DRS2012 Bangkok Proceedings Vol 4 - Design Research Society

Shoe Design Requirements for the Physically Disabled Women
Square or rounded toe caps which continue rounded while walking should be used. In
order to project shoes with wing tips, the manufacturer should exaggerate creating
tapered wing tips which become gradually narrowed from the first phalanx of the big toe
(picture 3).
Picture 3: Ergonomic and aesthetic wing tips in an Oxford model. Picture 4: Shoes look alike.
Source: Roncoletta (2009)
Lines and shapes
The interviewees’ desire is to make both shoes look alike. The original aesthetic lines of
the shoes should be followed to cause harmony and flow so that neither shoes contrast
with each other. In picture 4 the spaces of the front sole in the original model have been
kept by an interviewee in the sole compensation to cause a feeling of continuity, thus,
flow.
Materials e Stitches
The outer materials, as their stitches are associated directly with the shoe looks;
aesthetic and symbolic aspects of the design. Shoes covered with prime materials such
as organic leather, satin, etc. are considered sophisticated and elegant by the
interviewees. The materials must match the shape of the shoes in order to keep this
symbolic aspect.
Sole - inner_________________________________________________
The analysis criteria of the inner sole correspond to the lower part of the shoes and also
responsible for its technical quality.
Heels and toe caps
The heels must touch the ground completely regardless of the heel height, being aligned
with the foot. The balance axis of the body between the hips, knee and ankle must be
prolonged through the shoe. If the heel touches the ground just partially, it will probably
alter the natural axis of the wearer’s body, making them feel unbalanced, and insecure.
The ideal heel height is 2 cm because it distributes equally the weight between the toes
and the heel. The distribution on the table below should be observed. The height of the
toe caps must keep a distance of around 1 cm from the ground.
Classification Less Pleasant Pleasant Bearable Unpleasant Terrible
Heel height 0 cm 2 cm 4 cm 6 cm 10 cm
Pressure
toes
43%
hell
57%
toes
50%
hell
50%
toes
57%
hell
43%
toes
75%
hell
25%
toes
90%
hell
10%
Table 3: Pressure
Source: IBTeC (2007)
Molding sole
Sturdy platforms, wedge shoes or even flat heels should allow wearers to move their feet.
Sturdy structures usually do not allow natural feet movement. Also, the very soft molding
7
Conference Proceedings 1611