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were easiest to procure on location. However, yōshoku items such as curry stew and cutlets could also be found, along with potatoes, in army menus from the last decade of the nineteenth century. 69 Menu served in the 1st regiment of the 9th company to the soldiers of the 6th pay level, between 25 and 30 June 1900. 70 date breakfast lunch dinner 25 June 1900 thin-sliced deepfried tōfu, miso soup with greens 26 June 1900 potatoes, miso soup with greens At that time, the army began to pay greater attention to cooking the ingredients, instead of focusing only on the logistics of provisioning. On the occasion of the Boxer Rebellion (1899–1901), in response to which an international military force was gathered around Beijing, the Japanese troops were stationed along with American, British, Russian and German armies. This gave the accounting divisions an opportunity to observe the 76 simmered fish, potatoes, daikon, greens, takuan pickles tsukudani preserve 27 June 1900 pickles cutlet, potatoes, broad beans, greens 28 June 1900 potatoes, miso soup with greens 29 June 1900 thin-sliced deepfried tōfu, miso soup with greens salted sardines, raw horse mackerel, grated daikon, greens potatoes, cowpeas, deep-fried tōfu dumplings 30 June 1900 pickles simmered bonito, omelette, cowpeas simmered in sugar, greens, takuan pickles salted sardines, grated daikon, greens, takuan pickles herring, seaweed (konbu), wheat gluten potatoes, daikon, miso soup with carrots potatoes, greens, cowpeas simmered bonito, potatoes potatoes, miso soup with burdock root and daikon
catering systems of the Western armies and made them realize that issues beyond the distribution of foodstuffs were at stake. 71 The change of attitude towards military catering became apparent in the publication in 1910 of the first army cookbook, with the following remark in the introduction: In the military it is necessary not to be concerned with outside beauty and luxury when preparing meals. However, if people in charge of cooking do not study cookery at all and every day repeat monotonous and tasteless menus, then even with a high sum for provisions and good quality, fresh ingredients they will never reach the aim of military upbringing. The purpose of this book, by compiling an outline of Japanese and Western cooking techniques, is to become a helpful reference for military men responsible for cooking. It should be strictly avoided to compete in vain in cooking skills or in extravagant menus. One must never forget the hardships of the battlefield. 72 The cookbook contained 146 recipes, including several for yōshoku, such as rice curry, cutlet, stew and potato-and-beef croquettes; three recipes for baking bread are also found. 73 These efforts were not sufficient, however, to bolster the quality of meals served in the Japanese army. As well as lack of guidance and coordination, cooking was held in low esteem as a duty to be performed by a soldier. 74 Fragmentation of responsibilities and missing links between the accounting divisions and the Provisions Depot further contributed to the chaos in the army kitchens. The Siberian expedition of 1918 provides a case in point. The accounting divisions anticipated that rice would not be easily procured on location and provided catering divisions with portable ovens, designed by the Provisions Depot, to bake bread. For the majority of soldiers, however, this was the first encounter with bread, and, as was the case in the navy a few decades earlier, they rejected the unknown staple en masse. 75 The fact that no such drastic reactions to the Western- and Chinese-style dishes were reported suggests the particularly important position that rice assumed in the military diet. Regardless of the shortcomings of the army catering system, in the early twentieth century military diet was far above the national average. As indicated earlier, a soldier consumed considerably more rice than an urban civilian, not to mention that few peasants could afford rice on a daily basis. Furthermore, by the 1910s the average quantity of beef consumed per soldier was approximately 13 kilograms a year, while the average per head of the population was roughly 1 kilogram. The quantity of fish served 77
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Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
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Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
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Contents Introduction 7 1 Western F
Page 10 and 11:
A contemporary home meal. (Chikuzen
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multiculturalism in contemporary Ja
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themselves experts on it. They all
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entremets Pudding à la Diplomate M
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controlled the emperor. The only st
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Eating for ‘Civilization and Enli
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the daily life of the Palace at all
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The new faces, the old historical n
Page 26 and 27:
was to become the crucial strategy
Page 28 and 29: concern ‘to preserve draft animal
Page 30 and 31: various types of meat indicates tha
Page 32 and 33: Westerners slaughtering and butcher
Page 34 and 35: Japanese enjoying beef stew, from K
Page 36 and 37: of the meat-eating taboo fitted per
Page 38 and 39: Foreign settlement house in Yokoham
Page 40 and 41: My health is miserable, my appetite
Page 42 and 43: Dining-room of the Grand Hotel in Y
Page 44 and 45: William Gray Dixon (1854-1928), who
Page 46 and 47: opened in 1863, may have been prece
Page 48 and 49: Prices of set menus at top Western-
Page 50 and 51: Poached eggs Omelettes Beefsteak Co
Page 52 and 53: uilding blocks for the new dining s
Page 54 and 55: Lunch room at the Takashimaya depar
Page 56 and 57: interconnectedness between food-pro
Page 58 and 59: Three Strengthening the Military Fa
Page 60 and 61: further inhibited their diffusion.
