Letter from the Publisher

More documents

Recommendations

Info

$-AC\LE$

• Letter from the Editor in Chief 18 Grand Complications, Vol. VII Beware of systemic paralysis “The Swiss watch industry is fundamentally healthy!” This statement is bandied about by various top managers in the sector based on the latest statistics, as 2010 did indeed end with export figures of more than 16 billion Swiss francs, not far from the historical record set in 2008. The over 22% year-on-year increase was substantially boosted by Asian demand, with Hong Kong single-handedly accounting for almost one-fifth of Swiss watch exports. The upturn is also confirmed on the employment side. After shedding 4,200 jobs in 2009—or 7.9% of its overall numbers—the watch industry is hiring left, right and center. Big names such as Cartier, TAG Heuer and Breguet are swamping headhunters and employment agencies with demands and several hundred positions are still open. Against this backdrop, the 2011 is definitely off to an auspicious start. Wherever haute horology is on show—whether at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) or at BaselWorld, the booths are packed and the crowds flock in. Nonetheless, there is a cloud on this horizon. In 2004, the powerful boss of the Swatch Group, Nicolas G. Hayek, who passed away in June 2010, had reached an agreement with the Swiss Competition Commission (Comco) with a view to definitively ceasing delivery of movement blanks to brands outside the group. The vast majority of the some four million mechanical watches made each year in Switzerland is indeed driven by one of the basis products offered by ETA, a subsidiary company of the Swatch Group. This agreement came into force on January 1, 2011. The seven-year lead-time imposed by the Comco was intended to enable the establishment of one or several alternatives. While efforts to verticalize production have indeed been made by certain brands or groups, one must admit that there are still not a lot of options out there in terms of movement makers. We have seen a number of initiatives—meeting with varying degrees of success—in the peak segment, but there is no real industrial-scale alternative in place to serve the business as a whole. The best-placed operators are currently only able to meet a fraction of the demand. In terms of its know-how and the quality of its watches, the Swiss watch industry is undoubtedly a flourishing sector. The financial crisis it has recently experienced will soon be no more than an unpleasant memory. It must however be careful not to allow a form of systemic paralysis to creep in and undermine its future. Michel Jeannot
The future’s safe. IWC. The future of watchmaking since 1868. Portuguese Perpetual Calendar. Ref. 5021: One thing at IWC always remains the same: the desire to get even better. Here is one of the finest examples, with the largest automatic movement manufactured by IWC, Pellaton winding and a seven-day power reserve. The perpetual calendar shows the date and moon phase and is mechanically programmed until the year 2499. In short: a watch that has already written the future. IWC. Engineered for men. Mechanical IWC-manufactured movement | Pellaton automatic winding system | 7-day power reserve with display | Perpetual calendar (figure) | Perpetual moon phase display | Antireflective sapphire glass | Sapphire-glass back cover | Water-resistant 3 bar | 18 ct white gold
