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Sphakia – The Vampires<br />

projected shadows of some distant caravanserai. Or simply mistformations;<br />

for they only come in the misty morning, and the concrete<br />

descriptions of the villagers could as well be based on the known story<br />

of Hadzimichalis as on the physical appearance of the wraiths.<br />

In the blazing midday hours of July it was impossible to imagine<br />

the scene. We sat under a mulberry tree idly eating the fruit and questioning<br />

an old man who claimed to have seen them. But his description<br />

made no sense. Instead of pursuing the matter, we spent the afternoon<br />

bathing in the lagoon below the castle. Which, if you are in the area, do<br />

not miss, for it is the most beautiful place to bathe in Crete, probably<br />

in all the world. The sand shelves suddenly away w<strong>here</strong> the sea begins;<br />

so suddenly, so sheer, that you can dive off firm gold sand into ten feet<br />

of sparkling water.

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