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setchū ryōri) 23, 101, 106–8
national 11–12, 176, 178–9
Western 18, 21, 23, 108, 148; see also
yōshoku
cuisine, Japanese (washoku)
aesthetic qualities of 21, 88, 103,
108, 109–10, 112–13, 176, 179
American influence on 130, 159,
164–7
characteristics of 7–9, 10–11, 176
globalization of 9–11, 164–7, 181–99
honzen cuisine 110
kaiseki cuisine 110–13, 112, 113, 176,
179, 191
making of 55, 84–6, 88, 112–13,
115, 136, 148, 175–6
structure of 21, 138–40, 176
department stores 50–54, 50, 51, 52, 53
diet
and economic affluence 114,
158–61, 167–8, 172–3, 176
homogenization of 10–11, 49, 61, 79,
81–2, 84–6, 88, 115, 119, 131–2
monotonous 77, 95, 101–3
pre-modern 10–11, 42–3, 66–8, 79,
81, 95, 139–40
urban versus rural 61, 66–8, 79, 81,
85–6, 115, 116, 130–31, 136,
151, 159, 167–8, 173
domesticity, ideology of (ikka danran)
88–91, 100, 103, 114
Dury, Leon 61
‘Edo affliction’; see beriberi
electric kitchen appliances 113, 159–60
Emperor Meiji 13–15, 23–4, 29, 34, 47
ethnic food 7, 9, 139, 141, 154, 179, 182
ethnic minorities 138
family meal, new ideal of 88, 92–4, 95,
96, 99, 114
flavouring agents 46, 48–9, 60, 82, 106,
126, 127
237
miso 10, 81, 85, 139–40
soy sauce (shōyu) 8, 10, 48–9, 61,
68, 79, 81–2, 84, 139–40, 176
food additives 132–3
food and imperialism 63, 139–40, 144–5,
147–8, 150, 155, 176, 182
food and national identity 12, 23–4, 152,
164–5, 178
food and nostalgia 101, 144, 167–9, 173,
179
food and politics 14–15, 17, 21–3, 33–4,
54–5, 87–8, 119–20; see also food
and imperialism
food and profit 41, 43–4, 54–5, 136,
179–80
food industry 54, 60–63, 65, 113, 117,
124–7, 136–7, 159–61, 169, 174
Food Management Law 129
food safety 167, 169–70,172–3
food stalls 42, 53, 95, 145, 149, 150
food trends, fashions 9, 22–4, 31–3, 36,
41, 54, 126–7, 108, 144, 147, 154,
165–6, 169–70, 172–3, 181, 186–7,
189, 194–5
foreign residents (in Japan)
Chinese 56–7, 141–4
Koreans 149–50, 152
Westerners 16, 29–31, 35–9, 41, 42,
47, 96, 141–3, 159, 184, 187, 188
Fujioka Shigetsugu 186–7
Fukuzawa Yukichi 18, 28, 33,
gastronomy
multicultural 42, 43, 50–55, 136
pre-modern 42–3, 95
Genroku Sushi 191
‘good wife, wise mother’ (ryōsai kenbo)
87, 91, 176
gyūnabe 31–3; see also sukiyaki
Harris, Townsend 37–8
home, concept of (katei) 88–9
home economics 48, 87, 88, 96–8, 101–3,
134–5