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The decade that followed would bring him recognition and a high-end clientele. In 1999, Claret acquired an old manor, le Soleil d’Or (the Golden Sun) in Le Locle. It was the start of a new era: in the next two years, the number of clients exploded, and the staff expanded from 17 to 62. Feeling cramped, the Manufacture Christophe Claret constructed an annex of 500 square meters (5,380 square feet) in 2002, followed by a second of the same size in 2004. Equipped with an expansive and state-of-the-art fleet of machinery, the manufacture, which today employs around 90 people, produces almost all of its movements’ components, as well as most of the casing elements. Among the company’s twenty-odd clients are Maitres du Temps, Jean Dunand, Ellicott and Harry Winston. For these brands, the manufacture continues to provide and perfect calibers that are among the most complicated in the world. Few brands will own up to using outside suppliers to create their most complex models; this is why, outside a small circle of connoisseurs, the name of Christophe Claret is little known to the larger public. However, from the minute repeater, the first complication developed by the watchmaker, to the orbital tourbillon and a perpetual calendar with roller displays, the manufacture is one of the most innovative and high-performance companies in the watch industry. In 2009, the Christophe Claret manufacture celebrated 20 years of service to luxury watch brands. As a nod towards them, the watchmaker created for the very first time a complete watch, a life-size showcase for his abilities. A commemorative timekeeper that is both provocative and without equivalent, the DualTow is by definition available in a limited edition: 68 pieces, all different and thus all unique. The major innovation resides in a patented single-pusher chronograph that functions thanks to three planetary gears, each one with the same structure. But Christophe Claret has chosen to further refine the caliber by adding a striking mechanism that marks the start, stop and reset of the chronograph. An example of the manufacture’s expertise in chiming and musical movements, the watch possesses exceptional acoustics. The snail-shaped gong-ring is one of the most accomplished and difficult to perfect. • 416 Grand Complications, Vol. VII Carefully working each detail, the watchmaker and his team set the finishing touch to the movement by endowing it with a chronograph function. This way, the wearer can follow its state of functioning from moment to moment. Playing on an effect of perfect symmetry, the mechanism presents the hour and minute counters on a bridge that also plays the role of a sapphire crystal dial. Respectively positioned at 11 and 1 o’clock, they complement the central seconds hand. This extremely forceful and technical stage-setting frees up enough space to reveal the entire system driving the chronograph at 12 o’clock, and a one-minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock. Finally, two notched belt-type displays, specially developed for Christophe Claret and placed on either side of the watch are driven by cylinders placed at each end. They respectively indicate the hours and the minutes in five-minute increments.
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the original annual of the world’
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PIAGET EMPERADOR COUSSIN Piaget Man
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PIAGET EMPERADOR Piaget Manufacture
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NEW YORK, NEW YORK A New York City
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HANDLE WITH CARE To maintain the be
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www.chanel.com
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WK RI 6HSWHPEHU ,Q WKH RIILFHV RI W
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CALIBER RM 017 EXTRA FLAT TOURBILLO
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The future’s safe. IWC. The futur
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21 •
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Time Space Quantième Perpétuel (G
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UNICO GOLD ! "& '. ) "* +! ")*+ '$,
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• 28 Grand Complications, Vol. VI
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• From day one, Westime has also
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• Summary Letter from the Preside
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ONLY ONE WATCH MANUFACTURE Our coll
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• Web Site Directory A. LAnge & S
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BR INSTRUMENT MINUTEUR TOURBILLON .
