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The ‘Rising Sun Lunch Box’ (Hinomaru bentō). patriotic lunch box was consumed by pupils each Monday as a token of solidarity with the troops fighting in China. By 1939 the idea was adopted by schools all over the country, and during subsequent years the ‘flag lunch’ rose to the symbol of wartime mobilization and national unity. 6 However, the daily reality of the majority of the population stood in sharp contrast to this image, if only because after 1941 plain boiled rice became a luxurious 118
item on the menu. Since the summer of 1940 the authorities had prohibited Tokyo restaurants from serving rice dishes. 7 The knowledge of how to make maximum use of the limited resources – scientifically grounded practical advice on nutrition – was propagated on a large scale by a variety of state institutions. State propaganda had elevated the knowledge of eating healthily at a low cost to a level of a patriotic virtue. The confidence in a scientific solution for wartime food shortages remained strong until the very end – the inaugural meeting of the Dietician’s Association of Great Japan was held on 21 May 1945. 8 The military provided the example of an efficiency-driven approach towards food preparation and consumption. The totalitarian character of the Japanese state bolstered the effectiveness of the reforms. The political innocence of food, on the other hand, ensured their longevity. Unlike ideological aspects of wartime life, which were persistently erased by the occupying forces after 1945, the knowledge and skills of healthy diet disseminated in wartime were perpetuated undisturbed despite the fall of the regime. The extensive involvement of the wartime Japanese state in the consumption practices of its population exposes the intricate connections between power, welfare and knowledge that developed in Japan during the first decades of the twentieth century. 9 As Turner has pointedly observed, scientific advances did not liberate the body from external control, but, on the contrary, intensified the means of social regulation. 10 The application and dissemination of nutritional science through a range of state institutions constituted a technique for making Japanese civilians objects of knowledge and power. It was not an oppressing and dominating power, but rather a kind of a government ‘at a distance’. While the autonomy of individuals was preserved, they were controlled through the establishment of rules and by shared expert knowledge and conceptual frameworks. 11 Such ‘government at a distance’ played a critical role in homogenizing Japanese cuisine. The foundations for the modern science of nutrition were laid in the first half of the nineteenth century: in 1803 gastric digestion was shown to be a chemical process; in 1814 fats were demonstrated as being composed of fatty acids and glycerol; and in 1827 food constituents were classified into three categories – sugars, fats and proteins. 12 The new science developed at first as part of organic chemistry and medicine, and was later subsumed under the field of ‘hygiene ’, which was defined as anything pertaining to the maintenance and strengthening of health as opposed to the cure of diseases. Gradually, however, nutritional science developed as an independent discipline and featured increasingly highly on political agendas. The development of capitalist production and the introduction of general 119
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Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
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Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
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Contents Introduction 7 1 Western F
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A contemporary home meal. (Chikuzen
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multiculturalism in contemporary Ja
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themselves experts on it. They all
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entremets Pudding à la Diplomate M
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controlled the emperor. The only st
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Eating for ‘Civilization and Enli
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the daily life of the Palace at all
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The new faces, the old historical n
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was to become the crucial strategy
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concern ‘to preserve draft animal
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various types of meat indicates tha
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Westerners slaughtering and butcher
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Japanese enjoying beef stew, from K
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of the meat-eating taboo fitted per
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Foreign settlement house in Yokoham
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My health is miserable, my appetite
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Dining-room of the Grand Hotel in Y
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William Gray Dixon (1854-1928), who
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opened in 1863, may have been prece
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Prices of set menus at top Western-
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Poached eggs Omelettes Beefsteak Co
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uilding blocks for the new dining s
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Lunch room at the Takashimaya depar
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interconnectedness between food-pro
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Three Strengthening the Military Fa
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further inhibited their diffusion.
