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The very first medieval monumental clocks (particularly the 14th- and 15thcentury cathedral clocks) already displayed a number of astronomical indications, some of which were related to the calendar. The astronomical clock on Strasbourg Cathedral, in France, was built between 1547 and 1574 and features a number of complications, including a perpetual calendar displaying the mobile feast days over a hundred-year period. The famous “Zytglogge” (Clock Tower) in Bern, Switzerland (1530) is distinguished by—apart from its animated figurines—an astronomical dial displaying the time, day, date, month, Zodiac sign and moonphase. Calendar displays appeared at a relatively early stage on pocket-watches—well before the minutes and seconds hands. From the late 16th century onwards, certain astronomical watches showed the time, the date, the day the week, the month (with its length) as well as the moonphases and Zodiac signs. Calendar watches subsequently proved a great success, but they were nonetheless merely “simple calendars” requiring manual adjustment after each month with less than 31 days, meaning five times a year. It was not until the late 18th century that the so-called “perpetual calendars” were developed, taking account of the variable lengths of the months and of the leap-year cycle. a complete perpetual calendar was included in the famous “Marie-antoinette” watch by Breguet, which was completed in 1827. Throughout the 19th century, the perpetual calendar established itself as one of the most useful and sought-after complications. The 1920s saw the emergence of the first perpetual calendar wristwatches representing authentic feats of miniaturization. In 1945, rolex claimed the launch of the first wristwatch with date window, the datejust, which a few years later was fitted with a magnifying glass to facilitate reading of the date. The date window subsequently became a classic feature of “simple” calendar watches. In the 1980s, with the rebirth of mechanical watchmaking, the perpetual calendar made a spectacular comeback as a symbol of technical mastery and expertise, and all the major brands were keen to perfect this already highly sophisticated mechanism. The start of the new millennium has witnessed the breakthrough of a complication that was curiously rare until then, the annual calendar, which is more practical than the simple calendar, but less complex and less expensive than the famous perpetual calendars. • 64 Grand Complications, Vol. VII FrOM SKy TO dIal above available in a limited edition of 275 pieces, the Villeret Complete Calendar 8 Jours from Blancpain is powered by the automatic-winding 6639 caliber. below le Brassus in the 19th century, home of audemars piguet, Blancpain, Breguet and many other watchmakers.
how does it work? The simple calendar mechanism operates by means of a reducing gear train activated via the hour wheel. It moves one notch forward with every two turns of the hour wheel (24 hours). The display appears either on a disc bearing the date, or via a hand fixed to the 31day star. Subsidiary indications (day, month) operate according to the same principle. The abC’s oF Calendar waTChes how does it work? The perpetual calendar is distinguished from other types of calendar by the presence of a highly sophisticated toggle (or multiplelever) system that pivots on its axis to drive the various displays. The indications may be displayed by discs or hands. In addition to showing the date, the day and the month, generally complemented by moonphase, many perpetual calendars also show the year number and/or the leap-year cycle. Calendars 65 •
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the original annual of the world’
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PIAGET EMPERADOR COUSSIN Piaget Man
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PIAGET EMPERADOR Piaget Manufacture
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NEW YORK, NEW YORK A New York City
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HANDLE WITH CARE To maintain the be
Page 15 and 16: www.chanel.com
Page 17 and 18: WK RI 6HSWHPEHU ,Q WKH RIILFHV RI W
Page 19 and 20: CALIBER RM 017 EXTRA FLAT TOURBILLO
Page 21 and 22: The future’s safe. IWC. The futur
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Page 25 and 26: Time Space Quantième Perpétuel (G
Page 27 and 28: UNICO GOLD ! "& '. ) "* +! ")*+ '$,
Page 30 and 31: • 28 Grand Complications, Vol. VI
Page 32 and 33: • From day one, Westime has also
Page 34 and 35: • Summary Letter from the Preside
Page 36 and 37: ONLY ONE WATCH MANUFACTURE Our coll
Page 38 and 39: • Web Site Directory A. LAnge & S
Page 40: BR INSTRUMENT MINUTEUR TOURBILLON .
