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above Montblanc, Metamorphosis top right Eberhard & Co, Chrono4 Badboy below Jaeger-LeCoultre, AMVOX2 Chronograph Concept bottom right Audemars Piguet, MC12 Tourbillon Chronograph • 250 Grand Complications, Vol. VII CLaSSICISM ReINVeNTeD Chronographs were long distinguished by their rather classic aesthetic appearance, featuring three small totalizers arranged symmetrically. This traditional look is now being swept away by a wave of new models aiming to reinvent the time display. eberhard & Co set the tone by launching the Chrono4, followed in 2010 by the Chrono4 Badboy, which is larger than its predecessor. Its most distinctive feature lies in its four totalizers lined up horizontally. Nonetheless, the most spectacular example of this more unconventional approach is the work of two watchmakers at Montblanc who—thanks to the “Timewriter” concept launched by the brand in 2008 to support creative talents with innovative ideas—developed the Metamorphosis. Moving a dedicated slide-piece at 9 o’clock makes the dial indications of the hours, minutes, seconds and date literally disappear, “magically” replaced by the chronograph counters. To achieve this fascinating result, its creators drew inspiration from the methods used to make automatons. The world of chronographs has also seen the emergence of new materials serving to enhance their sturdiness, lightness or performance, as well as overturning existing design codes. Witness the MC12 Tourbillon Chronograph by audemars piguet, a creation combining high-tech materials with a daring automobile-inspired design. The aMVoX2 Chronograph Concept by Jaeger- LeCoultre has even introduced a mini-revolution in terms of its controls: the traditional pushers have been replaced by a system based on a caseband that swivels slightly along the 9-3 o’clock axis. To start or stop the chronograph, the wearer need only lightly press the upper part of the watch glass, while resetting is done by pressing the lower part. With its Nicolas Rieussec open Date Silicium escapement Chronograph model, Montblanc enters the silicon era while paying tribute to the inventor of the first chronograph.
Montblanc, Nicolas Rieussec Open Date Silicium Escapement Chronograph Chronographs, Split-Seconds and flyback Chronographs 251 •
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the original annual of the world’
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PIAGET EMPERADOR COUSSIN Piaget Man
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PIAGET EMPERADOR Piaget Manufacture
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NEW YORK, NEW YORK A New York City
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HANDLE WITH CARE To maintain the be
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www.chanel.com
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WK RI 6HSWHPEHU ,Q WKH RIILFHV RI W
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CALIBER RM 017 EXTRA FLAT TOURBILLO
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The future’s safe. IWC. The futur
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21 •
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Time Space Quantième Perpétuel (G
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UNICO GOLD ! "& '. ) "* +! ")*+ '$,
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• 28 Grand Complications, Vol. VI
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• From day one, Westime has also
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• Summary Letter from the Preside
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ONLY ONE WATCH MANUFACTURE Our coll
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• Web Site Directory A. LAnge & S
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BR INSTRUMENT MINUTEUR TOURBILLON .
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www.jacobandco.com 4(%15%.44). 2EVO
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HERITAGE IN THE MAKING WWW.PARMIGIA
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Index IWC SChAFFAUSen AQUATIMER AUT
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Limited Edition of 177 pieces www.d
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EXCALIBUR RD01SQ - SKELETON DOUBLE
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Over the years, Longines has dedica
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REPETITION MINUTE © =(3+
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ClOSe-up On Calendar WaTCHeS Hours,
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It was on this double month-and-yea
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They were divided into three ten-da
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how does it work? The simple calend
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10 6 8 10. iwC, Portuguese Tourbill
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7 4 5 8 6 6. Jaquet droz, Grande Da
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1. rolex, Oyster Perpetual Day-Date
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1. Girard-Perregaux, Vintage 1945 S
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1 1. iwC, Da Vinci Perpetual Calend
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6 Calendars 77 •
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4 5 1. vacheron Constantin, Patrimo
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6. de Grisogono, Instrumento Novant
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2 Calendars 83 •
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A. LANGE & SÖHNE LANGEMATIK PERPET
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BLANCPAIN L-EVOLUTION SEMAINIER GRA
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GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SENATOR PERPETU
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GUY ELLIA TIME SPAcE QUANTIEME PERP
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IWc ScHAFFHAUSEN DA VINcI PERPETUAL
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IWc ScHAFFHAUSEN PORTUGUESE PERPETU
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PATEK PHILIPPE ANNUAL cALENDAR cHRO
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PIAGET PIAGET EMPERADOR cOUSSIN - R
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ROGER DUBUIS EXcALIBUR PERPETUAL cA
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ULYSSE NARDIN EL TORO - REF. 322-00
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VAcHERON cONSTANTIN PATRIMONY TRADI
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ZENITH AcADEMY QUANTIEME PERPETUEL
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For watchmaking purists, a “compl
