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Japan: The Experience of Japan’s New immigrants and Overseas Communities, ed. Roger Goodman et al. (London, 2003), pp. 98–115. 31 Akira Oshima, Patrick Faas and Katarzyna Cwiertka, Kaiseki Cuisine: Hotel Okura Amsterdam (Bruges, 2003). 32 Hidemine Takahashi, ‘It Started in Japan: Conveyor-Belt Sushi’, Nipponia, 15 (2000), p. 18. See also Theodore C. Bestor, Tsukiji: The Fish Market at the Center of the World (Berkeley, ca, 2004), pp. 161–3. 33 Shinoda Osamu, Sushi no hon (Tokyo, 2002), pp. 7–11, 82–5; Shūkan Asahi, ed., Meiji, Taishō, Shōwa nedan no fūzoku shi (Tokyo, 1987), vol. i, pp. 11, 35. 34 Emiko Ohnuki-Tierney, “McDonald’s in Japan’, in Golden Arches East: McDonald’s in East Asia, ed. J. Watson (Stanford, ca, 1997), pp. 178–9. 35 Masahiro Ota, ‘Focus Japan: Bring on the Sushi!’, Pacific Friend, xxix/5 (2001), p. 12. 36 Ota, ‘Focus Japan’, pp. 11–12; John Broe, ‘Endless Sushi’, electronic document www.mainichi.co.jp/edu/weekly/essay/99/1106/ (accessed 21 January 2004). 37 Jonathan Goff, ‘Putting a New Spin on Sushi’, electronic document www.mainichi.co.jp/english/food/archives/food/990727.html (accessed 21 January 2004). 38 See, for example, www.k10.net, www.sushiogko.dk, www.sushitime.nl, www.zushi.nl, www.sushi-circle.de, www.sakura-leipzig.de, www.sachikosushi. com, www.zenworld.it, www.matsuri.fr, www.divan.com.tr/gastronomi/haisushi. This is just a tip of an iceberg, since there are many rotating bars that do not operate their own websites: Aya in Dublin, Aya Bistro in Lisbon, Bando in Bochum, Ginza Kaiten Sushi in Madrid, Lô Sushi in Paris, Nippon-kan in Warsaw, Sushi No.1 and Sushi En in Cologne. 39 Tamamura Toyoo, Kaitenzushi sekai isshū (Tokyo, 2000), p. 110. See also www.moshimoshi.co.uk. 40 See www.noto.co.uk. 41 Dominic Walsh, ‘Yo! Sushi Rolls through Europe with us in Sight’, in Times online 16 April 2005, electronic document business.timesonline.co.uk/article/0,,9070– 1571191,00.html (accessed 22 April 2006). See also www.yosushi.com and www.brilliantstages.com/Latest%20News/Yo%20Sushi/Yo%20Sushi%20 Athens.htm. 42 London Business Forum, ‘Simon Woodroffe’, electronic document www.londonbusinessforum.com/woodroffe.html (accessed 19 June 2002). 43 Kate Crockett, ‘Sushi: What Goes Around Comes Around’, electronic document www.metropolis.co.jp/tokyominifeaturestories/285/tokyominifeaturestoriesin c.htm (accessed 21 January 2004). 44 Ibid. 45 Wagamama Limited, Way of the Noodle (London, 1994), p. 84. 46 Ibid., p. 6. 47 Cahal Milmo, ‘Chinese Restaurant Takes Away Michelin Star’, electronic document enjoyment.independent.co.uk/food_and_drink/news/story.jsp? story=370017 (accessed 22 January 2004). 226
48 Mark Stretton, ‘American Dream: Wagamama and yo! Sushi Head for the us , M&C Report, 72 (2006), pp. 1–2. See also www.wagamama.co.uk. 49 Sholto Douglas-Home and Susan Kessler, eds, Zagat Survey: 2006 London Restaurants (New York, 2005), p. 6. 50 Nick Lander, ‘Alan Yau – London Miracle Man’, Nick’s Food News, www.jancisrobinson.com/nick/2004/nick0320.html (accessed 3 August 2004). 227
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Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
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Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
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Contents Introduction 7 1 Western F
Page 10 and 11:
A contemporary home meal. (Chikuzen
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multiculturalism in contemporary Ja
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themselves experts on it. They all
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entremets Pudding à la Diplomate M
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controlled the emperor. The only st
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Eating for ‘Civilization and Enli
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the daily life of the Palace at all
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The new faces, the old historical n
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was to become the crucial strategy
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concern ‘to preserve draft animal
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various types of meat indicates tha
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Westerners slaughtering and butcher
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Japanese enjoying beef stew, from K
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of the meat-eating taboo fitted per
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Foreign settlement house in Yokoham
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My health is miserable, my appetite
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Dining-room of the Grand Hotel in Y
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William Gray Dixon (1854-1928), who
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opened in 1863, may have been prece
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Prices of set menus at top Western-
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Poached eggs Omelettes Beefsteak Co
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uilding blocks for the new dining s
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Lunch room at the Takashimaya depar
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interconnectedness between food-pro
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Three Strengthening the Military Fa
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further inhibited their diffusion.