Page 3 and 4: the original annual of the world’
Page 5: PIAGET EMPERADOR COUSSIN Piaget Man
Page 9 and 10: PIAGET EMPERADOR Piaget Manufacture
Page 11 and 12: NEW YORK, NEW YORK A New York City
Page 13 and 14: HANDLE WITH CARE To maintain the be
Page 15 and 16: www.chanel.com
Page 17 and 18: WK RI 6HSWHPEHU ,Q WKH RIILFHV RI W
Page 19: CALIBER RM 017 EXTRA FLAT TOURBILLO
Page 23 and 24: 21 •
Page 25 and 26: Time Space Quantième Perpétuel (G
Page 27 and 28: UNICO GOLD ! "& '. ) "* +! ")*+ '$,
Page 30 and 31: • 28 Grand Complications, Vol. VI
Page 32 and 33: • From day one, Westime has also
Page 34 and 35: • Summary Letter from the Preside
Page 36 and 37: ONLY ONE WATCH MANUFACTURE Our coll
Page 38 and 39: • Web Site Directory A. LAnge & S
Page 40: BR INSTRUMENT MINUTEUR TOURBILLON .
Page 43: www.jacobandco.com 4(%15%.44). 2EVO
Page 47 and 48: HERITAGE IN THE MAKING WWW.PARMIGIA
Page 50: Index IWC SChAFFAUSen AQUATIMER AUT
Page 53 and 54: Limited Edition of 177 pieces www.d
Page 55 and 56: EXCALIBUR RD01SQ - SKELETON DOUBLE
Page 57 and 58: Over the years, Longines has dedica
Page 59 and 60: REPETITION MINUTE © =(3+
Page 61 and 62: ClOSe-up On Calendar WaTCHeS Hours,
Page 63 and 64: It was on this double month-and-yea
Page 65 and 66: They were divided into three ten-da
Page 67 and 68: how does it work? The simple calend
Page 69 and 70: 10 6 8 10. iwC, Portuguese Tourbill
Page 71 and 72:
7 4 5 8 6 6. Jaquet droz, Grande Da
Page 73 and 74:
1. rolex, Oyster Perpetual Day-Date
Page 75 and 76:
1. Girard-Perregaux, Vintage 1945 S
Page 77 and 78:
1 1. iwC, Da Vinci Perpetual Calend
Page 79 and 80:
6 Calendars 77 •
Page 81 and 82:
4 5 1. vacheron Constantin, Patrimo
Page 83 and 84:
6. de Grisogono, Instrumento Novant
Page 85 and 86:
2 Calendars 83 •
Page 87 and 88:
A. LANGE & SÖHNE LANGEMATIK PERPET
Page 89 and 90:
BLANCPAIN L-EVOLUTION SEMAINIER GRA
Page 91 and 92:
GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SENATOR PERPETU
Page 93 and 94:
GUY ELLIA TIME SPAcE QUANTIEME PERP
Page 95 and 96:
IWc ScHAFFHAUSEN DA VINcI PERPETUAL
Page 97 and 98:
IWc ScHAFFHAUSEN PORTUGUESE PERPETU
Page 99 and 100:
PATEK PHILIPPE ANNUAL cALENDAR cHRO
Page 101 and 102:
PIAGET PIAGET EMPERADOR cOUSSIN - R
Page 103 and 104:
ROGER DUBUIS EXcALIBUR PERPETUAL cA
Page 105 and 106:
ULYSSE NARDIN EL TORO - REF. 322-00
Page 107 and 108:
VAcHERON cONSTANTIN PATRIMONY TRADI
Page 109 and 110:
ZENITH AcADEMY QUANTIEME PERPETUEL
Page 111 and 112:
For watchmaking purists, a “compl
Page 113 and 114:
ECOrd-BrEAkInG pOCkET-wATCHES If th
Page 115 and 116:
This complications record was beste
Page 117 and 118:
A USEFUl Or prACTICAl COMplICATIOn
Page 119 and 120:
A. LANGE & SÖHNE SAXoNIA ANNUAL CA
Page 121 and 122:
BLANCPAIN L-EVOLUTION TOURBILLON GM
Page 123 and 124:
FRANCK MULLER TOURBILLON 9850 EVOLU
Page 125 and 126:
HARRY WINStoN MIDNIGHt CHRoNo toURB
Page 127 and 128:
HUBLot LA CLE DU tEMpS - REF. Mp-02
Page 129 and 130:
JAEGER-LeCoULtRE AMVoX3 toURBILLoN
Page 131 and 132:
JAEGER-LeCoULtRE HYBRIS MECHANICA R
Page 133 and 134:
JAEGER-LeCoULtRE MAStER GRANDE tRAD
Page 135 and 136:
pARMIGIANI tECNICA CHRoNo - REF. pF
Page 137 and 138:
ULYSSE NARDIN “GENGHIS KHAN HAUtE
