54 John Mertz, Novel Japanese: Spaces of Nationhood in Early Meiji Narrative, 1870–1888 (Ann Arbor, mi, 2003), p. 4. 55 Donald Keene, ed., Modern Japanese Literature: An Anthology (New York, 1956), p. 32. 56 Watanabe Zenjirō, Kyōdai toshi Edo ga washoku o tsukutta (Tokyo, 1988), p. 190. 57 Ishige, The History and Culture of Japanese Food, p. 151; Ogi Shinzō et al., eds, Edo, Tōkyō gaku jiten (Tokyo, 1987), p. 502. 58 Majima, ‘Nikushoku to iu kindai’, p. 218. 59 Mark R. Finlay, ‘Early Marketing of the Theory of Nutrition: The Science and Culture of Liebig’s Extract of Meat’, in The Science and Culture of Nutrition, ed. H. Kamminga and A. Cunningham (Amsterdam and Atlanta, ga, 1995), pp. 50–51. 60 Majima, ‘Nikushoku to iu kindai’, pp. 215–17. 61 Finlay, ‘Early Marketing of the Theory of Nutrition’, p. 48. 62 Gordon, A Modern History of Japan, pp. 78–9. Two: The Road to Multicultural Gastronomy 1 James E. Hoare, Japan’s Treaty Ports and Foreign Settlements: The Uninvited Guests, 1858–1899 (Sandgate, 1994), pp. 6–7. 2 Hugh Cortazzi with I. Nish, P. Lowe and J. E. Hoare, eds, British Envoys in Japan, 1859–1972 (Folkestone, 2004), pp. 9–52. 3 Hoare, Japan’s Treaty Ports and Foreign Settlements, pp. 21–3. 4 James E. Hoare, Embassies in the East: The Story of the British Embassies in Japan, China and Korea from 1859 to the Present (Richmond, Surrey, 1999), p. 7. 5 Hoare, Japan’s Treaty Ports and Foreign Settlements, p. 5. See also Susan Schoenbauer Thurin, Victorian Travellers and the Opening of China, 1842–1907 (Athens, oh, 1999). 6 J.A.G. Roberts, China to Chinatown: Chinese Food in the West (London, 2002), pp. 66–70. 7 Basil Hall Chamberlain and W. B. Mason, A Handbook for Travellers in Japan (London, 1891), p. 10. 8 Major Henry Knollys, Sketches of Life in Japan (London, 1887), pp. 119–20. 9 Isabella L. Bird, Unbeaten Tracks in Japan: An Account of Travels in the Interior, Including Visits to the Aborigines of Yezo and the Shrine of Nikko (Rutland, vt, 1973), p. 19. 10 Roberts, China to Chinatown, p. 75. 11 Mario Emilio Cosenza, ed., The Complete Journal of Townsend Harris: First American Consul and Minister to Japan (Rutland, vt, and Tokyo, 1959), p. 377. 12 Ibid., p. 391. 13 Nagasaki Foreign Settlement Research Group, Nagasaki: People, Places and Scenes of the Nagasaki Foreign Settlement 1859 to 1941, www.nfs.nias.ac.jp (accessed 25 October 2005). 14 Kusama Shunrō, Yokohama yōshoku bunka kotohajime (Tokyo, 1999), pp. 183–7, 194. 204
15 Gregory Houston Bowden, British Gastronomy: The Rise of Great Restaurants (London, 1975); Beat Kümin, ‘Eating Out Before the Restaurant: Dining Cultures in Early-Modern Inns’, in Eating Out in Europe: Picnics, Gourmet Dining and Snacks since the Late Eighteenth Century, ed. M. Jacobs and P. Scholliers (Oxford and New York, 2003), pp. 71–87; John Burnett, England Eats Out: A Social History of Eating Out in England from 1830 to the Present (Harlow, 2004), pp. 70–79. 16 Hugh Cortazzi, Victorians in Japan: In and Around the Treaty Ports (London and Atlantic Highlands, nj, 1987), pp. 166–7. 17 Kusama, Yokohama yōshoku bunka kotohajime, pp. 182, 187. 18 Nagasaki Foreign Settlement Research Group, Nagasaki. 19 Sakurai Miyoko, ‘Meiji kōki no toshi no shokuseikatsu: Jōryū kaisō no shufu no nikki o chūshin ni’, Tōkyō kaseigakuin daigaku kiyō, 36 (1996), pp. 25–34. 20 Cortazzi, Victorians in Japan, p. 119. 21 For a more elaborate account on the subject, see Harada Nobuo, Edo no ryōri shi (Tokyo, 1989), and Harada Nobuo, ‘Edo no tabemonoya: Furiuri kara ryōri chaya e’, in Rakugo ni miru shoku bunka, ed. Tabi no Bunka Kenkyūjo (Tokyo, 2000), pp. 105–27. A good account on pre-modern Japanese restaurant culture in English is provided by Naomichi Ishige, The History and Culture of Japanese Food (London, 2001), pp. 117–28, and Matsunosuke Nishiyama, Edo Culture: Daily Life and Diversions in Urban Japan, 1600–1868 (Honolulu, hi, 1997), pp. 164–78. 22 Harada, Edo no ryōri shi, pp. 104–31. 23 Nihon Fūzokushi Gakkai, ed., Zusetsu Edo jidai shokuseikatsu jiten (Tokyo, 1989), pp. 216–17, 244, 279–80; Nishiyama Matsunosuke et al., eds, Edogaku jiten (Tokyo, 1984), pp. 257–67. 24 Etchū Tetsuya, ‘Tēburu no shoku: Nagasaki o chūshin to shita nanban, kara, akahige no shoku’, in Gairai no shoku no bunka, ed. Kumakura I. and Ishige N. (Tokyo, 1988), pp. 103–18; Tanaka Seiichi, Ichii taisui: Chūgoku ryōri denrai shi (Tokyo, 1987), pp. 138–42. 25 Kusama Shunrō, ‘Seiyō no shokubunka juyō no katei to kyōiku: Meiji shoki no Yokohama mainichi shinbun no yakuwari’, in Nihon no shokubunka 8: Ibunka to no sesshoku to juyō, ed. Haga N. and Ishikawa H. (Tokyo, 1997), p. 142. 26 Chamberlain and Mason, A Handbook for Travellers in Japan, pp. 4–7. 27 Yō Maenobō, Meiji seiyō ryōri kigen (Tokyo, 2000), p. 23. 28 Ibid., pp. 24–31. 29 Henry D. Smith ii, ‘The Edo–Tokyo Transition: In Search of Common Ground’, in Japan in Transition from Tokugawa to Meiji, ed. M. B. Jansen and G. Rozman (Princeton, nj, 1986), p. 354. 30 Stephen Mennell, All Manners of Food: Eating and Taste in England and France from the Middle Ages to the Present (Oxford, 1985), pp. 134–5. 31 Maenobō, Meiji seiyō ryōri kigen, pp. 88–9. 32 Shūkan Asahi, ed., Meiji, Taishō, Shōwa nedan no fūzoku shi (Tokyo, 1987), vol. i, pp. 11, 23, 35, 47, 121, 125, 157. 33 Maenobō, Meiji seiyō ryōri kigen, p. 85. 34 Sakurai, ‘Meiji kōki no toshi no shokuseikatsu’, p. 30; Maenobō, Meiji seiyō ryōri 205
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Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
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Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
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Contents Introduction 7 1 Western F
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A contemporary home meal. (Chikuzen
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multiculturalism in contemporary Ja
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themselves experts on it. They all
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entremets Pudding à la Diplomate M
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controlled the emperor. The only st
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Eating for ‘Civilization and Enli
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the daily life of the Palace at all
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The new faces, the old historical n
