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Customers did not order their sushi from the chef, as was the general
practice, but chose from a variety of already prepared plates that rotated
in front of them on a conveyor belt. The lore goes that Shiraishi got the
inspiration for developing this system of serving sushi while watching a
beer assembly line at a brewery. 32
Nigirizushi (‘squeezed’ or ‘hand-moulded’ sushi), also referred to as
Edomaezushi (‘sushi from Edo’), is along with sushi rolls (makizushi) the
most popular type of sushi. In Japan, it became well known and widely
consumed beyond the Tokyo area where it originated only during the
1950s. It was a relatively expensive meal; in 1953 one had to pay 100 yen
for a portion of sushi, while soba noodles could be had for 25–30 yen. 33
Although also available in department store restaurants, sushi was usually
consumed at specialist shops (sushiya), which were quite costly and
required familiarity with the sushi-ordering etiquette, since it had to be
ordered directly from the chef. By providing a much cheaper alternative
and eliminating the necessity of interaction with the chef, conveyor-belt
sushi bars put nigirizushi within the reach of anybody. They became
nationally known after the Osaka Expo in 1970, but were generally held in
low esteem. The customers of Shiraishi’s first bar ate standing (tachigui),
which has negative connotations in Japanese culture. 34 Later, rather uncomfortable
bar stools were provided, but generally kaitenzushi emanated the
aura of a factory canteen. The fact that kaitenzushi restaurants made use of
Kaitenzushi restaurant in Osaka, 1989.
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