Page 43: www.jacobandco.com 4(%15%.44). 2EVO
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Page 50: Index IWC SChAFFAUSen AQUATIMER AUT
Page 53 and 54: Limited Edition of 177 pieces www.d
Page 55 and 56: EXCALIBUR RD01SQ - SKELETON DOUBLE
Page 57 and 58: Over the years, Longines has dedica
Page 59 and 60: REPETITION MINUTE © =(3+
Page 61 and 62: ClOSe-up On Calendar WaTCHeS Hours,
Page 63 and 64: It was on this double month-and-yea
Page 65: They were divided into three ten-da
Page 69 and 70: 10 6 8 10. iwC, Portuguese Tourbill
Page 71 and 72: 7 4 5 8 6 6. Jaquet droz, Grande Da
Page 73 and 74: 1. rolex, Oyster Perpetual Day-Date
Page 75 and 76: 1. Girard-Perregaux, Vintage 1945 S
Page 77 and 78: 1 1. iwC, Da Vinci Perpetual Calend
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Page 81 and 82: 4 5 1. vacheron Constantin, Patrimo
Page 83 and 84: 6. de Grisogono, Instrumento Novant
Page 85 and 86: 2 Calendars 83 •
Page 87 and 88: A. LANGE & SÖHNE LANGEMATIK PERPET
Page 89 and 90: BLANCPAIN L-EVOLUTION SEMAINIER GRA
Page 91 and 92: GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SENATOR PERPETU
Page 93 and 94: GUY ELLIA TIME SPAcE QUANTIEME PERP
Page 95 and 96: IWc ScHAFFHAUSEN DA VINcI PERPETUAL
Page 97 and 98: IWc ScHAFFHAUSEN PORTUGUESE PERPETU
Page 99 and 100: PATEK PHILIPPE ANNUAL cALENDAR cHRO
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Page 103 and 104: ROGER DUBUIS EXcALIBUR PERPETUAL cA
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Page 107 and 108: VAcHERON cONSTANTIN PATRIMONY TRADI
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Page 111 and 112: For watchmaking purists, a “compl
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Page 115 and 116: This complications record was beste
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A USEFUl Or prACTICAl COMplICATIOn
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A. LANGE & SÖHNE SAXoNIA ANNUAL CA
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BLANCPAIN L-EVOLUTION TOURBILLON GM
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FRANCK MULLER TOURBILLON 9850 EVOLU
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HARRY WINStoN MIDNIGHt CHRoNo toURB
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HUBLot LA CLE DU tEMpS - REF. Mp-02
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JAEGER-LeCoULtRE AMVoX3 toURBILLoN
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JAEGER-LeCoULtRE HYBRIS MECHANICA R
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JAEGER-LeCoULtRE MAStER GRANDE tRAD
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pARMIGIANI tECNICA CHRoNo - REF. pF
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ULYSSE NARDIN “GENGHIS KHAN HAUtE
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ULYSSE NARDIN pLANEt EARtH - REF. 9
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VACHERoN CoNStANtIN pAtRIMoNY tRADI
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VACHERoN CoNStANtIN pAtRIMoNY tRADI
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VACHERoN CoNStANtIN QUAI DE L’ILE
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The tourbillon is one of Abraham-Lo
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“Haute horology must open up to t
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Are you planning to work with other
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Tourbillons 151 •
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But you’ve announced the opening
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Bell & Ross CEO Carlos Rosillo says
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“I’m sure there are some who as
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What was your professional backgrou
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How far have you progressed in the
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Richard Mille, RM 017 Extra Flat To
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THE TOURBILLON CRAzE Since the turn
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FLOATING ISLAND Other brands go eve
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Breguet, Marine Tourbillon Chronogr
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On the Tourbillon 24 Seconds Inclin
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A FLURRY OF TOURBILLONS Another tec
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Tourbillons 175 •
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AUDEMARS PIGUET JULES AUDEMARS MINU
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BELL & ROSS BR 01 INSTRUMENT TOURBI
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BELL & ROSS BR 01 INSTRUMENT TOURBI
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BELL & ROSS INSTRUMENT BR MINUTEUR
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BREGUET FUSEE TOURBILLON - REF. 704
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BVLGARI TOURBILLON LUMIERE - REF. B
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CHANEL J12 RETROGRADE MYSTERIEUSE -
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DEWITT TWENTY-8-EIGHT REGULATOR A.S
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FRANCK MULLER TOURBILLON CURVEX POW
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FRéDéRIQUE CONSTANT TOURBILLON MA
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GUY ELLIA TOURBILLON ZEPHYR With a
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GUY ELLIA TOURBILLON MAGISTERE II G
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HUBLOT KING GOLD CERAMIC TOURBILLON
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IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN PORTUGUESE TOURBIL
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JACOB & CO CRYSTAL TOURBILLON - REF
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JACOB & CO RAINBOW TOURBILLON - REF
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JAEGER-LeCOULTRE MASTER TOURBILLON
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PANERAI RADIOMIR TOURBILLON GMT - R
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PARMIGIANI KALPA XL TOURBILLON - RE
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PARMIGIANI TONDA 42 TOURBILLON - RE
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PIAGET ALTIPLANO TOURBILLON GOUSSET
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PIAGET PIAGET EMPERADOR SKELETON TO
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PIAGET PIAGET EMPERADOR TOURBILLON
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PIAGET PIAGET POLO TOURBILLON RELAT
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PIAGET PIAGET POLO TOURBILLON RELAT
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REBELLION REB-5 TOURBILLON ROSE GOL
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RICHARD MILLE RM 020 TOURBILLON POC
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RICHARD MILLE RM 026 TOURBILLON The
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ROGER DUBUIS EXCALIBUR AUTOMATIC TO
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STÜHRLING ORIGINAL APOCALYPSE REVE
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ULYSSE NARDIN FREAK DIAVOLO - REF.