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www.jacobandco.com 4(%15%.44). 2EVO
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HERITAGE IN THE MAKING WWW.PARMIGIA
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Index IWC SChAFFAUSen AQUATIMER AUT
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Limited Edition of 177 pieces www.d
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EXCALIBUR RD01SQ - SKELETON DOUBLE
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Over the years, Longines has dedica
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REPETITION MINUTE © =(3+
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ClOSe-up On Calendar WaTCHeS Hours,
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It was on this double month-and-yea
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They were divided into three ten-da
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how does it work? The simple calend
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10 6 8 10. iwC, Portuguese Tourbill
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7 4 5 8 6 6. Jaquet droz, Grande Da
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1. rolex, Oyster Perpetual Day-Date
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1. Girard-Perregaux, Vintage 1945 S
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1 1. iwC, Da Vinci Perpetual Calend
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6 Calendars 77 •
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4 5 1. vacheron Constantin, Patrimo
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6. de Grisogono, Instrumento Novant
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2 Calendars 83 •
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A. LANGE & SÖHNE LANGEMATIK PERPET
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BLANCPAIN L-EVOLUTION SEMAINIER GRA
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GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SENATOR PERPETU
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GUY ELLIA TIME SPAcE QUANTIEME PERP
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IWc ScHAFFHAUSEN DA VINcI PERPETUAL
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IWc ScHAFFHAUSEN PORTUGUESE PERPETU
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PATEK PHILIPPE ANNUAL cALENDAR cHRO
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PIAGET PIAGET EMPERADOR cOUSSIN - R
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ROGER DUBUIS EXcALIBUR PERPETUAL cA
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ULYSSE NARDIN EL TORO - REF. 322-00
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VAcHERON cONSTANTIN PATRIMONY TRADI
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ZENITH AcADEMY QUANTIEME PERPETUEL
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For watchmaking purists, a “compl
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ECOrd-BrEAkInG pOCkET-wATCHES If th
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This complications record was beste
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A USEFUl Or prACTICAl COMplICATIOn
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A. LANGE & SÖHNE SAXoNIA ANNUAL CA
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BLANCPAIN L-EVOLUTION TOURBILLON GM
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FRANCK MULLER TOURBILLON 9850 EVOLU
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HARRY WINStoN MIDNIGHt CHRoNo toURB
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HUBLot LA CLE DU tEMpS - REF. Mp-02
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JAEGER-LeCoULtRE AMVoX3 toURBILLoN
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JAEGER-LeCoULtRE HYBRIS MECHANICA R
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JAEGER-LeCoULtRE MAStER GRANDE tRAD
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pARMIGIANI tECNICA CHRoNo - REF. pF
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ULYSSE NARDIN “GENGHIS KHAN HAUtE
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ULYSSE NARDIN pLANEt EARtH - REF. 9
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VACHERoN CoNStANtIN pAtRIMoNY tRADI
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VACHERoN CoNStANtIN pAtRIMoNY tRADI
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VACHERoN CoNStANtIN QUAI DE L’ILE
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The tourbillon is one of Abraham-Lo
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“Haute horology must open up to t
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Are you planning to work with other
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Tourbillons 151 •
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But you’ve announced the opening
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Bell & Ross CEO Carlos Rosillo says
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“I’m sure there are some who as
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What was your professional backgrou
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How far have you progressed in the
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Richard Mille, RM 017 Extra Flat To
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THE TOURBILLON CRAzE Since the turn
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FLOATING ISLAND Other brands go eve
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Breguet, Marine Tourbillon Chronogr
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On the Tourbillon 24 Seconds Inclin
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A FLURRY OF TOURBILLONS Another tec
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Tourbillons 175 •
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AUDEMARS PIGUET JULES AUDEMARS MINU
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BELL & ROSS BR 01 INSTRUMENT TOURBI
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BELL & ROSS BR 01 INSTRUMENT TOURBI
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BELL & ROSS INSTRUMENT BR MINUTEUR
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BREGUET FUSEE TOURBILLON - REF. 704
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BVLGARI TOURBILLON LUMIERE - REF. B
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CHANEL J12 RETROGRADE MYSTERIEUSE -
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DEWITT TWENTY-8-EIGHT REGULATOR A.S
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FRANCK MULLER TOURBILLON CURVEX POW
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FRéDéRIQUE CONSTANT TOURBILLON MA
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GUY ELLIA TOURBILLON ZEPHYR With a
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GUY ELLIA TOURBILLON MAGISTERE II G
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HUBLOT KING GOLD CERAMIC TOURBILLON
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IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN PORTUGUESE TOURBIL
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JACOB & CO CRYSTAL TOURBILLON - REF
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JACOB & CO RAINBOW TOURBILLON - REF
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JAEGER-LeCOULTRE MASTER TOURBILLON
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PANERAI RADIOMIR TOURBILLON GMT - R
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PARMIGIANI KALPA XL TOURBILLON - RE
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PARMIGIANI TONDA 42 TOURBILLON - RE
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PIAGET ALTIPLANO TOURBILLON GOUSSET
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PIAGET PIAGET EMPERADOR SKELETON TO
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PIAGET PIAGET EMPERADOR TOURBILLON
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PIAGET PIAGET POLO TOURBILLON RELAT
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PIAGET PIAGET POLO TOURBILLON RELAT
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REBELLION REB-5 TOURBILLON ROSE GOL
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RICHARD MILLE RM 020 TOURBILLON POC
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RICHARD MILLE RM 026 TOURBILLON The
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ROGER DUBUIS EXCALIBUR AUTOMATIC TO
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STÜHRLING ORIGINAL APOCALYPSE REVE
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ULYSSE NARDIN FREAK DIAVOLO - REF.
