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The Song<br />

‘That’s how I learnt, that’s how I play,’ he says. ‘What’s it to do with<br />

you?’<br />

‘Nothing,’ they say. ‘But if you want we can teach you to play so<br />

the rocks will dance.’ And they beg him to come out of the circle and<br />

be taught. He goes on playing. They ask, at any rate, for the lyre. He<br />

hands it over taking care not to put his hand outside the circle – for<br />

they would cut it off. A Nereid takes the lyre, plays it for a few moments<br />

with ravishing skill, and gives it back: ‘Take it. You don’t trust us.’<br />

But they go on trying to trick him into putting at least a hand or a<br />

finger outside.<br />

Finally the cock crows. It is the signal for their departure. They cannot<br />

teach him without some payment. So now, carefully, the lyrist<br />

puts just the tip of his little finger outside the circle, and the Nereids cut<br />

it off. In next to no time they have taught him to play like themselves –<br />

and then they are off, to hide during the daylight hours. 4<br />

Cretan instrumentalists have no false modesty. Why should they,<br />

when they are members of an honourable guild? T<strong>here</strong> are probably<br />

less of them now than t<strong>here</strong> once were – it is difficult to be sure of this–<br />

but they are far more mobile than before. A pair of professionals based<br />

on Canea can cover the whole of western Crete, playing at festivals,<br />

and, if they are well known, making records and playing on Canea<br />

radio.<br />

Among the lyrists, singers and poets of Crete, one stands out if only<br />

for his versatility. This is John Dermitzakis, the bard of Sitea. He keeps<br />

a draper’s shop, but is happy enough to put work aside and listen to his<br />

own records with any interested visitors. He plays the lyre, the guitar<br />

and the violin, and composes and sings his own mantinades. As well as<br />

making records he has published his verses, together with a few pithy<br />

moral aphorisms – ‘Death is the fate common to all of us, but we<br />

conquer it with what we create’ - which illustrate the self-confidence I<br />

spoke of. This is particularly well marked in Dermitzakis. His little<br />

book is full of pats on the back from men who approved of his verses.<br />

T<strong>here</strong> is a letter from Spyros Markezinis the political leader; a postcard<br />

from Nikos Kazantzakis in Antibes (‘With much pleasure I read your<br />

mantinades which reminded me of my beloved Crete’); a postcard from<br />

Samuel Baud-Bovy the musicologist; and an intriguing message from<br />

‘Angelika Farmer, Great Missewden’.<br />

Most of Dermitzakis’s verses are of no great interest. I mention him<br />

<strong>here</strong> because he is typical of the rhymadori who have kept the tradition<br />

going. Each of these creators left something behind him; and doubtless<br />

some few of Dermitzakis’s better mantinades will enter the repertory,<br />

123

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