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was to become the crucial strategy
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concern ‘to preserve draft animal
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various types of meat indicates tha
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Westerners slaughtering and butcher
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Japanese enjoying beef stew, from K
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of the meat-eating taboo fitted per
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Foreign settlement house in Yokoham
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My health is miserable, my appetite
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Dining-room of the Grand Hotel in Y
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William Gray Dixon (1854-1928), who
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opened in 1863, may have been prece
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Prices of set menus at top Western-
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Poached eggs Omelettes Beefsteak Co
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uilding blocks for the new dining s
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Lunch room at the Takashimaya depar
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interconnectedness between food-pro
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Three Strengthening the Military Fa
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further inhibited their diffusion.
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the hope of increasing sales, Ichit
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in Meiji Japan. Yanagisawa Sakichi
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dwarfish - too small, in fact, for
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quo, by discarding the prevailing p
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usually consisted of a bowl of rice
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Modernizing Military Catering Berib
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availability of foodstuffs. Moreove
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Fried rice Boiled rice and barley s
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were easiest to procure on location
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in the military was also far above
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division (and its location) Imperia
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homogenizing effect of industrially
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Conscripts at table, 1938. new tast
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Soldiers preparing rice balls, 1937
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Although serving the interests of t
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‘A Page from the Accounting Book
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A middle-class family at dinner, a
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An urban working family at a shared
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An issue of the magazine Fujin zass
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ecame a standard sight at Western-i
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they affected the cooking practices
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to try new recipes and made homemak
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A weekly menu (side dishes to be se
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An array of methods was employed by
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were sweet azuki bean soup with mil
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The style is known nowadays under t
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However, the principles of beauty o
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Japanese home cookery for future ge
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City dwellers planting vegetables b
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The ‘Rising Sun Lunch Box’ (Hin
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conscription made modern nation sta
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made public on a daily basis by the
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menus - were propagated as an examp
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Ship’s biscuits factory, c. 1940s
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than rice (which became increasingl
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In the long run, the wartime ration
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Wartime communal cooking provided a
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Defeat: Japan in the Wake of World
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1955 Eiyō no seirigaku [Physiology
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Six The Culinary Consequences of Ja
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hishio, is recorded to have been us
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A Chinese servant waiting on Wester
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Chinatown restaurant. Only a handfu
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A typical rāmen restaurant in rura
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kyōkasho (‘Catering Textbook for
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was supplied, largely illegally, by
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historically embedded than is gener
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- Page 202 and 203: References Introduction 1 Michael A
- Page 204 and 205: 6 Ōhama and Yoshihara, Edo, Tōky
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- Page 212 and 213: Kinenkai, ed., Sūji de miru Nihon
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- Page 216 and 217: 61 Kumakura Isao, ‘Tea and Japan
- Page 218 and 219: 19 Imada Setsuko, ‘Dainiji sekai
- Page 220 and 221: 5 Noguchi Hokugen, ‘Shokumotsu ch
- Page 222 and 223: also Chōsen Sōtokufu Shokusankyok
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- Page 226 and 227: ed. K. J. Cwiertka with B.C.A. Walr
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