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Art under the Venetians<br />

topouli, was a tiny minority. But as time passed the archontopouli and<br />

archontes multiplied. At the same time the Venetian nobility became<br />

gradually Hellenized, and t<strong>here</strong> was intermarriage between the two<br />

races. Thus t<strong>here</strong> emerged a class of Orthodox nobles, with property:<br />

houses in one of the three cities, fiefs in the country. These were the<br />

patrons and pillars of the Church.<br />

They built their own little churches. They patronized the painters,<br />

sometimes from abroad, who made them beautiful. We can sec their<br />

names recorded in the founders’ inscriptions of chapels all over Crete.<br />

Especially in the last fifty years of occupation, when plague and revolts<br />

and Turkish attacks had exhausted the Venetians, and they were at<br />

least sometimes conciliatory, the builders were active. Arkadi, the jewel<br />

of Cretan monasteries, was built in 1587; Gonia in 1618. By about<br />

1600 the two faiths were co-existing happily. Symbol of co-existence is<br />

the church built at Spinalonga by Luca Michiel, Proveditor from 1572<br />

to 1574; it was divided into two parts, one for the Greek, and the other<br />

for the Latin rites.<br />

Gerola in his great work listed more than eight hundred frescoed<br />

churches in Crete. Most of these are fourteenth- or fifteenth-century.<br />

The area of Crete is about 8,300 square kilometres. Thus for every ten<br />

square kilometres t<strong>here</strong> is a painted church. When one considers the<br />

extent of barren mountains – though even <strong>here</strong> t<strong>here</strong> are some chapels<br />

– this abundance of churches is the more striking. It is only in the last<br />

few years that we have been in a position to guess what the churches<br />

looked like in these centuries. For, if interest in Byzantine art is a fairly<br />

new phenomenon, the sub-class of Cretan art was more or less invented<br />

by Gerola, Previous scholars, such as Pashley, went over Crete with a<br />

fine toothcomb finding evidence of classical and even Venetian antiqueties,<br />

but not a single wall-painting; the reasons being first that they did<br />

not recognize the existence of Byzantine art and t<strong>here</strong>fore ignored what<br />

traces t<strong>here</strong> were, and second that many of the frescoes had disappeared.<br />

Just as Minoan art had to be excavated from beneath layers<br />

of earth, so Byzantine paintings had to be uncovered from behind<br />

layers of plaster. The best examples of Cretan art have been cleaned<br />

and restored since the war, and thanks to scholars like Hadzidakis and<br />

Kalokyris they are now being published and discussed.<br />

How to approach these eight hundred churches? ‘The liveliness of<br />

the faces, the expressive movements of the bodies, the translucent<br />

colours make this a remarkable example of Paleclogue expressionismus.’<br />

This sort of thing is intolerable except as the footnote to a comprehendsive<br />

set of reproductions w<strong>here</strong> the parallels and the colours can be<br />

35

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