Page 139 and 140:
ULYSSE NARDIN pLANEt EARtH - REF. 9
Page 141 and 142:
VACHERoN CoNStANtIN pAtRIMoNY tRADI
Page 143 and 144:
VACHERoN CoNStANtIN pAtRIMoNY tRADI
Page 145 and 146:
VACHERoN CoNStANtIN QUAI DE L’ILE
Page 147 and 148:
The tourbillon is one of Abraham-Lo
Page 149 and 150:
“Haute horology must open up to t
Page 151 and 152:
Are you planning to work with other
Page 153 and 154:
Tourbillons 151 •
Page 155 and 156:
But you’ve announced the opening
Page 157 and 158:
Bell & Ross CEO Carlos Rosillo says
Page 159 and 160:
“I’m sure there are some who as
Page 161 and 162:
What was your professional backgrou
Page 163 and 164:
How far have you progressed in the
Page 165 and 166:
Richard Mille, RM 017 Extra Flat To
Page 167 and 168:
THE TOURBILLON CRAzE Since the turn
Page 169 and 170:
FLOATING ISLAND Other brands go eve
Page 171 and 172:
Breguet, Marine Tourbillon Chronogr
Page 173 and 174:
On the Tourbillon 24 Seconds Inclin
Page 175 and 176:
A FLURRY OF TOURBILLONS Another tec
Page 177 and 178:
Tourbillons 175 •
Page 179 and 180:
AUDEMARS PIGUET JULES AUDEMARS MINU
Page 181 and 182:
BELL & ROSS BR 01 INSTRUMENT TOURBI
Page 183 and 184:
BELL & ROSS BR 01 INSTRUMENT TOURBI
Page 185 and 186:
BELL & ROSS INSTRUMENT BR MINUTEUR
Page 187 and 188:
BREGUET FUSEE TOURBILLON - REF. 704
Page 189 and 190:
BVLGARI TOURBILLON LUMIERE - REF. B
Page 191 and 192:
CHANEL J12 RETROGRADE MYSTERIEUSE -
Page 193 and 194:
DEWITT TWENTY-8-EIGHT REGULATOR A.S
Page 195 and 196:
FRANCK MULLER TOURBILLON CURVEX POW
Page 197 and 198:
FRéDéRIQUE CONSTANT TOURBILLON MA
Page 199 and 200:
GUY ELLIA TOURBILLON ZEPHYR With a
Page 201 and 202:
GUY ELLIA TOURBILLON MAGISTERE II G
Page 203 and 204:
HUBLOT KING GOLD CERAMIC TOURBILLON
Page 205 and 206:
IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN PORTUGUESE TOURBIL
Page 207 and 208:
JACOB & CO CRYSTAL TOURBILLON - REF
Page 209 and 210:
JACOB & CO RAINBOW TOURBILLON - REF
Page 211 and 212:
JAEGER-LeCOULTRE MASTER TOURBILLON
Page 213 and 214:
PANERAI RADIOMIR TOURBILLON GMT - R
Page 215 and 216:
PARMIGIANI KALPA XL TOURBILLON - RE
Page 217 and 218:
PARMIGIANI TONDA 42 TOURBILLON - RE
Page 219 and 220:
PIAGET ALTIPLANO TOURBILLON GOUSSET
Page 221 and 222:
PIAGET PIAGET EMPERADOR SKELETON TO
Page 223 and 224:
PIAGET PIAGET EMPERADOR TOURBILLON
Page 225 and 226:
PIAGET PIAGET POLO TOURBILLON RELAT
Page 227 and 228:
PIAGET PIAGET POLO TOURBILLON RELAT
Page 229 and 230:
REBELLION REB-5 TOURBILLON ROSE GOL
Page 231 and 232:
RICHARD MILLE RM 020 TOURBILLON POC
Page 233 and 234:
RICHARD MILLE RM 026 TOURBILLON The
Page 235 and 236:
ROGER DUBUIS EXCALIBUR AUTOMATIC TO
Page 237 and 238:
STÜHRLING ORIGINAL APOCALYPSE REVE
Page 239 and 240:
ULYSSE NARDIN FREAK DIAVOLO - REF.
Page 241 and 242:
ULYSSE NARDIN ROYAL BLUE - REF. 799
Page 243 and 244:
VACHERON CONSTANTIN MALTE TOURBILLO
Page 245 and 246:
ZENITH EL PRIMERO TOURBILLON - REF.
Page 247 and 248:
While the striking mechanism is the
Page 249 and 250:
CoMMeMoRaTIVe WaTCHeS 1969 also saw
Page 251 and 252:
Chopard has recently unveiled a col
Page 253 and 254:
Montblanc, Nicolas Rieussec Open Da
Page 255 and 256:
SINGLe CouNTeRS IN THe LIMeLIGHT In
Page 257 and 258:
6 H>C;JC8I>DC EJH=:G L]^aZ dc i]Z i
Page 259 and 260:
Chronographs, Split-Seconds and fly
Page 261 and 262:
The brand from Saxony, Germany has