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ECOrd-BrEAkInG pOCkET-wATCHES If th
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This complications record was beste
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A USEFUl Or prACTICAl COMplICATIOn
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A. LANGE & SÖHNE SAXoNIA ANNUAL CA
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BLANCPAIN L-EVOLUTION TOURBILLON GM
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FRANCK MULLER TOURBILLON 9850 EVOLU
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HARRY WINStoN MIDNIGHt CHRoNo toURB
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HUBLot LA CLE DU tEMpS - REF. Mp-02
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JAEGER-LeCoULtRE AMVoX3 toURBILLoN
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JAEGER-LeCoULtRE HYBRIS MECHANICA R
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JAEGER-LeCoULtRE MAStER GRANDE tRAD
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pARMIGIANI tECNICA CHRoNo - REF. pF
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ULYSSE NARDIN “GENGHIS KHAN HAUtE
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ULYSSE NARDIN pLANEt EARtH - REF. 9
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VACHERoN CoNStANtIN pAtRIMoNY tRADI
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VACHERoN CoNStANtIN pAtRIMoNY tRADI
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VACHERoN CoNStANtIN QUAI DE L’ILE
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The tourbillon is one of Abraham-Lo
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“Haute horology must open up to t
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Are you planning to work with other
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Tourbillons 151 •
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But you’ve announced the opening
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Bell & Ross CEO Carlos Rosillo says
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“I’m sure there are some who as
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What was your professional backgrou
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How far have you progressed in the
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Richard Mille, RM 017 Extra Flat To
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THE TOURBILLON CRAzE Since the turn
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FLOATING ISLAND Other brands go eve
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Breguet, Marine Tourbillon Chronogr
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On the Tourbillon 24 Seconds Inclin
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A FLURRY OF TOURBILLONS Another tec
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Tourbillons 175 •
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AUDEMARS PIGUET JULES AUDEMARS MINU
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BELL & ROSS BR 01 INSTRUMENT TOURBI
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BELL & ROSS BR 01 INSTRUMENT TOURBI
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BELL & ROSS INSTRUMENT BR MINUTEUR
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BREGUET FUSEE TOURBILLON - REF. 704
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BVLGARI TOURBILLON LUMIERE - REF. B
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CHANEL J12 RETROGRADE MYSTERIEUSE -
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DEWITT TWENTY-8-EIGHT REGULATOR A.S
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FRANCK MULLER TOURBILLON CURVEX POW
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FRéDéRIQUE CONSTANT TOURBILLON MA
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GUY ELLIA TOURBILLON ZEPHYR With a
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Page 247 and 248: While the striking mechanism is the
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Page 259 and 260: Chronographs, Split-Seconds and fly
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tAG HEUER 1965: CARRERA dAtE 45 Aft
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tAG HEUER 2006: tHE CARRERA CALibRE
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tAG HEUER 2007: GRANd CARRERA CALib
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tAG HEUER 2010: tAG HEUER MONACO V4
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tAG HEUER 2011: tAG HEUER CARRERA M
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ULySSE NARdiN MAXi MARiNE CHRONOGRA
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ULySSE NARdiN MAXi MARiNE diVER CHR
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VACHERON CONStANtiN OVERSEAS CHRONO
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zENitH EL PRiMERO RAttRAPANtE - REF
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Before time was divided into 24 tim
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“We are convinced that there is a
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The pure dial adorned with a vertic
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Jaeger-LeCoultre, Reverso Squadra W
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POINTER-TyPE SySTEM The simplest wa
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Another potential choice is to disp
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DISCS AND WINDOWS Multiple time zon
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AND TIME BECAME UNIVERSAL In 1936,
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AUDEMARS pIGUET JULES AUDEMARS DUAL
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BVLGARI DIAGONO X-pRO - REF. Dp45BS
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de GRISOGONO FUSO QUADRATO N°2 CLO
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de GRISOGONO MECCANICO ROSE GOLD de
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DEWITT THE TRIpLE COMpLICATION-GMT
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HARRY WINSTON OCEAN TOURBILLON GMT
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pANERAI LUMINOR 1950 8 DAYS GMT - R
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pIAGET pIAGET ALTIpLANO DOUBLE JEU
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pIAGET pIAGET EMpERADOR COUSSIN pER
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RICHARD MILLE RM 022 TOURBILLON AER
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ULYSSE NARDIN DUAL TIME - REF. 243-
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ULYSSE NARDIN EXECUTIVE DUAL TIME -
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ULYSSE NARDIN EXECUTIVE LADY - REF.
