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15 Gregory Houston Bowden, British Gastronomy: The Rise of Great Restaurants
(London, 1975); Beat Kümin, ‘Eating Out Before the Restaurant: Dining Cultures
in Early-Modern Inns’, in Eating Out in Europe: Picnics, Gourmet Dining and
Snacks since the Late Eighteenth Century, ed. M. Jacobs and P. Scholliers (Oxford
and New York, 2003), pp. 71–87; John Burnett, England Eats Out: A Social History
of Eating Out in England from 1830 to the Present (Harlow, 2004), pp. 70–79.
16 Hugh Cortazzi, Victorians in Japan: In and Around the Treaty Ports (London and
Atlantic Highlands, nj, 1987), pp. 166–7.
17 Kusama, Yokohama yōshoku bunka kotohajime, pp. 182, 187.
18 Nagasaki Foreign Settlement Research Group, Nagasaki.
19 Sakurai Miyoko, ‘Meiji kōki no toshi no shokuseikatsu: Jōryū kaisō no shufu no
nikki o chūshin ni’, Tōkyō kaseigakuin daigaku kiyō, 36 (1996), pp. 25–34.
20 Cortazzi, Victorians in Japan, p. 119.
21 For a more elaborate account on the subject, see Harada Nobuo, Edo no ryōri shi
(Tokyo, 1989), and Harada Nobuo, ‘Edo no tabemonoya: Furiuri kara ryōri chaya
e’, in Rakugo ni miru shoku bunka, ed. Tabi no Bunka Kenkyūjo (Tokyo, 2000),
pp. 105–27. A good account on pre-modern Japanese restaurant culture in English
is provided by Naomichi Ishige, The History and Culture of Japanese Food
(London, 2001), pp. 117–28, and Matsunosuke Nishiyama, Edo Culture: Daily Life
and Diversions in Urban Japan, 1600–1868 (Honolulu, hi, 1997), pp. 164–78.
22 Harada, Edo no ryōri shi, pp. 104–31.
23 Nihon Fūzokushi Gakkai, ed., Zusetsu Edo jidai shokuseikatsu jiten (Tokyo, 1989),
pp. 216–17, 244, 279–80; Nishiyama Matsunosuke et al., eds, Edogaku jiten
(Tokyo, 1984), pp. 257–67.
24 Etchū Tetsuya, ‘Tēburu no shoku: Nagasaki o chūshin to shita nanban, kara,
akahige no shoku’, in Gairai no shoku no bunka, ed. Kumakura I. and Ishige N.
(Tokyo, 1988), pp. 103–18; Tanaka Seiichi, Ichii taisui: Chūgoku ryōri denrai shi
(Tokyo, 1987), pp. 138–42.
25 Kusama Shunrō, ‘Seiyō no shokubunka juyō no katei to kyōiku: Meiji shoki no
Yokohama mainichi shinbun no yakuwari’, in Nihon no shokubunka 8: Ibunka to no
sesshoku to juyō, ed. Haga N. and Ishikawa H. (Tokyo, 1997), p. 142.
26 Chamberlain and Mason, A Handbook for Travellers in Japan, pp. 4–7.
27 Yō Maenobō, Meiji seiyō ryōri kigen (Tokyo, 2000), p. 23.
28 Ibid., pp. 24–31.
29 Henry D. Smith ii, ‘The Edo–Tokyo Transition: In Search of Common Ground’,
in Japan in Transition from Tokugawa to Meiji, ed. M. B. Jansen and G. Rozman
(Princeton, nj, 1986), p. 354.
30 Stephen Mennell, All Manners of Food: Eating and Taste in England and France
from the Middle Ages to the Present (Oxford, 1985), pp. 134–5.
31 Maenobō, Meiji seiyō ryōri kigen, pp. 88–9.
32 Shūkan Asahi, ed., Meiji, Taishō, Shōwa nedan no fūzoku shi (Tokyo, 1987), vol. i,
pp. 11, 23, 35, 47, 121, 125, 157.
33 Maenobō, Meiji seiyō ryōri kigen, p. 85.
34 Sakurai, ‘Meiji kōki no toshi no shokuseikatsu’, p. 30; Maenobō, Meiji seiyō ryōri
205