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hotels, Western-style 39–40
Fujiya Hotel, Miyanoshita 43, 43
Grand Hotel, Yokohama 39, 40, 45
Imperial Hotel, Tokyo 14, 46, 47
Tsukiji Hotel (Hôtel des Colonies),
Tokyo 13–14, 45
(Tsukiji) Seiyōken Hotel, Tokyo
14, 15, 45, 46
housewife (shufu) 90–91, 122
Hozumi Utako 41, 46
Hygiene Experiment Stations 120
Imperial Government Institute for
Nutrition 121–2
Industrial Guild of Ship’s Biscuits
Manufacturers 124–5
Inoue Kaoru 46
Ishiguro Tadanori 70
Japan Consumers’ Co-operative Union
(Seikyō) 169–71, 172
Japan Women’s College 101–3, 102, 106,
108
Japanese residents (outside Japan) 140,
147, 181–2, 183, 185, 190
Japaneseness 10, 88, 109, 112, 144, 175–6,
191
kaitenzushi see rotary sushi
Kanagaki Robun 31, 32, 33
Kanie Ichitarō 58–60, 58
Katamura Shigetake 14, 45
Kawashima Shirō 82, 136
Kitaōji Rosanjin 112
kitchens 53, 78, 91, 123–4
Knollys, Major Henry 36–7, 63–4, 66, 143
Koike Masanao 120
Korean cuisine 9, 148–9, 155; see also
yakiniku
Kusano Jōkichi 43–4, 55
lara (Licensed Agencies for Relief in
Asia) 156, 157
238
Marumoto Shōzō 124
Matsuda Masanori 61
McDonald’s 164–6, 164, 170
meal, Japanese-style 7–8, 67–8, 84, 95
meat; see also beef and canned food
ambiguous position of 28–9
and Western residents 29–31
as medicine 27
dishes 8, 45, 48–9, 54, 77, 80, 82,
85, 107, 147, 150, 162–3, 172
fashion for eating 24, 31–4
growing consumption of 151
taboo against eating 24–7
‘Meatless Day’ 128
Meidi-ya 54, 147
Meiji elite 18, 20–23, 23, 33, 41, 89, 139,
149
Meiji Restoration 15, 16–17, 140
menus 13, 36, 45, 46, 47–9, 52–3, 72,
75–6, 85, 104–6, 110, 111, 137,
162–3, 184, 198
middle class 87–90, 92, 98–101, 108
‘new middle class’ 89–90
military catering 65–6, 70–73, 123–4
and Chinese dishes 79, 82–5, 147–8
and yōshoku 76, 79, 80, 82–5
reforming 76–9
military rations 63, 64–5, 66, 72, 75, 136
Misono 186–8
modernity 15–17, 23–4, 31–3, 49–52, 62,
81, 84, 87, 91, 98–9, 119–20, 138,
144, 147, 152, 177–8
Mori Ōgai (Rintarō) 65, 69, 120
Mos Burger 170, 172, 172
national culture 20, 23–4, 177–8
National Nutrition Survey 135
Nobu 183–4, 191
Noguchi Hokugen 21, 139
noodles and dumplings 7, 42, 45, 53, 85,
104, 107, 130, 134, 140, 148, 163,
193, 197–9
gyōza 7, 140–41, 199
rāmen (Shina soba) 141, 144–7, 145,