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ULYSSE NARDIN ROYAL BLUE - REF. 799
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN MALTE TOURBILLO
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ZENITH EL PRIMERO TOURBILLON - REF.
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While the striking mechanism is the
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CoMMeMoRaTIVe WaTCHeS 1969 also saw
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Chopard has recently unveiled a col
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Montblanc, Nicolas Rieussec Open Da
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SINGLe CouNTeRS IN THe LIMeLIGHT In
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6 H>C;JC8I>DC EJH=:G L]^aZ dc i]Z i
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Chronographs, Split-Seconds and fly
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The brand from Saxony, Germany has
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and speaking of countdowns, the Ger
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A. LANGE & SÖHNE dOUbLE SPLit - RE
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AUdEMARS PiGUEt ROyAL OAk OFFSHORE
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VLGARi OCtO CHRONOGRAPHE QUAdRi-REt
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GLASHÜttE ORiGiNAL SENAtOR RAttRAP
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HARRy WiNStON OCEAN tRiPLE REtROGRA
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iWC SCHAFFHAUSEN dA ViNCi CHRONOGRA
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iWC SCHAFFHAUSEN PiLOt’S WAtCH CH
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iWC SCHAFFHAUSEN PORtUGUESE yACHt C
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JAEGER-LeCOULtRE dUOMEtRE A CHRONOG
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LONGiNES tHE LONGiNES COLUMN-WHEEL
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PANERAi LUMiNOR 1950 8 dAyS RAttRAP
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PANERAi LUMiNOR 1950 RAttRAPANtE, 4
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PANERAi RAdiOMiR CHRONOGRAPH - REF.
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PAtEk PHiLiPPE SPLit-SECONdS CHRONO
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PiAGEt LiMELiGHt EXCEPtiONAL PiECE
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PiAGEt PiAGEt POLO CHRONOGRAPH iN P
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PiAGEt PiAGEt POLO FORtyFiVE - REF.
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RiCHARd MiLLE RM 025 tOURbiLLON CHR
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tAG HEUER 1916: tHE MikROGRAPH The
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tAG HEUER 1965: CARRERA dAtE 45 Aft
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tAG HEUER 2006: tHE CARRERA CALibRE
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tAG HEUER 2007: GRANd CARRERA CALib
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tAG HEUER 2010: tAG HEUER MONACO V4
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tAG HEUER 2011: tAG HEUER CARRERA M
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ULySSE NARdiN MAXi MARiNE CHRONOGRA
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ULySSE NARdiN MAXi MARiNE diVER CHR
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VACHERON CONStANtiN OVERSEAS CHRONO
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zENitH EL PRiMERO RAttRAPANtE - REF
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Before time was divided into 24 tim
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“We are convinced that there is a
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The pure dial adorned with a vertic
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Jaeger-LeCoultre, Reverso Squadra W
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POINTER-TyPE SySTEM The simplest wa
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Another potential choice is to disp
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DISCS AND WINDOWS Multiple time zon
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AND TIME BECAME UNIVERSAL In 1936,
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AUDEMARS pIGUET JULES AUDEMARS DUAL
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BVLGARI DIAGONO X-pRO - REF. Dp45BS
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de GRISOGONO FUSO QUADRATO N°2 CLO
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de GRISOGONO MECCANICO ROSE GOLD de
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DEWITT THE TRIpLE COMpLICATION-GMT
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HARRY WINSTON OCEAN TOURBILLON GMT
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pANERAI LUMINOR 1950 8 DAYS GMT - R
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pIAGET pIAGET ALTIpLANO DOUBLE JEU
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pIAGET pIAGET EMpERADOR COUSSIN pER
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RICHARD MILLE RM 022 TOURBILLON AER
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ULYSSE NARDIN DUAL TIME - REF. 243-
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ULYSSE NARDIN EXECUTIVE DUAL TIME -
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ULYSSE NARDIN EXECUTIVE LADY - REF.
