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In 1916 the Licensing Court began re-assessing the number of liquor licences<br />

granted per head of population around Daylesford, closing some premises down.<br />

While the Lafranchis were able to afford the cost of a lawyer to help keep their hotel<br />

open, the closure of others revealed the area's diminishing population. When the<br />

Shamrock was finally closed, Lafranchis' was the only hotel at the crossroads. Its<br />

staff was reduced, however, with the marriage of Giuseppina in 1924 to farmer<br />

Michael Bourke. During their married life the couple lived on farms at Smeaton and<br />

Bungaree, raising four children: Olive, Leo, Mary and Innes. These children and their<br />

cousins often visited their grandmother, aunts and uncle at the Blampied Hotel,<br />

deUghting in the foods which they fetched from their candle-lit cellar.*" Their own<br />

parents also prepared traditional peasant foods, such as potatoes cooked directly over<br />

steaming macaroni ~ a cooking method designed to save the power and a pot.<br />

Potatoes were also used as a thickener in pasta dishes to make the meal more filling.<br />

One dish, recaUed years later by a grand-daughter as bancott, was a type of broth over<br />

which bread topped with cheese was steamed.*^ This was certainly the same dish<br />

pancotto (pane cotto, bread with soup) eaten by Leonardo Pozzi during his journey to<br />

Australia (see Pozzi section) and well known thoughout Italy as zuppa di pane. A<br />

recipe belonging to Giuseppina was similar, comprising bread fried in milk, covered in<br />

cheese, then floated in hot soup. These simple peasant dishes, and the names which<br />

identified them, were passed through several generations of the family ~ linking<br />

cultures and time and again pointing to the central significance of food in the<br />

stmcturing of family life.<br />

176

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