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Introduction<br />

in perfect tune. I seem to remember that George was forced to translate<br />

for the benefit of his friends. A variant reading was noted by Xan<br />

Fielding in his book The Stronghold; broadly speaking the same but<br />

with superior transliteration (‘mpall’ for ‘ball’).<br />

Since that second trip to Crete I have been back five times and<br />

visited most parts of the island. It never ceases to attract. But these<br />

pages are not a day-to-day record of those trips. English readers, or<br />

most of them, are by now familiar with the taste, or at least the description<br />

of the taste, of ouzo, retsina, moussaka and even raki. Rather, <strong>here</strong> is<br />

some of the information, the stories, legends, songs and history which I<br />

should have liked to know when I first went to Crete, and which may be<br />

of some interest to other travellers and Philhellenes.

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