Page 263 and 264:
and speaking of countdowns, the Ger
Page 265 and 266:
A. LANGE & SÖHNE dOUbLE SPLit - RE
Page 267 and 268:
AUdEMARS PiGUEt ROyAL OAk OFFSHORE
Page 269 and 270:
VLGARi OCtO CHRONOGRAPHE QUAdRi-REt
Page 271 and 272:
GLASHÜttE ORiGiNAL SENAtOR RAttRAP
Page 273 and 274:
HARRy WiNStON OCEAN tRiPLE REtROGRA
Page 275 and 276:
iWC SCHAFFHAUSEN dA ViNCi CHRONOGRA
Page 277 and 278:
iWC SCHAFFHAUSEN PiLOt’S WAtCH CH
Page 279 and 280:
iWC SCHAFFHAUSEN PORtUGUESE yACHt C
Page 281 and 282:
JAEGER-LeCOULtRE dUOMEtRE A CHRONOG
Page 283 and 284:
LONGiNES tHE LONGiNES COLUMN-WHEEL
Page 285 and 286:
PANERAi LUMiNOR 1950 8 dAyS RAttRAP
Page 287 and 288:
PANERAi LUMiNOR 1950 RAttRAPANtE, 4
Page 289 and 290:
PANERAi RAdiOMiR CHRONOGRAPH - REF.
Page 291 and 292:
PAtEk PHiLiPPE SPLit-SECONdS CHRONO
Page 293 and 294:
PiAGEt LiMELiGHt EXCEPtiONAL PiECE
Page 295 and 296:
PiAGEt PiAGEt POLO CHRONOGRAPH iN P
Page 297 and 298:
PiAGEt PiAGEt POLO FORtyFiVE - REF.
Page 299 and 300:
RiCHARd MiLLE RM 025 tOURbiLLON CHR
Page 301 and 302:
tAG HEUER 1916: tHE MikROGRAPH The
Page 303 and 304:
tAG HEUER 1965: CARRERA dAtE 45 Aft
Page 305 and 306:
tAG HEUER 2006: tHE CARRERA CALibRE
Page 307 and 308:
tAG HEUER 2007: GRANd CARRERA CALib
Page 309 and 310:
tAG HEUER 2010: tAG HEUER MONACO V4
Page 311 and 312:
tAG HEUER 2011: tAG HEUER CARRERA M
Page 313 and 314:
ULySSE NARdiN MAXi MARiNE CHRONOGRA
Page 315 and 316:
ULySSE NARdiN MAXi MARiNE diVER CHR
Page 317 and 318:
VACHERON CONStANtiN OVERSEAS CHRONO
Page 319 and 320:
zENitH EL PRiMERO RAttRAPANtE - REF
Page 321 and 322:
Before time was divided into 24 tim
Page 323 and 324:
“We are convinced that there is a
Page 325 and 326:
The pure dial adorned with a vertic
Page 327 and 328:
Jaeger-LeCoultre, Reverso Squadra W
Page 329 and 330:
POINTER-TyPE SySTEM The simplest wa
Page 331 and 332:
Another potential choice is to disp
Page 333 and 334:
DISCS AND WINDOWS Multiple time zon
Page 335 and 336:
AND TIME BECAME UNIVERSAL In 1936,
Page 337 and 338:
AUDEMARS pIGUET JULES AUDEMARS DUAL
Page 339 and 340:
BVLGARI DIAGONO X-pRO - REF. Dp45BS
Page 341 and 342:
de GRISOGONO FUSO QUADRATO N°2 CLO
Page 343 and 344:
de GRISOGONO MECCANICO ROSE GOLD de
Page 345 and 346:
DEWITT THE TRIpLE COMpLICATION-GMT
Page 347 and 348:
HARRY WINSTON OCEAN TOURBILLON GMT
Page 349 and 350:
pANERAI LUMINOR 1950 8 DAYS GMT - R
Page 351 and 352:
pIAGET pIAGET ALTIpLANO DOUBLE JEU
Page 353 and 354:
pIAGET pIAGET EMpERADOR COUSSIN pER
Page 355 and 356:
RICHARD MILLE RM 022 TOURBILLON AER
Page 357 and 358:
ULYSSE NARDIN DUAL TIME - REF. 243-
Page 359 and 360:
ULYSSE NARDIN EXECUTIVE DUAL TIME -
Page 361 and 362:
ULYSSE NARDIN EXECUTIVE LADY - REF.
Page 363 and 364:
VACHERON CONSTANTIN MALTE DUAL TIME
Page 365 and 366:
VACHERON CONSTANTIN OVERSEAS DUAL T
Page 367 and 368:
The choice of the direction in whic
Page 369 and 370:
“We are the very opposite of a fa
Page 371 and 372:
What is your target clientele? Chan
Page 373 and 374:
Chanel, J12 Retrograde Mysterieuse
Page 375 and 376:
A STUNNING VISION The dance of the
Page 377 and 378:
6
Page 379 and 380:
For the Opus 8 by Harry Winston, Fr
Page 381 and 382:
A>C:6G 9>HEA6NH I]Z aViZhi igZcY! X
Page 383 and 384:
AUdEMARS pIGUET jULES AUdEMARS SKEL
Page 385 and 386:
BVLGARI OcTO BI-RETRO - REF. BGO43B
