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The Great Island<br />

Byzantine general of the Doukas family. The Emir carried off the girl,<br />

settled within the Empire, and was himself baptized. A son was born<br />

to them, named Basil, and later, because of his birth and calling, called<br />

Digenes Akritas; for Digenes means ‘twyborn’ of double birth. The<br />

best of both defender and invader was combined in him. His task was to<br />

pacify the marches of the Empire; and the epic describes how he accomplishes<br />

this, how he marries, and how he finally dies.<br />

T<strong>here</strong> is little of this to be found in Crete. The short ballads of the<br />

Akritic cycle, transmitted from Pontus and Cappadocia through<br />

Rhodes and Cyprus to Crete – all the way from mouth to mouth –<br />

preserve a different atmosp<strong>here</strong>: an atmosp<strong>here</strong> of the magical and the<br />

marvellous, w<strong>here</strong> Digenes’s fists smash rocks, and birds can speak<br />

human words, and horses can weep, and Digenes himself is only one<br />

among many heroic borderers – Porphyrius, Andronicus and so on.<br />

Many of these ballads are found in Crete. But Digenes has caught<br />

the imagination in a way other heroes have not. He has become the<br />

giant hero of Cretan folk lore, and the countryside is dotted with his<br />

memorials.<br />

The Cretans are fond of giants anyway. They call them the Sarandapechi,<br />

the ‘forty-cubit ones’, and they associate them with a legendary<br />

heroic age, as in this story preserved by the noveiist Kondylakis.<br />

On Psiloreiti and its roots t<strong>here</strong> lived originally the Sarandapechi, who were<br />

tall, very tall, and strong. When the flood came, they went up to the top of<br />

Psiloreiti to avoid drowning. They were tall, the mountain was tall, the water<br />

didn’t come up so high as to envelop them. Many days they stood up t<strong>here</strong>,<br />

water up to the neck; and worms emerged from the mud from under their<br />

footprints, and gave them no rest. And w<strong>here</strong> they bent lo catch them, they<br />

slipped and fell and drowned, because they could not raise themselves up<br />

again, whether from their great weight or because their backbones broke.<br />

Of these giants, who are sometimes regarded as ancestors, Digenes is<br />

the greatest. A saddle on a mountain will be ‘the saddle of Digenes’.<br />

The marks on a rock are the prints of his horse’s hooves. T<strong>here</strong> is a<br />

tradition which I heard repeated by a boy on the Messara plain that the<br />

great saddle above Kamares on Psiloreiti (Mt Ida) marks the place<br />

w<strong>here</strong> Digenes rode the mountain. Further down the mountainside<br />

t<strong>here</strong> is a cavity – the spot w<strong>here</strong> Digenes put his foot when he was<br />

thirsty. One foot <strong>here</strong> and one foot on the mountain opposite (right<br />

the other side of the Messara) and he would bend over the plain and<br />

drink from the river that ran below him. But his beard blocked the<br />

river, so that it would overflow and flood the Messara.<br />

110

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