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the hope of increasing sales, Ichit
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in Meiji Japan. Yanagisawa Sakichi
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dwarfish - too small, in fact, for
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quo, by discarding the prevailing p
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usually consisted of a bowl of rice
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Modernizing Military Catering Berib
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availability of foodstuffs. Moreove
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Fried rice Boiled rice and barley s
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were easiest to procure on location
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in the military was also far above
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division (and its location) Imperia
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homogenizing effect of industrially
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Conscripts at table, 1938. new tast
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Soldiers preparing rice balls, 1937
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Although serving the interests of t
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‘A Page from the Accounting Book
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A middle-class family at dinner, a
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An urban working family at a shared
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An issue of the magazine Fujin zass
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ecame a standard sight at Western-i
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they affected the cooking practices
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to try new recipes and made homemak
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A weekly menu (side dishes to be se
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An array of methods was employed by
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were sweet azuki bean soup with mil
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The style is known nowadays under t
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However, the principles of beauty o
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Japanese home cookery for future ge
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City dwellers planting vegetables b
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The ‘Rising Sun Lunch Box’ (Hin
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conscription made modern nation sta
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made public on a daily basis by the
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menus - were propagated as an examp
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Ship’s biscuits factory, c. 1940s
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than rice (which became increasingl
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In the long run, the wartime ration
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Wartime communal cooking provided a
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Defeat: Japan in the Wake of World
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1955 Eiyō no seirigaku [Physiology
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Six The Culinary Consequences of Ja
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hishio, is recorded to have been us
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A Chinese servant waiting on Wester
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Chinatown restaurant. Only a handfu
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A typical rāmen restaurant in rura
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kyōkasho (‘Catering Textbook for
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was supplied, largely illegally, by
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historically embedded than is gener
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Kimch’i production in Japan, 1980
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Seven Multiple Circuits of Affluenc
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School lunch centred on bread and m
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The emergence of a consumer market
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the catering departments of each sc
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Japan’s school lunch program, whi
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of the most powerful mechanisms of
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A kiosk with food souvenirs is indi
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fact that it began to offer to thei
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One of the characteristic features
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Home Buddhist altar with offerings
Page 178 and 179: mixture of old and new, with clear
Page 180 and 181: ather works as the basic social bon
Page 182 and 183: processes. Examining the strategies
Page 184 and 185: the sugar plantations of Hawai’i,
Page 186 and 187: ‘Local’ sushi varieties of the
Page 188 and 189: Benihana restaurants operate a sush
Page 190 and 191: plate in front of you, chopped up i
Page 192 and 193: their enterprises a financial boost
Page 194 and 195: The late Hara Yōichi, the owner of
Page 196 and 197: obots in sushi making, and that in
Page 198 and 199: Yo!Sushi outlet on the concourse of
Page 200 and 201: A Wagamama menu, 2005.
Page 202 and 203: References Introduction 1 Michael A
Page 204 and 205: 6 Ōhama and Yoshihara, Edo, Tōky
Page 206 and 207: 54 John Mertz, Novel Japanese: Spac
Page 208 and 209: kigen, pp. 74, 80. 35 Basil H. Cham
Page 210 and 211: A Research Review, ed. H. J. Teuteb
Page 212 and 213: Kinenkai, ed., Sūji de miru Nihon
Page 214 and 215: Japan,, pp. 65, 93. 10 Sand, House
Page 216 and 217: 61 Kumakura Isao, ‘Tea and Japan
Page 218 and 219: 19 Imada Setsuko, ‘Dainiji sekai
Page 220 and 221: 5 Noguchi Hokugen, ‘Shokumotsu ch
Page 222 and 223: also Chōsen Sōtokufu Shokusankyok
Page 224 and 225: Shokuryō Shinbunsha (Tokyo, 1990),
Page 226 and 227: ed. K. J. Cwiertka with B.C.A. Walr
Page 230 and 231: Glossary agemono ‘deep-fried dish
Page 232 and 233: with a variety of fillings and roll
Page 234 and 235: mirin and sugar: before being eaten
Page 236 and 237: Marianne Lien and Brigitte Nerlich,
Page 238 and 239: Agricultural Experiment Stations 58
Page 240 and 241: hotels, Western-style 39-40 Fujiya
Page 242: First Opium 17 Korean 136, 156, 187
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