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Sphakia – The Vampires<br />

have always had a reputation for divination by the marks on a sheep’s<br />

shoulderblade. (The abbot of Arkadi told W. R. Halliday early in<br />

this century that the 1866 rebellion was foretold by these means. He<br />

had been told by a travelling German about planchette, and succeeded<br />

in proving to Halliday that it was only impure spirits, and not the souls<br />

of the dead, who wrote messages thus. The abbot was of the opinion<br />

–like all folklorists at all times–that things were not what they had been;<br />

the art of divination was dying. If so it has taken an unconscionable<br />

time to do so.)<br />

Demons, evil spirits and vampires haunt these mountains. T<strong>here</strong> is<br />

an old story, how two men sat up one moonlit night waiting for agrimia<br />

near the gorge of Samaria. Their vigil was disturbed by a great noise,<br />

caused they imagined by overzealous workmen come to hump snow<br />

down to Canea for use in refrigeration. But on going closer they could<br />

distinguish lyres, viols, and other stranger noises such as they had never<br />

heard. Then they knew that these were no men, but members of a<br />

Demons’ Council. At last they saw them –phantoms, male and female,<br />

some mounted, some on foot: the men white as doves, the women fair as<br />

the rays of the sun; winding their ghostly way across the slope.<br />

They were supporting something, as one supports a bier – a girl, it<br />

seems, for they were singing, ‘W<strong>here</strong> are we to take her, the bride, the<br />

lonely bride ?’<br />

When two hunters interrupted them by firing into the company,<br />

those in front cried ‘Who is it?’ and those behind cried ‘They have<br />

killed our bridegroom, they have killed our bridegroom.’ And they<br />

wept and fled.<br />

The superstitions survive, even if battered and eroded by scepticism.<br />

George Psychoundakis claims to have heard a similar ghostly army,<br />

but admits that it can never be seen. When its members are evil spirits,<br />

they come to carry off a soul, when good (but this is rare) t<strong>here</strong> is a<br />

smell of incense in the air around them. George, returning to Asi Gonia<br />

from a neighbouring village, heard the footfalls of a great company<br />

approach. He waited until they passed in front of him, and then,<br />

dismayed because he could see no man, ran back to Asi Gonia and<br />

fetched his relations out to listen. But although he himself could still<br />

hear the drumming of feet, for the others t<strong>here</strong> was only silence.<br />

Two days later an old man died in the neighbourhood.<br />

Ghosts in large numbers are hard to cope with. When they appear<br />

singly t<strong>here</strong> is more opportunity for the Cretan to show ingenuity in<br />

dealing with them; and often the best method is indecent.<br />

T<strong>here</strong> was for instance the vampire in Anopolis, the little village<br />

143

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