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ULYSSE NARDIN ROYAL BLUE - REF. 799
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN MALTE TOURBILLO
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ZENITH EL PRIMERO TOURBILLON - REF.
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While the striking mechanism is the
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CoMMeMoRaTIVe WaTCHeS 1969 also saw
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Chopard has recently unveiled a col
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Montblanc, Nicolas Rieussec Open Da
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SINGLe CouNTeRS IN THe LIMeLIGHT In
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6 H>C;JC8I>DC EJH=:G L]âZ dc i]Z i
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Chronographs, Split-Seconds and fly
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The brand from Saxony, Germany has
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and speaking of countdowns, the Ger
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A. LANGE & SÖHNE dOUbLE SPLit - RE
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AUdEMARS PiGUEt ROyAL OAk OFFSHORE
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VLGARi OCtO CHRONOGRAPHE QUAdRi-REt
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GLASHÜttE ORiGiNAL SENAtOR RAttRAP
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HARRy WiNStON OCEAN tRiPLE REtROGRA
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iWC SCHAFFHAUSEN dA ViNCi CHRONOGRA
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iWC SCHAFFHAUSEN PiLOt’S WAtCH CH
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iWC SCHAFFHAUSEN PORtUGUESE yACHt C
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JAEGER-LeCOULtRE dUOMEtRE A CHRONOG
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LONGiNES tHE LONGiNES COLUMN-WHEEL
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PANERAi LUMiNOR 1950 8 dAyS RAttRAP
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PANERAi LUMiNOR 1950 RAttRAPANtE, 4
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PANERAi RAdiOMiR CHRONOGRAPH - REF.
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PAtEk PHiLiPPE SPLit-SECONdS CHRONO
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PiAGEt LiMELiGHt EXCEPtiONAL PiECE
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PiAGEt PiAGEt POLO CHRONOGRAPH iN P
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PiAGEt PiAGEt POLO FORtyFiVE - REF.
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RiCHARd MiLLE RM 025 tOURbiLLON CHR
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tAG HEUER 1916: tHE MikROGRAPH The
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tAG HEUER 1965: CARRERA dAtE 45 Aft
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tAG HEUER 2006: tHE CARRERA CALibRE
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tAG HEUER 2007: GRANd CARRERA CALib
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tAG HEUER 2010: tAG HEUER MONACO V4
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tAG HEUER 2011: tAG HEUER CARRERA M
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ULySSE NARdiN MAXi MARiNE CHRONOGRA
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ULySSE NARdiN MAXi MARiNE diVER CHR
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VACHERON CONStANtiN OVERSEAS CHRONO
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zENitH EL PRiMERO RAttRAPANtE - REF
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Before time was divided into 24 tim
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“We are convinced that there is a
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The pure dial adorned with a vertic
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Jaeger-LeCoultre, Reverso Squadra W
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POINTER-TyPE SySTEM The simplest wa
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Another potential choice is to disp
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DISCS AND WINDOWS Multiple time zon
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AND TIME BECAME UNIVERSAL In 1936,
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AUDEMARS pIGUET JULES AUDEMARS DUAL
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BVLGARI DIAGONO X-pRO - REF. Dp45BS
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de GRISOGONO FUSO QUADRATO N°2 CLO
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de GRISOGONO MECCANICO ROSE GOLD de
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DEWITT THE TRIpLE COMpLICATION-GMT
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HARRY WINSTON OCEAN TOURBILLON GMT
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pANERAI LUMINOR 1950 8 DAYS GMT - R
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pIAGET pIAGET ALTIpLANO DOUBLE JEU
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pIAGET pIAGET EMpERADOR COUSSIN pER
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RICHARD MILLE RM 022 TOURBILLON AER
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ULYSSE NARDIN DUAL TIME - REF. 243-
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ULYSSE NARDIN EXECUTIVE DUAL TIME -
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ULYSSE NARDIN EXECUTIVE LADY - REF.
