WE Smile Magazine November 2015

When I first heard of the Four Seasons
Tented Camp Golden Triangle, I thought of
the latest ‘Glamping’ (Glamorous-Camping)
trend, used mainly by people who identify
themselves as ‘Gypset’ (Jetset Gypsies).
But in reality, this resort will soon reach its
tenth year, yet the magic of these dreamy
tented camps transcends fads and rises
straight into timelessness.
One aspect that may contribute to
this, is the exclusivity. The location alone
is nearly as far north in Thailand as you
can go—next to the Ruak river, right on
the notorious Golden Triangle where three
countries meet—and where decades
ago, these same countries clashed in a
deadly opium trade. The resort overlooks
neighboring Myanmar, and you may hear
the chanting of Burmese monks early in
the morning, making it nearly impossible
to imagine a time when this area was
more a war zone than the tranquil
bamboo jungle it is now.
The air-conditioned tents are much
sturdier than they seem. There are fifteen
tents in total, each decorated accordingly
with themes such as butterflies, bird
watching or beads. Occasionally, a tap on
the door breaks the silence, but it’s only
to deliver fresh pineapples and tamarind
candy. These are best enjoyed either from
the comfort of your in-tent bathtub or the
terrace that overlooks elephant territory.
“There are no televisions or radios
to disturb the wildlife,” says Mr Alvin
Tham the Assistant Camp Manager, “but
we have plenty of other activities for the
guests.” One such engaging activity is the
open-air spa, perched among treetops
overlooking a lush jungle ravine. There is
no spa lobby, no music, and nothing to
distract you except for the jaw-dropping
view. Perhaps the most famous programmes
centre around the elephants. From morning
bathing rituals where they playfully
trumpet to breakfast feedings. But the
reason many visitors decide to experience
the camp is to become a mahout. Here,
you don’t train the elephant but instead
the elephant trains you. Everyone is
assigned their own elephant, and mine
was the beautiful ‘Phouang Phet’, who
under my completely unbiased opinion, is
the best of all the elephants in the world.
“I was Phouang Phet’s mahout, she was
the first elephant in the camp,” says
Mr. Seng, “She used to walk the streets
waiting for tourists to buy sugar-cane to
feed her, sugar-cane is still her favourite,
but she can have as much as she wants
anytime now.”
There are no chains during training,
no circus tricks, and respect for the
animals is stressed from beginning
to end. The option to bathe with your
2.5-tonne trainer in the river is not to
be missed. Even people who dislike
water are often swayed by seeing their
assigned elephant’s excitement to frolic
in the rushing stream. “It’s truly a special
place,” says Camp Manager Mr Reza
Jafari, “When I first heard I was coming
here I thought, ‘The Jungle? Did I do
something wrong?’ but then I arrived
and it was good. Very good. We have an
amazing team, and it’s wonderful to see
happy elephants every day.”
As I left the camp, I was blessed for a
safe journey with a parting ceremony.
I took a long breath of that unique fresh
air, cooled by the rain and perfumed
with wild ginger flowers. Time has made
the Golden Triangle a symbol of renewal.
The forest reclaimed fields of opium, the
elephants are reclaiming their roaming
grounds, and even the rivers are locked in
an endless cycle of give and take. Anyone
who has been here longs to come back,
and no doubt, I will find myself here again.
The Four Seasons Tented Camp
Golden Triangle is best visited in the
cool dry months from November to
February, making this an ideal spot for
the winter holidays. (fourseasons.com/
goldentriangle)
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