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the catering departments of each school, and it does not seem surprising that military mainstays were well represented in school lunch menus. We may presume that military cooks and other individuals educated during the 1940s system of militarized nutritional education (see chapter Five) found employment as school lunch caterers. During the 1950s and early 1960s curries, deep-fried whale meat, deep-fried bread (agepan), tenpura and macaroni with vegetables ranked among the most popular dishes among children. 20 The creativity of caterers increased hand in hand with economic affluence . Dishes served in 1965 along with bread and milk at schools in different parts of Japan. dishes location Whale meat simmered with ketchup Ōita prefecture Borsch, apple Tottori prefecture Sweet and sour whale meat Tokushima prefecture Beef curry Mie prefecture Deep-fried breaded cod with Tartar Saitama prefecture sauce, boiled potatoes, strawberries Whale meat and liver in tomato sauce Okayama prefecture with cheese, tōfu with peanut dressing, karintō Pieces of deep-fried chicken dusted with Hyōgo prefecture seasoned flour and boiled cabbage Deep-fried breaded horse mackerel, Ehime prefecture French salad Croquette, vegetables in vinegar dressing Ōita prefecture Egg salad, cheese Akita prefecture Stew, green tea confection Gunma prefecture Fruit salad, cheese Fukushima prefecture Spaghetti with meat sauce, breaded Kanagawa prefecture deep-fried pork cutlet Spaghetti with meat sauce, boiled egg, Wakayama prefecture tangerine Spaghetti mixed with dry curry, Ibaraki prefecture French salad 21 162
dishes location Sweet potato in tomato sauce, egg-drop soup Kanagawa prefecture Tōfu stir-fried with curry, margarine Wakayama prefecture Miso-flavoured stew, jam Miyagi prefecture Minced beef and tōfu dumplings, shredded cabbage, Japanese summer orange Yamaguchi prefecture Western-style oden, jam Miyagi prefecture Deep-fried whale meat, soused Chinese cabbage Ōita prefecture Stewed soybeans and pork Kyoto prefecture The popularization of bread and familiarizing the post-war generation with the custom of milk drinking, hitherto practically non-existent in Japan, are clearly the chief legacies of the school lunch programme. 22 As Ehara Ayako explains, however, school lunches are also responsible for the indiscriminate mixing of foods in one meal; the school lunch system provides an explanation for the bizarre combinations that adult Japanese today tend to assemble at buffet-style restaurants and even serve to their children at home. 23 One of the distinctive characteristics of menu planning in the schools is the prevalence of meals of indeterminate nationality – a combination of Japanese and Western elements. For example, a meal might consist of udon noodles, curry stew, age-pan, and milk. Udon is a traditional Japanese food and carbohydrate that stands on its own as a complete meal when served in a broth with additional ingredients. To combine it with bread seems odd, therefore, whether from a Japanese or a Western perspective. Another meal might consist of a breaded and deep-fried boiled egg, zōni (a seasoned broth with simmered vegetables and rice cakes, traditionally served at New Year’s), fruit, bread and yogurt. This sort of East–West hodgepodge provided sufficient energy and protein, but it was hardly a model of balance in either content or taste. It complicated the job of teaching children mealtime etiquette and interfered with the transmission of Japan’s traditional dietary culture. In short, the initial imperative of providing maximum nourishment at low cost, without regard to the balance or harmony of the menu, set the tone for 163
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Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
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Modern Japanese Cuisine Food, Power
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Contents Introduction 7 1 Western F
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A contemporary home meal. (Chikuzen
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multiculturalism in contemporary Ja
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themselves experts on it. They all
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entremets Pudding à la Diplomate M
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controlled the emperor. The only st
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Eating for ‘Civilization and Enli
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the daily life of the Palace at all
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The new faces, the old historical n
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was to become the crucial strategy
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concern ‘to preserve draft animal
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various types of meat indicates tha
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Westerners slaughtering and butcher
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Japanese enjoying beef stew, from K
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of the meat-eating taboo fitted per
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Foreign settlement house in Yokoham
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My health is miserable, my appetite
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Dining-room of the Grand Hotel in Y
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William Gray Dixon (1854-1928), who
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opened in 1863, may have been prece
Page 48 and 49:
Prices of set menus at top Western-
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Poached eggs Omelettes Beefsteak Co
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uilding blocks for the new dining s
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Lunch room at the Takashimaya depar
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interconnectedness between food-pro
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Three Strengthening the Military Fa
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further inhibited their diffusion.
