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The Nineteenth Century to regard Crete as their own country. They had a tag – ‘Me too, my guts are Cretan’. After the Smyrna disaster the refugees started to pour in; somehow they were accommodated, and everyone thought that was the end of the matter. Then, like a thunderbolt, came the news that there was to be a complete and compulsory exchange of populations. The Turks and Christians were staggered – ‘like a couple whose divorce is pronounced at the very moment when they have buried the hatchet’. The Turks were being torn away from land and property, from olives, vines and orchards. ‘From one end of the island to the other the groans of Turks preparing to leave were heard, mingling with those of the refugees who had just been uprooted; and one asked oneself what profit could there be in such distress for the monsters who held human grief at nothing.’ When the ships arrived to take them away a kind of madness possessed the Turks; they tore down the shutters from their houses, ripped off doors and woodwork, intending to take with them these scraps of their former life. The Greek refugees meanwhile, who were to occupy these Turkish houses once they were vacated, took fright and rushed furiously into the Turkish quarter. The militia was called out to restore order. At last the Turks began to wind down towards the quay in a long dejected queue. All night they were embarking, and in the early morning the queue was still there. It was not till about midday that the steamers hooted, the anchors were weighed, and, as the ships began to move away, a great cry arose from thousands of Turkish mouths – ‘Wild and full of entreaty, bitter and menacing, carried by the wind in great surges to the shore.’ In Heraklion Elliadi watched the Turks kneeling in their cemeteries before the time came for them to go. One of the transport ships, the steamer Ujid, was wrecked outside the old Venetian harbour in a gale, so that many of the Turks had to wait, having packed their things and worked themselves up for departure, for new transport. Eleven thousand Muslims left Heraklion alone; thirteen thousand Christian refugees took their place. Very few Turks were able to stay. Among those few who did was one Fatme who worked in the Turkish baths; but then, it turned out that she was not a Turk at all. She was Madame Hortense, the old French courtesan, who after her admirals left Crete had spent twelve years in a brothel in Canea – ‘with those Cretan wild beasts’ – and then become an honest woman, her past shrouded in mystery, in the baths of Rethymnon. With the departure of the Turks a long chapter of Cretan history H 101
The Great Island came to an end. They were soon forgotten. There are now only a few minarets and fountains left as a reminder. As for the refugees, they were soon absorbed, they soon adopted Cretan customs; and some of the customs and practices they brought were woven into the fabric of Cretan life – among them, a new method of fishing by lamplight; so that now on a calm night the sea is dotted with little pinpricks of light.
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THE GREAT ISLAND
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Michael Llewellyn Smith The Great I
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To my Mother and Father
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Plates Eastern Crctc. The north coa
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1 Introduction I first saw Crete, w
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Introduction time from the tyranny
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Introduction And then they were dri
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The Great Island another. He is lik
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The Great Island he found himself i
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2 Roman, Byzantine and Arab Crete N
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The Great Island mother, sometimes
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The Great Island that bishop Titus
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The Great Island earth, which your
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The Great Island still renowned - a
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The Great Island Since the Prophet
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3 Venetian Crete In. the City and i
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The Great Island oppression and ext
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The Great Island the fifteenth cent
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The Great Island In the morning, Ka
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The Great Island political history
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4 Art under the Venetians What did
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The Great Island observed. Art hist
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Fresco of the Abbot Zosimas from th
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The Great Island Orthodoxy; traditi
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The Great Island The Proof by Water
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The Great Island Nor is the doctrin
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The Great Island mainland under Ott
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The Great Island Cretan painter, in
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The Great Island Toplou’s pride i
Page 63 and 64: 5 The Cretan Renaissance Constantin
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Page 67 and 68: The Great Island popular with the p
Page 69 and 70: The Great Island travellers and com
Page 71 and 72: The Great Island of this (the work-
Page 73 and 74: The Great Island Greece. And even S
Page 75 and 76: The Great Island With this light I
Page 77 and 78: The Great Island hostile, for thoug
Page 79 and 80: The Great Island describe as it is
Page 81 and 82: The Great Island disposed of an eff
Page 83 and 84: The Great Island conditions the Cre
Page 85 and 86: The Great Island Turks were concent
Page 87 and 88: A dark age. 7 Turkish Crete What ca
Page 89 and 90: The Great Island Ottoman Empire, wa
Page 91 and 92: The Great Island Turkish women had
Page 93 and 94: The Great Island rapacious, and in
Page 95 and 96: The Great Island It is pleasing tha
Page 97 and 98: The Great Island He said, ‘My dea
Page 99 and 100: The Great Island Was he a foot or a
Page 101 and 102: The Great Island had agreed to the
Page 103 and 104: The Great Island The Cretans did no
Page 105 and 106: The Great Island King; Capodistria
Page 107 and 108: The Great Island mercial interests
Page 109 and 110: The Great Island near Rethymnon. Mu
Page 111 and 112: The Great Island public opinion was
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Page 117 and 118: The Great Island The lonely mountai
Page 119 and 120: The Great Island dragon who guards
Page 121 and 122: The Great Island so, one need hardl
Page 123 and 124: The Great Island Byzantine general
Page 125 and 126: The Great Island This is of no grea
Page 127 and 128: The Great Island body wants to sing
Page 129 and 130: The Great Island way into the Greek
Page 131 and 132: The Great Island Here the nightinga
Page 133 and 134: The Great Island dialogue between t
Page 135 and 136: The Great Island verses, sticking s
Page 137 and 138: The Great Island Personally, I like
Page 139 and 140: 12 Sphakia - Impressions Spkakia. T
Page 141 and 142: The Great Island three-day struggle
Page 143 and 144: The Great Island could be done unti
Page 145 and 146: The Great Island on, the dry stone
Page 147 and 148: The Great Island tremendous beyond
Page 149 and 150: The Great Island With flower of pur
Page 151 and 152: The Great Island We did not actuall
Page 153 and 154: The Great Island it. It is the will
Page 155 and 156: 13 Sphakia - The Vampires Les habit
Page 157 and 158: The Great Island above Sphakia wher
Page 159 and 160: The Great Island night, and as a re
Page 161 and 162: The Great Island When they reach ho
Page 163 and 164: Western Cretan wedding The laouto (
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The Great Island was due to the vio
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The Great Island never saw a vampir
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The Great Island the saint’s day
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14 Return to Asi Gonia I went up to
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The Great Island Greek, on the assu
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The Great Island to. People do slee
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The Great Island the wheel, iron sh
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The Great Island Now Gyp ark is Emm
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The author with Aleko above the gor
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The Great Island free of them and m
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Epilogue At this point one thinks o
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The Great Island also because he wr
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The Great Island ‘Excuse me for s
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The Great Island When all is said a
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The Great Island Mani, by Patrick L
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The Great Island PASHLEY, ROBERT, T
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Du Boulay, Julie, 126, 128-30, 134,
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Skordylis, Syphis, 81 Smyrna disast
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