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114 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY FIGURE 12.—Buckskin jacket worn by Captain William Ludlow on the Black Hills Expedition, 1874. Made by Arikara Indians about 1872. Courtesy U.S. Military Academy Museum, West Point. wore a whitish gray hat with broad brim and rather low crown, and a buckskin suit with a fringed welt in the outer seams of the trousers and arms of the blouse. The double-breasted buckskin blouse featured military buttons, open lapels, a turn-down collar, and fringe along the bottom. His brothers, Tom and Boston, were similarly dressed. Several of the remaining officers wore buckskin blouses. Lt. James E. Porter's bullet-riddled jacket was found in the abandoned hostile village, and Captain Tom Custer's buckskin jacket was recovered later, indicating that they wore the coats into battle despite the summer heat. The body of Lt. Donald Mcintosh was also clad in buckskins (Parsons and DuMont, 1953:49-51; Hutchins, 1976:16). It is unfortunate that no such detailed information exists regarding the dress of the host of other soldiers who served out West (Figure 12), although the United States Military Academy Museum has some remarkably fine buckskin outfits that belonged to Army officers on frontier duty, and old photographs bear out their popularity as field dress. Assumedly, Custer's officers were no more or less dashing and picturesque than those in other regiments. The final group brings us full circle. When this project was undertaken, it seemed that the gar ments under consideration were probably made by Indians for Whites. The literature indicated that some of them were made by Whites for Whites. It is now evident from photographs and specimens that some Indians also wore these European adaptations of native material as well. Two notable examples are Curley, Custer's Crow scout, and Red Cloud, the Oglala Sioux chief of chiefs. Both were famous national figures. Both played important roles in tribal and White cultures. Perhaps in their minds it was desirable to retain a certain "Indianness" in their attire to satisfy White curiosity seekers and officials, as well as conservative Indians. At the same time, the elegance of decoration on their clothes may have accurately reflected their enhanced social status and wealth. It seems that Indians faithfully copied European fashion, even when that fashion was derived from their own dress (Figure 13). The tradition of Indian-made clothing for Whites continues. It is strongest in Canada, where high-quality tailored jackets made by native craftsmen in a variety of styles are available from Pointe Bleue, Quebec, to Teslin Lake, British Columbia. A few are made in the United States. In 1969, the writer received a beautiful buckskin jacket as a gift from an Oglala Sioux friend. The Indian received in return a new Stetson cowboy hat, so the traditional exchange of clothing is still viable. With regard to the ornamentation of the type of buckskin garments under consideration, it is worthwhile to note that typical Plains geometric beadwork was observed on only two examples. Decorations, if present, consisted of variations on floral themes in beads or quills applied directly to the leather with no other background. The individual design elements were often somewhat larger and naturally more colorful when done with beads, with the beads usually being of very fine size. Areas decorated generally include the breast, back yoke, pocket flaps, and collar and cuffs of coats. On trousers, the designs usually appear in the front pocket area, down the leg fronts, the cuffs, and the calf area of the back of the leg. A controversy exists as to whether this floral
NUMBER 30 115 FIGURE 13.—Oglala Sioux Chief Red Cloud in European style dress, 1900. (BAE neg. 3238-C Oglala, Smithsonian Institution, National Anthropological Archives, Bureau of American Ethnology Collection.)
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JM*^>T^ Plains Indian Studies A COL
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SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHRO
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Contents Page EDITORS' INTRODUCTION
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Plains Indian Studies Editors' Intr
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NUMBER 30 12:00 p.m. LUNCH 1:30 p.m
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NUMBER 30 comprised some of the ear
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John C. Ewers and William N. Fenton
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^9 ^^^^H/"^V^^^^H P^^B Lf// to n|[/
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John Canfield Ewers and the Great T
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NUMBER 30 13 heavy doses of materia
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NUMBER 30 15 sages from books and a
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NUMBER 30 sault by the medicine pip
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NUMBER 30 19 cused on archeology. T
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NUMBER 30 21 he has viewed statisti
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NUMBER 30 23 Basin Surveys, establi
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Bibliography of John C. Ewers 1932
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NUMBER 30 27 36. The Indian Trade o
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NUMBER 30 29 1966 82. Chiefs from t
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NUMBER 30 31 125. Chippewa, Cree an
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Bibhography of Waldo R. Wedel 1933
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NUMBER 30 35 43. The Missouri River
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NUMBER 30 37 1959 79. An Introducti
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NUMBER 30 39 116. House Floors and
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NUMBER 30 41 phase of the game of m