Page 62 and 63: the hope of increasing sales, Ichit
Page 64 and 65: in Meiji Japan. Yanagisawa Sakichi
Page 66 and 67: dwarfish - too small, in fact, for
Page 68 and 69: quo, by discarding the prevailing p
Page 70 and 71: usually consisted of a bowl of rice
Page 72 and 73: Modernizing Military Catering Berib
Page 74 and 75: availability of foodstuffs. Moreove
Page 76 and 77: Fried rice Boiled rice and barley s
Page 80 and 81: in the military was also far above
Page 82 and 83: division (and its location) Imperia
Page 84 and 85: homogenizing effect of industrially
Page 86 and 87: Conscripts at table, 1938. new tast
Page 88 and 89: Soldiers preparing rice balls, 1937
Page 90 and 91: Although serving the interests of t
Page 92 and 93: ‘A Page from the Accounting Book
Page 94 and 95: A middle-class family at dinner, a
Page 96 and 97: An urban working family at a shared
Page 98 and 99: An issue of the magazine Fujin zass
Page 100 and 101: ecame a standard sight at Western-i
Page 102 and 103: they affected the cooking practices
Page 104 and 105: to try new recipes and made homemak
Page 106 and 107: A weekly menu (side dishes to be se
Page 108 and 109: An array of methods was employed by
Page 110 and 111: were sweet azuki bean soup with mil
Page 112 and 113: The style is known nowadays under t
Page 114 and 115: However, the principles of beauty o
Page 116 and 117: Japanese home cookery for future ge
Page 118 and 119: City dwellers planting vegetables b
Page 120 and 121: The ‘Rising Sun Lunch Box’ (Hin
Page 122 and 123: conscription made modern nation sta
Page 124 and 125: made public on a daily basis by the
Page 126 and 127: menus - were propagated as an examp
Page 128 and 129:
Ship’s biscuits factory, c. 1940s
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than rice (which became increasingl
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In the long run, the wartime ration
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Wartime communal cooking provided a
Page 136 and 137:
Defeat: Japan in the Wake of World
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1955 Eiyō no seirigaku [Physiology
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Six The Culinary Consequences of Ja
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hishio, is recorded to have been us
Page 144 and 145:
A Chinese servant waiting on Wester
Page 146 and 147:
Chinatown restaurant. Only a handfu
Page 148 and 149:
A typical rāmen restaurant in rura
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kyōkasho (‘Catering Textbook for
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was supplied, largely illegally, by
Page 154 and 155:
historically embedded than is gener
Page 156 and 157:
Kimch’i production in Japan, 1980
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Seven Multiple Circuits of Affluenc
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School lunch centred on bread and m
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The emergence of a consumer market
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the catering departments of each sc
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Japan’s school lunch program, whi
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of the most powerful mechanisms of
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A kiosk with food souvenirs is indi
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fact that it began to offer to thei
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One of the characteristic features
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Home Buddhist altar with offerings
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mixture of old and new, with clear
Page 180 and 181:
ather works as the basic social bon
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processes. Examining the strategies
Page 184 and 185:
the sugar plantations of Hawai’i,
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‘Local’ sushi varieties of the
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Benihana restaurants operate a sush
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plate in front of you, chopped up i
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their enterprises a financial boost
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The late Hara Yōichi, the owner of
Page 196 and 197:
obots in sushi making, and that in
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Yo!Sushi outlet on the concourse of
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A Wagamama menu, 2005.
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References Introduction 1 Michael A
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6 Ōhama and Yoshihara, Edo, Tōky
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54 John Mertz, Novel Japanese: Spac
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kigen, pp. 74, 80. 35 Basil H. Cham
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A Research Review, ed. H. J. Teuteb
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Kinenkai, ed., Sūji de miru Nihon
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Japan,, pp. 65, 93. 10 Sand, House
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61 Kumakura Isao, ‘Tea and Japan
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19 Imada Setsuko, ‘Dainiji sekai
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5 Noguchi Hokugen, ‘Shokumotsu ch
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also Chōsen Sōtokufu Shokusankyok
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Shokuryō Shinbunsha (Tokyo, 1990),
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ed. K. J. Cwiertka with B.C.A. Walr
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Japan: The Experience of Japan’s
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Glossary agemono ‘deep-fried dish
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with a variety of fillings and roll
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mirin and sugar: before being eaten
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Marianne Lien and Brigitte Nerlich,
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Agricultural Experiment Stations 58
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hotels, Western-style 39-40 Fujiya
Page 242:
First Opium 17 Korean 136, 156, 187
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