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the hope of increasing sales, Ichit
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in Meiji Japan. Yanagisawa Sakichi
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dwarfish - too small, in fact, for
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quo, by discarding the prevailing p
Page 70 and 71: usually consisted of a bowl of rice
Page 72 and 73: Modernizing Military Catering Berib
Page 74 and 75: availability of foodstuffs. Moreove
Page 76 and 77: Fried rice Boiled rice and barley s
Page 78 and 79: were easiest to procure on location
Page 80 and 81: in the military was also far above
Page 82 and 83: division (and its location) Imperia
Page 84 and 85: homogenizing effect of industrially
Page 86 and 87: Conscripts at table, 1938. new tast
Page 88 and 89: Soldiers preparing rice balls, 1937
Page 90 and 91: Although serving the interests of t
Page 92 and 93: ‘A Page from the Accounting Book
Page 94 and 95: A middle-class family at dinner, a
Page 96 and 97: An urban working family at a shared
Page 98 and 99: An issue of the magazine Fujin zass
Page 100 and 101: ecame a standard sight at Western-i
Page 102 and 103: they affected the cooking practices
Page 104 and 105: to try new recipes and made homemak
Page 106 and 107: A weekly menu (side dishes to be se
Page 108 and 109: An array of methods was employed by
Page 110 and 111: were sweet azuki bean soup with mil
Page 112 and 113: The style is known nowadays under t
Page 114 and 115: However, the principles of beauty o
Page 116 and 117: Japanese home cookery for future ge
Page 118 and 119: City dwellers planting vegetables b
Page 122 and 123: conscription made modern nation sta
Page 124 and 125: made public on a daily basis by the
Page 126 and 127: menus - were propagated as an examp
Page 128 and 129: Ship’s biscuits factory, c. 1940s
Page 130 and 131: than rice (which became increasingl
Page 132 and 133: In the long run, the wartime ration
Page 134 and 135: Wartime communal cooking provided a
Page 136 and 137: Defeat: Japan in the Wake of World
Page 138 and 139: 1955 Eiyō no seirigaku [Physiology
Page 140 and 141: Six The Culinary Consequences of Ja
Page 142 and 143: hishio, is recorded to have been us
Page 144 and 145: A Chinese servant waiting on Wester
Page 146 and 147: Chinatown restaurant. Only a handfu
Page 148 and 149: A typical rāmen restaurant in rura
Page 150 and 151: kyōkasho (‘Catering Textbook for
Page 152 and 153: was supplied, largely illegally, by
Page 154 and 155: historically embedded than is gener
Page 156 and 157: Kimch’i production in Japan, 1980
Page 158 and 159: Seven Multiple Circuits of Affluenc
Page 160 and 161: School lunch centred on bread and m
Page 162 and 163: The emergence of a consumer market
Page 164 and 165: the catering departments of each sc
Page 166 and 167: Japan’s school lunch program, whi
Page 168 and 169: of the most powerful mechanisms of
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A kiosk with food souvenirs is indi
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fact that it began to offer to thei
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One of the characteristic features
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Home Buddhist altar with offerings
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mixture of old and new, with clear
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ather works as the basic social bon
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processes. Examining the strategies
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the sugar plantations of Hawai’i,
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‘Local’ sushi varieties of the
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Benihana restaurants operate a sush
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plate in front of you, chopped up i
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their enterprises a financial boost
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The late Hara Yōichi, the owner of
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obots in sushi making, and that in
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Yo!Sushi outlet on the concourse of
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A Wagamama menu, 2005.
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References Introduction 1 Michael A
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6 Ōhama and Yoshihara, Edo, Tōky
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54 John Mertz, Novel Japanese: Spac
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kigen, pp. 74, 80. 35 Basil H. Cham
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A Research Review, ed. H. J. Teuteb
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Kinenkai, ed., Sūji de miru Nihon
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Japan,, pp. 65, 93. 10 Sand, House
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61 Kumakura Isao, ‘Tea and Japan
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19 Imada Setsuko, ‘Dainiji sekai
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5 Noguchi Hokugen, ‘Shokumotsu ch
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also Chōsen Sōtokufu Shokusankyok
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Shokuryō Shinbunsha (Tokyo, 1990),
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ed. K. J. Cwiertka with B.C.A. Walr
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Japan: The Experience of Japan’s
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Glossary agemono ‘deep-fried dish
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with a variety of fillings and roll
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mirin and sugar: before being eaten
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Marianne Lien and Brigitte Nerlich,
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Agricultural Experiment Stations 58
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hotels, Western-style 39-40 Fujiya
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First Opium 17 Korean 136, 156, 187
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