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN MALTE DUAL TIME
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN OVERSEAS DUAL T
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The choice of the direction in whic
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“We are the very opposite of a fa
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What is your target clientele? Chan
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Chanel, J12 Retrograde Mysterieuse
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A STUNNING VISION The dance of the
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6
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For the Opus 8 by Harry Winston, Fr
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A>C:6G 9>HEA6NH I]Z aViZhi igZcY! X
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AUdEMARS pIGUET jULES AUdEMARS SKEL
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BVLGARI OcTO BI-RETRO - REF. BGO43B
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cHANEL j12 RETROGRAdE MYSTERIEUSE -
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LONGINES THE LONGINES MASTER cOLLEc
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pIAGET pIAGET EMpERAdOR cOUSSIN pER
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pIAGET pIAGET REcTANGLE A L’ANcIE
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ROGER DUBUIS EXCALIBUR DOUBLE TOURB
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VAcHERON cONSTANTIN pATRIMONY cONTE
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Human time is not the same as that
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Never-eNdiNg story the equation of
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6jYZbVgh E^\jZi Vahd X]dhZ id ^cY^X
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Equations of Time 403 •
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BLANCPAIN VILLERET EQUATION MARCHAN
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PANERAI LUMINOR 1950 EQUATION OF TI
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The audible indication of the time
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“The watch industry is experienci
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How about Jaquet Droz, which you ar
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Christophe Claret CEO of Christophe
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Guy Ellia, Répétition Minute Zeph
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LIKE A MUSICAL INSTRUMENT In the 20
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The Challenge RMT-S by the Geneva-b
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I]^h ineZ d[ Y^heaVn ^h eVgi^XjaVga
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THE ULTIMATE SOUND EXPERIENCE Undou
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Finally, an all too rare phenomenon
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AudEMARS pIGuET MILLENARY HANd-WouN
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BLANCPAIN CARROUSEL REPETITION MINU
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BVLGARI oCTo REpETITIoN MINuTES RET
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de GRISoGoNo oCCHIo RIpETIZIoNE MIN
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de GRISoGoNo oCCHIo RIpETIZIoNE MIN
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GuY ELLIA REpETITIoN MINuTE ZEpHYR
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IWC SCHAFFHAuSEN poRTuGuESE MINuTE
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pARMIGIANI ToRIC QuAESToR SKELEToN
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uLYSSE NARdIN CIRCuS - REF. 740-88
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uLYSSE NARdIN GENGHIS KHAN - REF. 7
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uLYSSE NARdIN SAFARI - REF. 729-61
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The moonphase is doubtless the most
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A wINDow oN ThE STARS In western ci
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MooNSTRuCk Another notable current
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A STARRING RoLE Alongside apertures
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=# BdhZg 8^Z ! BdhZg EZgeZijVa Bddc
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BVLGARI GRANDE LUNE - REF. BRRP46C1
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HARRY WINSTON LADY Z - REF. 400/UAM
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PIAGET PIAGET EMPERADOR COUSSIN MOO
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN KALLA LUNE - RE
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN TOLEDO 1952 - R
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Since the development of nautical s
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AN oySTER oN ThE WRIST Rolex named
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Its 2010 version is housed in a DLC
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6bdc\ Y^kZghÉ lViX]Zh! i]ZgZ VgZ b
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Luminox, Deep Dive Diving 481 •
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HARRY WInSTOn OCEAn DIVER - REF. 41
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IWC SCHAFFHAUSEn AQUATIMER DEEP TWO
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PAnERAI LUMInOR 1950 SUBMERSIBLE DE
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ZEnITH DEFY XTREME SEA OPEn Cased i
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Measuring the passing of time is no
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Alarms 493 •
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sTrIkInG InnoVATIons Jaeger-leCoult
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since then other brands have follow
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UnDerWATer soUnDs We are also seein
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BREGUET REVEIL MUsICAL - REF. 7800B
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JAEGER-LeCOULTRE MAsTER MEMOVOX INT
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