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN MALTE DUAL TIME
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN OVERSEAS DUAL T
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The choice of the direction in whic
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“We are the very opposite of a fa
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What is your target clientele? Chan
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Chanel, J12 Retrograde Mysterieuse
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A STUNNING VISION The dance of the
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6
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For the Opus 8 by Harry Winston, Fr
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A>C:6G 9>HEA6NH I]Z aViZhi igZcY! X
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AUdEMARS pIGUET jULES AUdEMARS SKEL
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BVLGARI OcTO BI-RETRO - REF. BGO43B
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cHANEL j12 RETROGRAdE MYSTERIEUSE -
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LONGINES THE LONGINES MASTER cOLLEc
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pIAGET pIAGET EMpERAdOR cOUSSIN pER
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pIAGET pIAGET REcTANGLE A L’ANcIE
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ROGER DUBUIS EXCALIBUR DOUBLE TOURB
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VAcHERON cONSTANTIN pATRIMONY cONTE
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Human time is not the same as that
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Never-eNdiNg story the equation of
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6jYZbVgh E^\jZi Vahd X]dhZ id ^cY^X
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Equations of Time 403 •
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BLANCPAIN VILLERET EQUATION MARCHAN
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PANERAI LUMINOR 1950 EQUATION OF TI
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The audible indication of the time
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“The watch industry is experienci
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How about Jaquet Droz, which you ar
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Christophe Claret CEO of Christophe
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=dlZkZg! ^c jckZ^a^c\ ]^h ]dgdad\^X
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Guy Ellia, Répétition Minute Zeph
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LIKE A MUSICAL INSTRUMENT In the 20
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The Challenge RMT-S by the Geneva-b
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I]^h ineZ d[ Y^heaVn ^h eVgi^XjaVga
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THE ULTIMATE SOUND EXPERIENCE Undou
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Finally, an all too rare phenomenon
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AudEMARS pIGuET MILLENARY HANd-WouN
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BLANCPAIN CARROUSEL REPETITION MINU
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BVLGARI oCTo REpETITIoN MINuTES RET
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de GRISoGoNo oCCHIo RIpETIZIoNE MIN
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de GRISoGoNo oCCHIo RIpETIZIoNE MIN
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GuY ELLIA REpETITIoN MINuTE ZEpHYR
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IWC SCHAFFHAuSEN poRTuGuESE MINuTE
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pARMIGIANI ToRIC QuAESToR SKELEToN
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uLYSSE NARdIN CIRCuS - REF. 740-88
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uLYSSE NARdIN GENGHIS KHAN - REF. 7
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uLYSSE NARdIN SAFARI - REF. 729-61
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The moonphase is doubtless the most
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A wINDow oN ThE STARS In western ci
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MooNSTRuCk Another notable current
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A STARRING RoLE Alongside apertures
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=# BdhZg 8^Z ! BdhZg EZgeZijVa Bddc
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BVLGARI GRANDE LUNE - REF. BRRP46C1
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HARRY WINSTON LADY Z - REF. 400/UAM
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PIAGET PIAGET EMPERADOR COUSSIN MOO
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN KALLA LUNE - RE
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN TOLEDO 1952 - R
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Since the development of nautical s
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AN oySTER oN ThE WRIST Rolex named
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Its 2010 version is housed in a DLC
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6bdc\ Y^kZghÉ lViX]Zh! i]ZgZ VgZ b
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Luminox, Deep Dive Diving 481 •
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HARRY WInSTOn OCEAn DIVER - REF. 41
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IWC SCHAFFHAUSEn AQUATIMER DEEP TWO
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PAnERAI LUMInOR 1950 SUBMERSIBLE DE
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ZEnITH DEFY XTREME SEA OPEn Cased i
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Measuring the passing of time is no
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Alarms 493 •
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sTrIkInG InnoVATIons Jaeger-leCoult
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since then other brands have follow
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UnDerWATer soUnDs We are also seein
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BREGUET REVEIL MUsICAL - REF. 7800B
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JAEGER-LeCOULTRE MAsTER MEMOVOX INT
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