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Art under the Venetians<br />
of the incorruptible dead, the gathering together of the great communion<br />
of saints, and the terrifying chastisement of the damned. The<br />
central section of the church was reserved for the central mystery of<br />
Christ’s incarnation, life and death. T<strong>here</strong> is the Massacre of the Innocents,<br />
with Herod on his throne, the mother weeping for her slaughtered<br />
children, and Elizabeth with the baby John the Baptist in the protection<br />
of the mountain. (According to the Apocryphal Gospels, when she<br />
heard of the Massacre, she went up to the mountain with John, and<br />
finding no hiding place, cried out, ‘Mountain of God, receive a mother<br />
with her child’. The mountain at once split open and received her.)<br />
Also the Nativity; the Presentation of the Virgin; Paradise; the Descent<br />
to Hades; Herod’s Banquet (Salome dressed as a dancing girl with the<br />
Baptist’s head); and the Last Supper, one of the masterpieces of Cretan<br />
art. The table is spread with Venetian ware, delicate green jugs and<br />
plates of food. Christ is on the left, and the apostles, in two rows behind<br />
the table, stare towards him.<br />
On the west wall, above, the Crucifixion, badly damaged. Below,<br />
the punishment of the sinners again. Men and women, naked, consumed<br />
by the flames. They have their tags: ‘the harlot’, ‘the water<br />
thief who diverts water from his neighbour’s field, and ‘the thief, who<br />
is portrayed in the utmost misery, his hands tied behind his back, with<br />
a spiky long-eared animal, which looks more like a white fox than a<br />
stolen sheep, around his neck.<br />
I have already spent too long on the Panagia Kera, and still not<br />
mentioned much of the contents; the painting of the dome, for instance,<br />
and the calm austere faces of the saints. But it must be clear now what<br />
the church was for the Orthodox: a constant reminder of the gospel<br />
story; a representation of the central story of the Christian faith for a<br />
congregation most of whose members could not read; and more than<br />
this, a representative of the Christian communion, from the lower<br />
ranks (the founders), to the higher (saints and angels). For the Cretan<br />
church, small as it was, had the same function as the great cathedrals<br />
and churches like St Sophia. It was an imitation, in symbol, of the<br />
cosmos. In the cupola, which represents heaven, was Christ. In the<br />
sanctuary, as in the church of St Fanourios at Valsamonero, Christ and<br />
the angels celebrating the Divine Liturgy. Paradise and Hell are in the<br />
middle zone, and earth in the lower. And the Virgin Mary, the most<br />
favoured of God’s creatures, mediates between heaven and earth from<br />
her place in the apse.<br />
The Virgin is venerated above all other saints. Some Orthodox have<br />
believed in her Immaculate Conception, though this is not dogma.<br />
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