Page 387 and 388:
cHANEL j12 RETROGRAdE MYSTERIEUSE -
Page 389 and 390:
LONGINES THE LONGINES MASTER cOLLEc
Page 391 and 392:
pIAGET pIAGET EMpERAdOR cOUSSIN pER
Page 393 and 394:
pIAGET pIAGET REcTANGLE A L’ANcIE
Page 395 and 396:
ROGER DUBUIS EXCALIBUR DOUBLE TOURB
Page 397 and 398:
VAcHERON cONSTANTIN pATRIMONY cONTE
Page 399 and 400:
Human time is not the same as that
Page 401 and 402:
Never-eNdiNg story the equation of
Page 403 and 404:
6jYZbVgh E^\jZi Vahd X]dhZ id ^cY^X
Page 405 and 406:
Equations of Time 403 •
Page 407 and 408:
BLANCPAIN VILLERET EQUATION MARCHAN
Page 409 and 410:
PANERAI LUMINOR 1950 EQUATION OF TI
Page 411 and 412:
The audible indication of the time
Page 413 and 414:
“The watch industry is experienci
Page 415 and 416:
How about Jaquet Droz, which you ar
Page 417 and 418:
Christophe Claret CEO of Christophe
Page 419 and 420:
=dlZkZg! ^c jckZ^a^c\ ]^h ]dgdad\^X
Page 421 and 422:
Guy Ellia, Répétition Minute Zeph
Page 423 and 424:
LIKE A MUSICAL INSTRUMENT In the 20
Page 425 and 426:
The Challenge RMT-S by the Geneva-b
Page 427 and 428:
I]^h ineZ d[ Y^heaVn ^h eVgi^XjaVga
Page 429 and 430:
THE ULTIMATE SOUND EXPERIENCE Undou
Page 431 and 432:
Finally, an all too rare phenomenon
Page 433 and 434:
AudEMARS pIGuET MILLENARY HANd-WouN
Page 435 and 436:
BLANCPAIN CARROUSEL REPETITION MINU
Page 437 and 438:
BVLGARI oCTo REpETITIoN MINuTES RET
Page 439 and 440:
de GRISoGoNo oCCHIo RIpETIZIoNE MIN
Page 441 and 442:
de GRISoGoNo oCCHIo RIpETIZIoNE MIN
Page 443 and 444:
GuY ELLIA REpETITIoN MINuTE ZEpHYR
Page 445 and 446:
IWC SCHAFFHAuSEN poRTuGuESE MINuTE
Page 447 and 448:
pARMIGIANI ToRIC QuAESToR SKELEToN
Page 449 and 450:
uLYSSE NARdIN CIRCuS - REF. 740-88
Page 451 and 452:
uLYSSE NARdIN GENGHIS KHAN - REF. 7
Page 453 and 454:
uLYSSE NARdIN SAFARI - REF. 729-61
Page 455 and 456:
The moonphase is doubtless the most
Page 457 and 458:
A wINDow oN ThE STARS In western ci
Page 459 and 460:
MooNSTRuCk Another notable current
Page 461 and 462:
A STARRING RoLE Alongside apertures
Page 463 and 464:
=# BdhZg 8^Z ! BdhZg EZgeZijVa Bddc
Page 465 and 466:
BVLGARI GRANDE LUNE - REF. BRRP46C1
Page 467 and 468:
HARRY WINSTON LADY Z - REF. 400/UAM
Page 469 and 470:
PIAGET PIAGET EMPERADOR COUSSIN MOO
Page 471 and 472:
VACHERON CONSTANTIN KALLA LUNE - RE
Page 473 and 474:
VACHERON CONSTANTIN TOLEDO 1952 - R
Page 475 and 476:
Since the development of nautical s
Page 477 and 478:
AN oySTER oN ThE WRIST Rolex named
Page 479 and 480:
Its 2010 version is housed in a DLC
Page 481 and 482:
6bdc\ Y^kZghÉ lViX]Zh! i]ZgZ VgZ b
Page 483 and 484:
Luminox, Deep Dive Diving 481 •
Page 485 and 486:
HARRY WInSTOn OCEAn DIVER - REF. 41
Page 487 and 488:
IWC SCHAFFHAUSEn AQUATIMER DEEP TWO
Page 489 and 490:
PAnERAI LUMInOR 1950 SUBMERSIBLE DE
Page 491 and 492:
ZEnITH DEFY XTREME SEA OPEn Cased i
Page 493 and 494:
Measuring the passing of time is no
Page 495 and 496:
Alarms 493 •
Page 497 and 498:
sTrIkInG InnoVATIons Jaeger-leCoult
Page 499 and 500:
since then other brands have follow
Page 501 and 502:
UnDerWATer soUnDs We are also seein
Page 503 and 504:
BREGUET REVEIL MUsICAL - REF. 7800B
Page 505 and 506:
JAEGER-LeCOULTRE MAsTER MEMOVOX INT
show all

Letter from the Publisher

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

Delete template?

Save as template?