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NUMBER 30 43 FIGURE 3.—Waldo and
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NUMBER 30 45 came Jack's extensive
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An Historical Character Mythologize
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NUMBER 30 49 ruined"), since the ac
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NUMBER 30 51 a war party that happe
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NUMBER 30 The Legendary Figure An i
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NUMBER 30 their identity to anyone,
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NUMBER 30 57 as the actors approach
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Political Assimilation on the Black
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NUMBER 30 61 and daring on horse-st
Page 69 and 70: NUMBER 30 63 the incident led to hi
Page 71 and 72: NUMBER 30 65 after years of litigat
Page 73 and 74: NUMBER 30 67 vation and before the
Page 75 and 76: NUMBER 30 69 to the financially dis
Page 77 and 78: NUMBER 30 Federal Records Center, D
Page 79 and 80: "Look at My Hair, It is Gray": Age
Page 81 and 82: NUMBER 30 75 suited potential selec
Page 83 and 84: NUMBER 30 77 THE GROS VENTRE BUSINE
Page 85 and 86: NUMBER 30 79 worked to generate sup
Page 87 and 88: NUMBER 30 81 Mountain Crows, and th
Page 89 and 90: NUMBER 30 83 validated and reinforc
Page 91 and 92: NUMBER 30 85 general. The Sun Dance
Page 93 and 94: NUMBER 30 87 spect for ritual leade
Page 95 and 96: NUMBER 30 89 and I don't know what
Page 97 and 98: NUMBER 30 91 ington, D.C: Catholic
Page 99 and 100: NUMBER 30 93 volume 12, book 1. Hou
Page 101 and 102: NUMBER 30 95 ing and travel. Yet ea
Page 103 and 104: NUMBER 30 97 place." The leadership
Page 105 and 106: NUMBER 30 99 (Imuks-ay'k-ni), from
Page 107 and 108: NUMBER 30 101 ical condition were t
Page 109 and 110: NUMBER 30 103 chiefs of the tribe.
Page 111 and 112: Laced Coats and Leather Jackets: Th
Page 113 and 114: NUMBER 30 107 fashion. Far more col
Page 115 and 116: NUMBER 30 109 On the other side of
Page 117 and 118: NUMBER 30 111 FIGURE 10.—White ma
Page 119: NUMBER 30 113 sashes and beadwork.
Page 123 and 124: NUMBER 30 117 Cabinet of Curiositie
Page 125 and 126: NUMBER 30 119 the period has often
Page 127 and 128: NUMBER 30 121 as physically large;
Page 129 and 130: NUMBER 30 123 New Spain and in many
Page 131 and 132: NUMBER 30 125 ita) trader (M. Wedel
Page 133 and 134: NUMBER 30 127 riors and have served
Page 135 and 136: NUMBER 30 129 hunters and traders d
Page 137 and 138: NUMBER 30 131 I have seen no record
Page 139 and 140: NUMBER 30 133 effective enticements
Page 141 and 142: Shelling Corn in the Prairie-Plains
Page 143 and 144: NUMBER 30 137 FIGURE 15.—Oneota s
Page 145 and 146: NUMBER 30 It is possible that still
Page 147 and 148: NUMBER 30 141 canvas on which they
Page 149 and 150: NUMBER 30 143 of September when the
Page 151 and 152: NUMBER 30 gested the use of these i
Page 153 and 154: NUMBER 30 147 Shell and side A, rig
Page 155 and 156: NUMBER 30 ences, demonstrated below
Page 157 and 158: NUMBER 30 151 FIGURE 22.—Vertical
Page 159 and 160: NUMBER 30 153 fig. 12r). Objects of
Page 161 and 162: NUMBER 30 155 editor. Aspects of Up
Page 163 and 164: Bias in the Zooarcheological Record
Page 165 and 166: NUMBER 30 159 population in cultura
Page 167 and 168: NUMBER 30 between sites. Since so m
Page 169 and 170: NUMBER 30 163 pling scheme used. Th
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NUMBER 30 165 MNI MNI FIGURE 25.—
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NUMBER 30 167 taken to contribute t
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NUMBER 30 169 Among the historic Co
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NUMBER 30 171 etery. Keos, 1:129-13
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Some Observations on the Central Pl
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NUMBER 30 175 similarity in the cho
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NUMBER 30 177 N SELECTED ARCHAEOLOG
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NUMBER 30 179 FIGURE 30.—Forest c
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NUMBER 30 181 a long line along the
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NUMBER 30 183 sloping ridge spurs.
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NUMBER 30 hunting and fishing camps
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NUMBER 30 187 should reduce the num
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NUMBER 30 189 has drawn upon models
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NUMBER 30 191 Dean, Seth 1883. Anti
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Paleo-Indian Winter Subsistence Str
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NUMBER 30 195 and late Archaic peri
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NUMBER 30 197 nent is located in th
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NUMBER 30 199 1977-78 caused the ar
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NUMBER 30 201 meat caches, would un
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NUMBER 30 203 published advocating
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NUMBER 30 205 Radiometric determina
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NUMBER 30 207 of butchering. Among
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NUMBER 30 209 as hearths, along wit
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NUMBER 30 211 found. At Locality II
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NUMBER 30 213 and unifacial flake t
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NUMBER 30 extended across Beringia
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NUMBER 30 217 Irving, William N. 19
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REQUIREMENTS FOR SMITHSONIAN SERIES
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