110 and 111: were sweet azuki bean soup with mil
Page 112 and 113: The style is known nowadays under t
Page 114 and 115: However, the principles of beauty o
Page 116 and 117: Japanese home cookery for future ge
Page 118 and 119: City dwellers planting vegetables b
Page 120 and 121: The ‘Rising Sun Lunch Box’ (Hin
Page 122 and 123: conscription made modern nation sta
Page 126 and 127: menus - were propagated as an examp
Page 128 and 129: Ship’s biscuits factory, c. 1940s
Page 130 and 131: than rice (which became increasingl
Page 132 and 133: In the long run, the wartime ration
Page 134 and 135: Wartime communal cooking provided a
Page 136 and 137: Defeat: Japan in the Wake of World
Page 138 and 139: 1955 Eiyō no seirigaku [Physiology
Page 140 and 141: Six The Culinary Consequences of Ja
Page 142 and 143: hishio, is recorded to have been us
Page 144 and 145: A Chinese servant waiting on Wester
Page 146 and 147: Chinatown restaurant. Only a handfu
Page 148 and 149: A typical rāmen restaurant in rura
Page 150 and 151: kyōkasho (‘Catering Textbook for
Page 152 and 153: was supplied, largely illegally, by
Page 154 and 155: historically embedded than is gener
Page 156 and 157: Kimch’i production in Japan, 1980
Page 158 and 159: Seven Multiple Circuits of Affluenc
Page 160 and 161: School lunch centred on bread and m
Page 162 and 163: The emergence of a consumer market
Page 164 and 165: the catering departments of each sc
Page 166 and 167: Japan’s school lunch program, whi
Page 168 and 169: of the most powerful mechanisms of
Page 170 and 171: A kiosk with food souvenirs is indi
Page 172 and 173: fact that it began to offer to thei
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One of the characteristic features
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Home Buddhist altar with offerings
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mixture of old and new, with clear
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ather works as the basic social bon
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processes. Examining the strategies
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the sugar plantations of Hawai’i,
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‘Local’ sushi varieties of the
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Benihana restaurants operate a sush
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plate in front of you, chopped up i
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their enterprises a financial boost
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The late Hara Yōichi, the owner of
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obots in sushi making, and that in
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Yo!Sushi outlet on the concourse of
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A Wagamama menu, 2005.
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References Introduction 1 Michael A
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6 Ōhama and Yoshihara, Edo, Tōky
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54 John Mertz, Novel Japanese: Spac
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kigen, pp. 74, 80. 35 Basil H. Cham
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A Research Review, ed. H. J. Teuteb
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Kinenkai, ed., Sūji de miru Nihon
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Japan,, pp. 65, 93. 10 Sand, House
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61 Kumakura Isao, ‘Tea and Japan
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19 Imada Setsuko, ‘Dainiji sekai
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5 Noguchi Hokugen, ‘Shokumotsu ch
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also Chōsen Sōtokufu Shokusankyok
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Shokuryō Shinbunsha (Tokyo, 1990),
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ed. K. J. Cwiertka with B.C.A. Walr
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Japan: The Experience of Japan’s
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Glossary agemono ‘deep-fried dish
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with a variety of fillings and roll
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mirin and sugar: before being eaten
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Marianne Lien and Brigitte Nerlich,
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Agricultural Experiment Stations 58
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hotels, Western-style 39-40 Fujiya
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First Opium 17 Korean 136, 156, 187
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