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the hope of increasing sales, Ichit
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in Meiji Japan. Yanagisawa Sakichi
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dwarfish - too small, in fact, for
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quo, by discarding the prevailing p
Page 70 and 71:
usually consisted of a bowl of rice
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Modernizing Military Catering Berib
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availability of foodstuffs. Moreove
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Fried rice Boiled rice and barley s
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were easiest to procure on location
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in the military was also far above
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division (and its location) Imperia
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homogenizing effect of industrially
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Conscripts at table, 1938. new tast
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Soldiers preparing rice balls, 1937
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Although serving the interests of t
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‘A Page from the Accounting Book
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A middle-class family at dinner, a
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An urban working family at a shared
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An issue of the magazine Fujin zass
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ecame a standard sight at Western-i
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they affected the cooking practices
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to try new recipes and made homemak
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A weekly menu (side dishes to be se
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An array of methods was employed by
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were sweet azuki bean soup with mil
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The style is known nowadays under t
Page 114 and 115: However, the principles of beauty o
Page 116 and 117: Japanese home cookery for future ge
Page 118 and 119: City dwellers planting vegetables b
Page 120 and 121: The ‘Rising Sun Lunch Box’ (Hin
Page 122 and 123: conscription made modern nation sta
Page 124 and 125: made public on a daily basis by the
Page 126 and 127: menus - were propagated as an examp
Page 128 and 129: Ship’s biscuits factory, c. 1940s
Page 130 and 131: than rice (which became increasingl
Page 132 and 133: In the long run, the wartime ration
Page 134 and 135: Wartime communal cooking provided a
Page 136 and 137: Defeat: Japan in the Wake of World
Page 138 and 139: 1955 Eiyō no seirigaku [Physiology
Page 140 and 141: Six The Culinary Consequences of Ja
Page 142 and 143: hishio, is recorded to have been us
Page 144 and 145: A Chinese servant waiting on Wester
Page 146 and 147: Chinatown restaurant. Only a handfu
Page 148 and 149: A typical rāmen restaurant in rura
Page 150 and 151: kyōkasho (‘Catering Textbook for
Page 152 and 153: was supplied, largely illegally, by
Page 154 and 155: historically embedded than is gener
Page 156 and 157: Kimch’i production in Japan, 1980
Page 158 and 159: Seven Multiple Circuits of Affluenc
Page 160 and 161: School lunch centred on bread and m
Page 162 and 163: The emergence of a consumer market
Page 166 and 167: Japan’s school lunch program, whi
Page 168 and 169: of the most powerful mechanisms of
Page 170 and 171: A kiosk with food souvenirs is indi
Page 172 and 173: fact that it began to offer to thei
Page 174 and 175: One of the characteristic features
Page 176 and 177: Home Buddhist altar with offerings
Page 178 and 179: mixture of old and new, with clear
Page 180 and 181: ather works as the basic social bon
Page 182 and 183: processes. Examining the strategies
Page 184 and 185: the sugar plantations of Hawai’i,
Page 186 and 187: ‘Local’ sushi varieties of the
Page 188 and 189: Benihana restaurants operate a sush
Page 190 and 191: plate in front of you, chopped up i
Page 192 and 193: their enterprises a financial boost
Page 194 and 195: The late Hara Yōichi, the owner of
Page 196 and 197: obots in sushi making, and that in
Page 198 and 199: Yo!Sushi outlet on the concourse of
Page 200 and 201: A Wagamama menu, 2005.
Page 202 and 203: References Introduction 1 Michael A
Page 204 and 205: 6 Ōhama and Yoshihara, Edo, Tōky
Page 206 and 207: 54 John Mertz, Novel Japanese: Spac
Page 208 and 209: kigen, pp. 74, 80. 35 Basil H. Cham
Page 210 and 211: A Research Review, ed. H. J. Teuteb
Page 212 and 213: Kinenkai, ed., Sūji de miru Nihon
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Japan,, pp. 65, 93. 10 Sand, House
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61 Kumakura Isao, ‘Tea and Japan
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19 Imada Setsuko, ‘Dainiji sekai
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5 Noguchi Hokugen, ‘Shokumotsu ch
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also Chōsen Sōtokufu Shokusankyok
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Shokuryō Shinbunsha (Tokyo, 1990),
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ed. K. J. Cwiertka with B.C.A. Walr
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Japan: The Experience of Japan’s
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Glossary agemono ‘deep-fried dish
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with a variety of fillings and roll
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mirin and sugar: before being eaten
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Marianne Lien and Brigitte Nerlich,
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Agricultural Experiment Stations 58
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hotels, Western-style 39-40 Fujiya
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First Opium 17 Korean 136, 156, 187
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