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN MALTE DUAL TIME
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN OVERSEAS DUAL T
Page 367 and 368: The choice of the direction in whic
Page 369 and 370: “We are the very opposite of a fa
Page 371 and 372: What is your target clientele? Chan
Page 373 and 374: Chanel, J12 Retrograde Mysterieuse
Page 375 and 376: A STUNNING VISION The dance of the
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Page 379 and 380: For the Opus 8 by Harry Winston, Fr
Page 381 and 382: A>C:6G 9>HEA6NH I]Z aViZhi igZcY! X
Page 383 and 384: AUdEMARS pIGUET jULES AUdEMARS SKEL
Page 385 and 386: BVLGARI OcTO BI-RETRO - REF. BGO43B
Page 387 and 388: cHANEL j12 RETROGRAdE MYSTERIEUSE -
Page 389 and 390: LONGINES THE LONGINES MASTER cOLLEc
Page 391 and 392: pIAGET pIAGET EMpERAdOR cOUSSIN pER
Page 393 and 394: pIAGET pIAGET REcTANGLE A L’ANcIE
Page 395 and 396: ROGER DUBUIS EXCALIBUR DOUBLE TOURB
Page 397 and 398: VAcHERON cONSTANTIN pATRIMONY cONTE
Page 399 and 400: Human time is not the same as that
Page 401 and 402: Never-eNdiNg story the equation of
Page 403 and 404: 6jYZbVgh E^\jZi Vahd X]dhZ id ^cY^X
Page 405 and 406: Equations of Time 403 •
Page 407 and 408: BLANCPAIN VILLERET EQUATION MARCHAN
Page 409 and 410: PANERAI LUMINOR 1950 EQUATION OF TI
Page 411 and 412: The audible indication of the time
Page 413 and 414: “The watch industry is experienci
Page 415 and 416: How about Jaquet Droz, which you ar
Page 417: Christophe Claret CEO of Christophe
Page 421 and 422: Guy Ellia, Répétition Minute Zeph
Page 423 and 424: LIKE A MUSICAL INSTRUMENT In the 20
Page 425 and 426: The Challenge RMT-S by the Geneva-b
Page 427 and 428: I]^h ineZ d[ Y^heaVn ^h eVgi^XjaVga
Page 429 and 430: THE ULTIMATE SOUND EXPERIENCE Undou
Page 431 and 432: Finally, an all too rare phenomenon
Page 433 and 434: AudEMARS pIGuET MILLENARY HANd-WouN
Page 435 and 436: BLANCPAIN CARROUSEL REPETITION MINU
Page 437 and 438: BVLGARI oCTo REpETITIoN MINuTES RET
Page 439 and 440: de GRISoGoNo oCCHIo RIpETIZIoNE MIN
Page 441 and 442: de GRISoGoNo oCCHIo RIpETIZIoNE MIN
Page 443 and 444: GuY ELLIA REpETITIoN MINuTE ZEpHYR
Page 445 and 446: IWC SCHAFFHAuSEN poRTuGuESE MINuTE
Page 447 and 448: pARMIGIANI ToRIC QuAESToR SKELEToN
Page 449 and 450: uLYSSE NARdIN CIRCuS - REF. 740-88
Page 451 and 452: uLYSSE NARdIN GENGHIS KHAN - REF. 7
Page 453 and 454: uLYSSE NARdIN SAFARI - REF. 729-61
Page 455 and 456: The moonphase is doubtless the most
Page 457 and 458: A wINDow oN ThE STARS In western ci
Page 459 and 460: MooNSTRuCk Another notable current
Page 461 and 462: A STARRING RoLE Alongside apertures
Page 463 and 464: =# BdhZg 8^Z ! BdhZg EZgeZijVa Bddc
Page 465 and 466: BVLGARI GRANDE LUNE - REF. BRRP46C1
Page 467 and 468: HARRY WINSTON LADY Z - REF. 400/UAM
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PIAGET PIAGET EMPERADOR COUSSIN MOO
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN KALLA LUNE - RE
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN TOLEDO 1952 - R
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Since the development of nautical s
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AN oySTER oN ThE WRIST Rolex named
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Its 2010 version is housed in a DLC
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Luminox, Deep Dive Diving 481 •
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HARRY WInSTOn OCEAn DIVER - REF. 41
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IWC SCHAFFHAUSEn AQUATIMER DEEP TWO
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PAnERAI LUMInOR 1950 SUBMERSIBLE DE
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ZEnITH DEFY XTREME SEA OPEn Cased i
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Measuring the passing of time is no
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Alarms 493 •
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sTrIkInG InnoVATIons Jaeger-leCoult
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since then other brands have follow
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UnDerWATer soUnDs We are also seein
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BREGUET REVEIL MUsICAL - REF. 7800B
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JAEGER-LeCOULTRE MAsTER MEMOVOX INT
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